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Is that splice so all front frame pieces could remain the same and then they could make any wheelbase rear sections plus the option of the straight rails for the commercial trucks?
Yes.
And the splice can render the frame more readily repairable in the event of a front end collision. Ford used to market this splice and frame repairability as a feature and benefit in dealer salesperson training guides.
wonder if you can take that 05 up splice and replace the front splice of a 00 to get the coil front suspension and front header with sheetmetal to makeit look and ride like a newerone.
wonder if you can take that 05 up splice and replace the front splice of a 00 to get the coil front suspension and front header with sheetmetal to makeit look and ride like a newerone.
That is exactly what DeStroked450 did, as he already described up thread.
My axles are finally installed. They ended up not using the donor MC, mainly because they couldn't find where they put it. One thing that we ran into and I am not sure if this is different since I have a 6.0 but the trans cooler lines are in the way where the steering damper shock bracket mounts to the cross member. The easiest solution in my mind to this is to just remove the stock damper and replace it with a dual steering stabilizer kit, which I planned to do since I am looking to run 35's.
I will say it rides a lot better and definitely turns sharper. I didn't notice a ton of difference on the brakes, this could be in part to the rust on the rotors so I might end up replacing those in the near future.
I went with axles out of a 2006 F250. Front has a level kit and now my rear is sitting about 1.5 inches lower than the front. I plan to do some mods on the springs but need to figure out how I will retain my airbags. Wheels are tires will change once I get the 2015 clip done, it heads in for that next week.
Great news! I do not have trans cooler lines there on my 7.3, so it is likely a 6.uh-oh thing. The truck looks good in the pics. Sorry they lost your newer MC. I have one somewhere if you want to switch to one later. You really should have the larger MC to go with the larger pistons/calipers.
For the sake of others that read this thread (so they can do this mod), do you mind sharing what it cost you to have this done?
Great news! I do not have trans cooler lines there on my 7.3, so it is likely a 6.uh-oh thing. The truck looks good in the pics. Sorry they lost your newer MC. I have one somewhere if you want to switch to one later. You really should have the larger MC to go with the larger pistons/calipers.
For the sake of others that read this thread (so they can do this mod), do you mind sharing what it cost you to have this done?
I found the MC at their shop when I picked up the X. He said he would swap it out if I want. The trans lines must be a 6.0 thing.
Costs are are as follows: donor axles front and rear with new seals, calipers, rotors, ball joints, brakes and level kit, master cylinder. Front driveline. Rear leafs, redhead steering box, newer front shocks, all hardware set me back $1950. That was me helping rip them out of the donor (5 hours). The shop charged me 27 hours for the install that included bolts, fluid change and a few odds and ends. I felt it was a little high but it is was it is. I bought new radius arm mounts and new coil buckets $550. The temp wheels and tires on it now we’re $150. They will be replaced once the 2015 front clip goes on.
I still need to pick up a dual stabilizer kit which is about $170.
Mike how much did you get out of your stock axles?
Transmission lines go through that area on most of the SD's, lines for my ZF6 go thru there but run under the stabilizer, but the rubber lines going up to that filter system is a 5R100 thing.
Transmission lines go through that area on most of the SD's, lines for my ZF6 go thru there but run under the stabilizer, but the rubber lines going up to that filter system is a 5R100 thing.
Ok that make sense. We still mounted the bracket and it works. The shock just rubs the lines a little bit when cranking the wheel. It also rubs the lower radiator hose a bit. The shock is pretty rusty and I am guessing it’s the original so rather than replace it I’ll put the duals on.
I sold mine last weekend for $1000 for the set. Axle had new brakes, rotors and ball joints installed 300 miles ago. I sold everything leaf's, shocks, mounts, track bar, sway bar basically anything that came off other than the wheels, tires and steering box.
Mike my wife was also like were not running a junk yard here get rid of those things!!
Getting ready to tear into my rear axle to prep it for install into the truck. The Axles I am going to be using are 2008 F-350 Axels with the 2008 rear leafs. The plan of action for the rear is: Degrease and Pressure wash, New Brake lines, Calipers (They are rusted to crap), new rotors (Rusted to crap as well), pull the cover, change gear oil and inspect, replace pinion seal (It looks like it was leaking pretty good), remove the welded on shock mounts due to wrong location (one in front / one in rear truck setup).
4 questions:
1: Should I shave off both rear shock mounts and use the bolt on "U-bolt" style shock mounts from my original axle? That way they are adjustable once the Axle is installed? the location of the 2008 seems to be slightly different than the 2001 even in the rear position.
2: When using the 2008 axles, what pinion yoke should be utilized? That way I can put the correct one on when I go to do the pinion seal.
3: Recommendations on Axel paint that will be durable and easy to repair?
4: Anything I'm missing?
Also? This is going to be going in under a 2001 I will try to document my findings on doing a 2wd to 4wd conversion suspension wise here and what all will be needed.
The 2008 rear springs are longer then 99-07 springs, I suppose you could move your hangers back or get a set from PMF, the problem I foresee is clearance with the HVAC lines. '08 Spring Hanger Conversion for '99-07
ubolt shock mounts have a location pin underneath them to keep from rotating so you will likely need to weld yours on if you are moving the location. use the yoke that matches your driveline would be easiest. I use ruestoleum satin black,
I listed some paints I used further back in the thread. They are holding up very well down here in the south.
I agree you should weld the brackets on.
I would use the yoke from the 08, and update your 01 driveshaft with the newer 08 drive shaft end to match up. I retro-fitted my 01 yoke to the 07 rear end, and I would do it the other way around if I could do it again.
Pirate - I will look into the rear A/C lines. I am planning on moving the front spring mount further forward. I will have to look closer on the passenger side to see whats over there.
Pirate/Nicmike - Roger that on the shock mounts. I forgot that you posted about the nipples on the axle to keep them from rotating and positioning them. It will be much easier to cut the forward shock mount off, make a quick fixture for aligning them and weld if back on. Has anyone taken any measurements on the welded on location of the shock mounts of the 08 to the previous years? Just trying to avoid having to modify anything when I get the axel under the truck or having to pull it back out and adjust.
Nicmike - Thanks for the heads up on the yoke. I think I remember reading that my 08 under the 01 will require driveshaft modification anyway. I will also go back and do some reading on your paint review.
