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You will find the new bolts are 9/16". The old ones and the holes are NOT.
You can start with a step bit, but you will need a full-length 9/16" bit to hollow out the guide pin welded inside the frame rail.
You can see the guide/roll pin in there. It has to be hollowed out a bit before the bolts can pass through. I used the step bit on each side, then I ran the 9/16" bit through. Hold onto your drill tight, and watch out for the bit catching on the pin. It could easily hurt your wrist.
Here the step bit has been used on each side, but the guide pin is still not wide enough inside. Run the 9/16 through it.
Once the holes are wallowed out, get your RED thread locker ready. It took me 10 minutes to wallow them out. Put the thread locker on the first 5 threads only.
Installed to the rail. All hooked up.
View from the top. I like my "blackhead" look.
Hook up the upper two lines. The one in the rear is your newer line from the donor.
Make sure you re-use the S clip to bind the lines together behind the gear box.
When attaching the fittings to the gear box, hook up the donor line first and tighten it down. Then hook up the original line from the cooler to the upper hose fitting. You are done with the gear box!
Not much to say about the steering damper bracket. It bolted right up, and it did not interfere with the vacuum and brake lines.
Get your track bar bracket and hardware together.
They look pretty for now...
There is only one bolt that will fit at this point. It is enough to hold the bracket on so you can mark the others.
Use one of the bolts and nuts from the frame rail to hold it on.
Then start marking your spots for new holes.
Bring out the centering punch.
And start marking away...
I used a 1/8 drill bit for a pilot hole. When it started to break through on the first hole, it snapped off in the hole. Grrrrrrrr....
I moved on to the next hole. I'll have to come back and deal with the broken bit later. What a pain...
Marked...
...and drilled. Not as exact as I would have liked, but these were not easy to drill due to interference from other objects in the way. My right angle drill is kaput, and I have not bought another just yet. You sure need one for these two holes.
The group of three on the cross member. These and the bracket DID NOT interfere with the brake line and vacuum line, either. The brake line an vacuum line stay on the front where they are.
With exception of the hole with the broken bit in it, it is all done.
The other frame rail bolt I succeeded in getting in.
At this point, I had to depart for work. I had to call it a day, but I did spray the frame rail and bolts with some rubberized undercoating I got. Passenger side...
Driver side...
Really, really like how this stuff went on. I also sprayed it on my work platform to see if it will stick to the wood.
Flyboy, if you follow the vacuum line from the canister to the solenoid, you can cap that line and remove everything after the solenoid. You will likely set a code in the computer when the solenoid does not pass self test, but you can ignore it.
Still cold, but I braved the elements and got the coil buckets installed. I had 1.5 hrs before leaving for work, and decided to go for it. Got them done with 15 minutes to spare.
I used an 11/64 bit for the pilot hole this time after the 1/8 broke off on me last time. Chase the 11/64 with a 7/16 bit, and you are done.
6 of the 7 holes are already there. You only need to drill the one hole on each side.
Passenger side done...
...back side
On the driver side, this bracket has to lay OVER the coil bucket. Take the 3 bolts loose on the track bar bracket cross member location, and remove the two on the frame rail completely.
Go ahead and bend your brake line and vacuum lines around to the area where the front of the bucket will be. You won't have room to reach back there after you install the bucket. I had to push those 2 power steering lines back about an inch to make room for the bucket.
Remove the bolt...
...loosen the triple bolt bracket.
You will need an inch or two of clearance to slide the bucket in between the frame rail and the track bar bracket.
The fit is perfect.
Like it was always there...
Driver side installed...
...back side.
Brake line and vacuum hose in place...or at least close.
Lines bent around to front of bucket on passenger side.
I'll have to tweak the brake lines a little more to get them to marry up to the stock brake lines that attach to the front of the coil buckets.
The fender liners will have to be trimmed for the buckets. I don't know how much yet, but I will take photos and document that as well. Looking at possibility of nice weather tomorrow, and hoping to finish this install tomorrow afternoon.
I love this thread. I have a 2002 f250 that I want to do the same to and I think I may have found a 2005 donor today!
Mike, at any point do you intend to determine if the later model rotors/calipers are a bolt on upgrade for the 05-07 axles? Also, the 05 chassis I found just has a steel cover on the rear diff. Did yours come with the aluminum cover? Sorry if I missed that somewhere.
Waylan, Pirate4x4 was going to look into the 13+ brake solution/work around. I have not had time, and I have not run across a wrecked 13+ in my salvage yard dealings yet. We will get to it soon I think.
If you want the 08+ aluminum cover, you will have to get an 08+ axle donor...or buy it. They are only about $65, and the bolts are around $25 for a full set of stainless.
I just did some digging on the internet on the 13+ brake question.
The bolts are the same part # between '07 and '13, which could be good news, or it could be nothing. The calipers and brackets have different part numbers, and the photos show them to be quite different. The true test of whether they will fit, will be the bolt spacing on the bracket. I would need a set of each to measure and compare. I will look for some soon after I complete the install.
'07 front bracket
'13 front bracket
Judging from the photos, I am thinking the spacing is different, and that means the ears on the knuckle are different.
'07 hub
'13 hub has different part number from '07
'07 knuckle
'13 knuckle
'07 knuckle
'13 knuckle
'07 knuckle
'13 knuckle
It is clear to me, from the photos, that you would have to purchase or salvage '13 knuckles to make this brake upgrade work for the front. New, they run $300-400 EACH. Not sure what you could get them for at salvage prices. I am guessing $50-100.
The jury is still out on the rears, though. Those brackets look like they might just have the same bolt pattern.
Mike, just curious as to why your moving the brake lines to the front of the spring bucket.
Edit: After looking back and finding the below photo on post 82 I realize there are a number of differences between your F-250/350 parts and my F-450/550 stuff.
I wouldn't have thought there would be such a big difference in the brake hoses and the way their mounted.
Sorry if I've caused any confusion with my post, I'll keep quit and continue to watch your excellent work.
Mike, just curious as to why your moving the brake lines to the front of the spring bucket.
Edit: After looking back and finding the below photo on post 82 I realize there are a number of differences between your F-250/350 parts and my F-450/550 stuff.
I wouldn't have thought there would be such a big difference in the brake hoses and the way their mounted.
Sorry if I've caused any confusion with my post, I'll keep quit and continue to watch your excellent work.
Non-sense. It has been nice to have you on board offering your input. Someone, somewhere will have an F450 that he wants to do this to, and your input will be valuable.
New coil buckets? Or those just nice rust free Texas parts?
Originally Posted by Nicmike
Exact same thing with mine as far as the right being much worse than the left. This has to be due to the condensation from the A/C lines dripping down on the coil bucket. Passenger side
Driver side
I still need to get a small wire brush in that gap to clean some more rust out before I paint these for install.
Cleaned up the welds. Paint was compromised on the welds on both sides. Make sure you repaint the welds before putting back on your truck. Extra thick on the passenger side since the A/C condensation drips on it...
Those bolts for the 05-07 steering box - are those factory bolts or are they the bolts from fastenal (part no. 11113744)?
I'd like to PM you but it won't let me since I'm new to the forum (is it possible for a membership to expire - I used to have a membership back in 2003ish). Is it possible for you to PM me your email address?
