I will leave it to Camo to comment on the planes of control on radius arms. Glad what I put together here is of service to you.

What power plant are you using in the M715?

 

Nah, no comment needed, already analyzed it. Stock Ford is better for my application. I don't even need the washers, as I am drilling every hole for the brackets. I also plan to use a Ford engine crossmeber to pick up the pan hard bar mounts.

This is where we step away from Fordville. Using a GM 8.1L to a 6 speed Allison to a divorced Ford 205.

And that's the end of my thread high jack .

Thanks again for all the info.

 

So dumb question:

18" rim minimum diameter to fit over these brakes?

Google fu is failing me here.

Or is that the later model brakes, that we're still waiting for Camo to figure out if we can adapt to these earlier gen SD Dana 60's?

 

im interested in a rear caliper redesign with older calipers that dont stick in the bores and wear pads uneven.

 

Grendel, it is a 17" minimum rim to clear your '05-'10 calipers.

 

Pefect info, thanks.

18" for the next generation of calipers? Did anyone find out how to go bigger in the brake dept?

I am not sure I need to, my new 2013-2016 rear e-locker axle just showed up. I think I am going 18" just to be safe. It does look like I could use the rear calipers on the front 2005 vintage abutments. They appear to be the same. It would mean the fronts are much larger. I am hunting for front 2013 abutments and calipers.

 

So I just took an early front (2005 caliper) and stuck it on the rear 2016 vintage axle.

 

Grendel

this guy is as close as we have over here to a proper salute, but you get my drift. lmao

cool project. :flipoff2

 

Does that mean I should use 2005 calipers on all four corners? Haven't heard about 2016 caliper issues. I bought this particular axle for the e-locker and 4.30 gears and it was low mileage.
Camo, you already replied on my facebook when I linked you and your pic for all the rebuild parts for the 2005 front axle

seems odd.

 

Thank you for the lead on these springs. I have a few questions that you may or may not know the answers.
There is a spring on the stock Ex pack that only goes forward that seems like a traction bar. Does that need to go on the new spring pack?

Removing the block also removes the bump stop. Should I fab a bracket for that or is it of no concern?

The 2 degree shims are to tilt the nose of the gear up? So I would install the shim with thick part towards the rear?

Thank you!
David

 

You get to lose the anti-wrap bar with those pro-comps, I believe.

The two degree shims are to replace the angle that was lost on the tapered block you are taking out. The stock block is tapered if you look closely. Yes, thick part to the rear.

I'm not sure on that bump stop... I'd think you wouldn't need it anymore.

 

the odds are you will not be driving your Ex in a manner that will put the spring at full compression and require the bump stop but I will suggest you incorporate it into your suspension anyhow, an unexpected adventure into a road side ditch or the urge to jump a curb is know to happen and the bump stop serves an important function.

Ford installed the anti_wrap bar when during initial product testing it was discovered in 4 low axle wrap was an issue in low traction situations like snow, sand or loose gravel
my experiance has been that removing the block eliminated the leverage which caused this and the anti_wrap leaf is not required.

Shims, It depends which drive shaft you have. with my rear non CV style shaft I need a 2* shim with the fat part forward to roll the pinion down. with a front and rear level stance this put the Transfer case output shaft and the rear pinion shaft within a 1/2* of parallel.

with a CV style shaft you are not wanting parallel you want the pinion shaft pointing straight inline with the driveshaft and that may require a 2 or 3* shim rolling the pinion UP or the fat part in the back.


recently somebody posted pics of their CV setup and no shims and the alignment "looked" good but I would still measure it when you get to that point.

 

I don't have the hardware for the track bar bracket....just wondering how you nut the front bolt? Even with the OEM hardware, there isn't any access.

 

I don't recall having much trouble. I think I fished it in from the front after taking off the tow hook. A long magnet-on-a-stick works well in situations like this one.

 

My solution was using the wirefeed, stick the wire to the end of the bolt....leave 20" or of wire on it, use the wire to fish the bolt through the hole.