Didi, thanks for the comments. I am pretty detail-oriented through training, and I am genetically OCD. When I was starting this thread, I was very worried my methods would overstretch the attention spans of a lot of my fellow FTE members. I hope that is not the case, as it is not my intention to bore anyone into not wanting to read here any more.

Very nice find on the updated dust seal. I have seen those on the websites while buying parts, but I did not know it was the updated seal.

 

As I get closer to installing these things, I am thinking more about the loose ends that I have not put a lot of thought into so far. Major point of contention is keeping the shock mounts to a bolt-on level, and not having to get someone to weld them onto the axles for me.


You can see here, the pin on the passenger side is located higher up on the circumference of the axle. On our Excursion 10.5 axles, they are both located evenly, and they are both pointed down at the ground like the driver's side here in this pic.


Top view drivers side of donor axle.


Top view passenger side of donor axle. You can see the difference in location of the pin very well here.


Here are the 3 options for mounting your passenger side shock on the lower end. Factory F250 on far left won't work unless you weld an upper mount to the frame in front of the axle, OR you weld that F250 bracket to the back side of the axle. Not bolt on...Notice they all have the hole in them for the locator pin on the axle.


Factory F250 DRIVER side mount in the middle here could work.


DRIVER or PASSENGER side factory mount (both the same) from an Excursion on the far right could also work.


Factory F250 Driver side mount on top of the Excursion mount so you can see the difference in shape and thickness.


Donor F250 driver side mount installed on locator pin. Notice how far the ears stick out toward the rear on the bottom.


F250 donor driver side mount installed on the locator pin on passenger side. This is a no go. Can't see the ears at all, as they are pointing straight down. This would add at least 2.5 inches to shock length, and the shock might not clear the axle tube.


Excursion shock mount installed on driver side pin. This could work well. You can see the ears sticking out to the rear down there.


Excursion mount installed on the pin on the passenger side. Again....no go.


Above, you see an Excursion mount installed "off" the pin. Notice how far the ears stick back to the rear. This could work...


Now, you see a DRIVER side F250 mount installed "off" the pin on the passenger side. Notice how far the ears stick back to the rear. This is better than the Excursion mount, and the winner in my opinion. This would put your mounting ears for the shock at almost the exact same distance as the driver side from the upper mounting point. The mount, when installed like this, and with the u-bolt applied, cannot rotate down/forward. The pin on the axle acts as a "stop" to keep the mount from twisting down and forward when force is applied by the shock. This is a bolt-on solution in my opinion.

Here is another photo showing a close-up of my "off-the-pin" mounting option:


In summary, you will need to get TWO driver side brackets off F250 trucks, OR you could just re-use your Excursion brackets and mount the passenger side bracket "off" the pin as shown above.

 

With all this wonderful northern weather we have been having down here, I am currently working on refinishing my 17" rims indoors. Overtime money incoming this week, so I will finally have funds to put tires on these rims I got with the axles. I am looking at 33" tires.

Looks like my preference for 18" rims will have to wait...

 

The bolt on solutions for the shock brackets look good. I had a 2000 F250 and I knocked the rear shock mounts out of position a couple of times. That was with the Ford locator pin in place. I ended up putting a couple of 1" welds on the bracket/axle tube. They never moved again. Your solution is good enough to get on the road, but I suspect a visit to a friend with a welder would be a good decision. Will you have a summary of the parts needed once you have completed the swap?

Thanks,

 

Not sure what summary you are asking for? Summary of parts I ordered, or summary of parts needed from the donor? Summary of the parts I ordered could be very subjective and specific to my situation. In the first couple of posts, I cover what you need to get from the donor pretty well, but I have been adding to that I suppose with master cylinders, shock brackets and brake line fittings.

 

Awesome thread and write-up, Mike.

 

I have read some other conversion threads, and I had to look through all of the posts to really get all of the details. Once the post gets longer than a few pages, that takes a while and can be somewhat confusing. I was just wondering if you would summarize exactly what you ended up using on your build. Nuts, bolts, ford parts, auto parts store parts, etc... and maybe a ballpark price. Maybe "edit" it into one of the first page posts.

Regardless, the build thread and details are excellent. Just pointing out my experience with similar threads.

Thanks,
Tom

 

Got lucky and found a very nice set of 18" Lariat take offs on CL today. $500 for the four rims and tires. Michelin LTX AT2 275/70R18 (33.2") on the rims


Tread is around 80% and manufactured late 2015.

 

Lots of progress today...I think. Getting the new tires and wheels has me moving toward install day pretty quick now.

I got the axle torn all the way down to the just the pinion left in it. I yanked the steering knuckles after finding the ball joints do in fact need to be changed out. Will be getting those this coming week. Hoping for an install in 2 weeks time if the weather cooperates. On to todays pics:


Draining the oil so I can pull the carrier and replace the inner oil seals.


Luckily, I own the D50/60/135 service tools.


Once you pull the cover, remove the bearing caps. They are marked on my differential on the cap, and on the flat surface where the bar is prying against. The left side is a capital M right side up. The right side is a capital M sideways. You can't screw them up if you know what to look for. Once the caps are off, pry against the ring gear bolt like this. Be prepared to catch it when it comes free. Put it in plastic bags and stuff it in the freezer. Don't let the bearing races get switched up.


Minus the carrier and bearings...


Check the ring gear for proper wear pattern.


This is what you want to see under the cover...No rust!


Last guy in here used a little too much RTV. I'm using a gasket on re-install.


Right side seal...that part number is obsolete.


Left side...These are easy to get out.


You need something long, softer than metal, and rigid enough not to bend while you gently tap on it. I used a fiberglass driveway marker. Then I flattened the end like this on a grinding wheel.


...so it can fit in this gap on the seal. Give it a couple taps on opposite sides. This seal took 4 taps, 2 on each side, and the seal was out. This was the short side seal.


Here is the long side seal. Only took 3 taps to pop it out. All damage absorbed by the fiberglass.


After seal is removed, you will need to clean up a bit.


Seal installer tool. One side goes on a threaded rod to adjust for the gap.


As you twist the rod, it pushes the seal in until the tool bottoms out at just the right depth. See the sideways M there for the bearing cap mark? There is another M just like it on the bearing cap.


Tool assembled and loaded with two seals.


Insert it into the gap...


Twist it by hand to take all the slop out...


Then start cranking with the wrench until both sides seat...


Left side seats first on mine here...keep turning it...


...until both sides bottom out on the adapter shoulders.


Once the seals are in, clean up the housing for re-install. Before...


During...Spin your wire wheel the right way, and you won't get any debris from cleanup inside the housing.


After cleanup...ready for re-assembly.


Cleaning up the differential cover bolts. Before in background...after foreground.


Painted the diff cover and some other parts today.


Touched up the paint on the front sway bar.


Completely repainted rear sway bar.


Pulled both knuckles so I can replace ball joints. They are quite bad...very sloppy and easy to move.


Started cleaning up lug nuts...


Halfway through the lug nut pile, and they look like new.

 

Great pictorial on inner axle seal R&R Mike. Any chance of pulling that one post and adding it to our tech sticky? Would be easier to find. This is the first one dealing with R&R that I've seen. (Y'all should be repping Mike).

 

Where did you get the OTC seal install kit?

 

Bought it from the owner of the Ford dealer in Giddings when it closed back in '10. Bought a ton of other tools as well as all his shop manuals.

Sean, I have no problem copying and pasting that portion of the post into another thread if Stewart wants to add it to the tech folder.

 

I am freezing here like everyone else all over, so not much got done today before time to head to work. Looking to rebound to normal temps next week and get these things installed!


Cleaned up the rest of the lug nuts


Cleaned up the hardware for the tie rod adjusting sleeves


These are the front brake line fittings on the truck side that I went back and got.


They cleaned up nice as well...just in case I need them. I will just cut mine off, place these on my lines and reflare.

 

Hey Mike, Any chance you would rent that tool? Or maybe know where I could buy descent one

 

When you looking to do the work? I assume not during winter. I will be through Kentucky in May.