After the carrier thawed out, I put the cover on and started to bolt it down...and then I decided to paint the bolts so they won't rust.


Using a gasket instead of RTV. I'll have to trim it after I torque the bolts down, as there is quite a bit hanging over the edge.

I have quite a few colors left over from previous projects, so I settled on Toreador Red. Bolts are gonna match the truck paint. Might as well since I have it. Should look snazzy (Cool points for using that word).


How to paint bolts...get a cardboard box and cut little x's in the top. Stuff a bolt in each x. Paint away.


I used a self-etching primer, then several coats of the red. Tire and rim clear coat over the red. Should hold up for a long time. The remaining four bolts are holding the cover on since I filled it with oil already. I'll paint them tomorrow when I put these on.


In case any of you reading need tips on replacing the cover, here is how to put the RTV on and the bolt torque specs. 35 ft/lbs.

 

I almost forgot...2.8 liters/3 qts/5.9 pints to fill the front differential. 80W-90, and awfully nice to be able to just dump the oil in the differential rather than using that little fill plug on the cover!


First 6 diff bolts are dry.


Almost forgot about the tag. It's going to get Toreador Red, too.


All hardware is getting painted. This isn't all of them, either. There are more running through my tumbler I still need to paint. These will all be black, I think. All covered in self-etching primer in this pic.

Now, some of you may think it ridiculous to paint the bolts. Since I'm in a holding pattern due the the Expy needing parts (that I'm still waiting for), I figure I'll have some fun and use up some paint I have sitting around. It also can't hurt in preventing corrosion/rust on my newly refurbished axles. Besides, I'm not feeling well and can't sleep.

David, hope you are feeling better and healing up.

 

My army of hardware is painted.

 

Working on parts list and costs...this is painful. I wish I could just go about my business and not reflect on the costs. Some of these parts were "wants", but most of them were "needs".

Motorcraft BKCF4 Slide pins; front $9.91 (x2)
Raybestos WK1653 Front caliper rebuild kit $4.53 (x2)
Powerstop K178136 Z36 Severe duty rotors and pads; front $231.79
Ultra-Power DS 80749 Center link $45.99
Dana 54983 Axle hub o-ring $1.50 (x2)
Mevotech MS40625 Tie rod end; outer; pitman arm to steering arm $25.79
Mevotech MES80754 Tie rod end; front left outer; 4wd $37.89
Mevotech MS40622 Tie rod end; front right outer; 4wd $36.79
Motorcraft ASH23413 heavy duty shock absorber $45.79 (x2)
Moog K8656 Stabilizer bar bushings; 30mm bar $10.64
Moog K200880 Stabilizer bar bushings, front $9.54
USA Stand.Gear USA-23007 Differential gasket; Dana 60 $4.98
Dana 2023068 Hub seal; Dana 60 $24.08 (x2)
Superlift SLF11634 Axle u-bolts; rear Ford 10.5; 13.5" $46.07
Rancho RS8129 Leaf spring center pin; 4" x .4375" $6.17
Dana 53877 Outer dust seal; Dana 60 $18.62 (x2)
Timken 710492 Inner axle oil seal; Dana 60 $22.79 (x2)
Mevotech MK80026 Ball joint front upper; 4wd $18.69 (x2)
Mevotech MK8607T Ball joint front lower; 4wd $19.15 (x2)
Moog K80124 Caster/Camber bushing; 2° $15.25 (x2)
Moog SSD131 Heavy Duty steering damper $41.79

Rear brake pads and calipers $160
Craigslist - Rims and tires for newer offset $500
Miscellaneous, bolts, gear oil, rags, paint, SHIPPING, etc $400


Grand total of $1,920 for parts/pieces. My shipping costs will likely not be your shipping costs.

This total should stand barring any unforeseen expenses I incur on install.

Not everyone will spend this much money. I replaced almost everything on the front axle. The only thing I didn't replace were the hub assemblies. Luckily, they seem to be good to go. I barely touched the rear axle. I only needed to clean and paint it along with brakes, but it is most certainly the simpler of the two assemblies. Re-use whatever you can. Put some elbow grease in, and you can save money here and there. It all adds up, in either direction, very quickly.

 

I went back through and tried to search for the information, but didn't seem to find it- sorry if I skimmed through and missed-

Do you have the WMS to WMS measurements for both the axle you are replacing and the new one? I've searched a bit on the internet and it was never quite easy to find (or my google skills aren't up to par).

Otherwise, thanks for documenting everything for all of us planning to tackle this in the future.

 

The new axles ('07 in this case) are 3" wider than the older axles ('01 in this case). I don't have the exact measurements, but I can sure get them when I go to install these.

The Expedition is going back together this weekend, so the axle install is imminent.

 

Wow man, great work....really great work. I just read through the whole thread. Im getting ready/gathering parts to do this swap on a 99 f250 2wd. Ive got my donor front end with all the brackets that I pulled out of a part out truck. I do have a couple questions though.

Does that differential carrier not use shims to side load the carrier or set backlash? What if you were to re-gear, how would you set backlash?

Also, the radius arm brackets, is the frame gap issue something that is across the board? Meaning, will I have the same issue mounting the brackets that you did where you had to install the washers/spacers?

 

Gotta hand it to you, thats some impressive attention to detail there...

 

Thanks, Sergey. I am on the last few items to fix on the Expedition, and it will be 100% for the wife to drive. I was able to get a TON of parts for it at the Gold Mine this past week. The entire suspension & brakes (Rock Auto!) all around is completely new, and lots of interior parts to replace the old broken ones (Gold Mine). I was able to also get all the parts to fix the rear hatch/glass/wiper back there (Gold Mine). Clock spring install today (Gold Mine), along with new front seat belts (Gold Mine) that I have refurbished to like new condition and new tires mounted on some 2014 Expy 20" stock rims (take-offs).

Once that is all done in the next couple of days, the X is going under the knife.

 

Mike how do you get them fastened without scraping that beautiful paint?

 

I'm lost on your question, Sean. Get what fastened?

 

There were no shims in my Dana 60. Just the carrier, bearings and bearing races. If you were to install new gears, you would have to check backlash and shim as needed. As infrequently as most people use their 4x4, I would say it would not be critical unless the backlash was WAY off. Keep in mind, some of the backlash is affected by pinion depth, and you could shim there as needed.

I know a guy that did this swap on his '99 F250 4x4. He had the same frame gap, and that is where I got the idea for the washers as a solution to welding a plate in there.

 

@Nicmike, I think he meant scratching the paint off these...

 

Ah, gotcha. I clear-coated them and I will have to see how they hold up. Even if some of it chips off, it will be better than bare metal. Might do touch up on the bolts after they are installed, or just cover all of them in bed-liner (Not the red ones!).

 

That’s it Mike, thx Prakash.