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The big one was perfect for the 1/2 inch holes I just drilled. I would say the little one would be for anything 3/8 or under. Get the big one for bumper holes...I think those are 5/8
The big one was perfect for the 1/2 inch holes I just drilled. I would say the little one would be for anything 3/8 or under. Get the big one for bumper holes...I think those are 5/8
I'm to far away for you to use my Miller 251
I seen those step bits at HF but didn't know if they here any good.
Think I'll pick up a set next time I'm by there.
I've got a Erwin but am a little picky about where I use it. $$
Thanks for the link on the center punches, I've been wanting some.
Be careful...I may take you up on that. Mine is good to 3/16, but after that it just doesn't have enough "ooompfff". I wouldn't trust it on stuff this important.
Just let me know. Mine is also only good to 3/16" on 120 but she'll go up to 3/8" if you can plug it in to 240. I don't have a need for it in the near future so you wouldn't be putting me out at all.
Just let me know. Mine is also only good to 3/16" on 120 but she'll go up to 3/8" if you can plug it in to 240. I don't have a need for it in the near future so you wouldn't be putting me out at all.
I have 220-240 in my garage that I set up for my big 'ole compressor...just a question of which plug your machine is using for its 240 feed. I'll text you when that time comes.
I was out at the yard yesterday getting F code springs and the brake fittings from the front wheels off my donor (I cut them off with a set of dikes), and I decided to take a closer look at the rear axles on the 08+ trucks he has out there. On closer inspection, ALL of the 08+ trucks he has out there have the shock mount brackets welded on to the rear axle: driver's side facing rear and passenger side facing forward. That poses a problem for us Excursion owners. Something to think about as you search for a donor. The upper shock mounts on those trucks are held on by 4 little rivets...about 3/8" size or a little smaller. I'd have to check my frame (forgot to do that today) for the holes...might be a long shot, but we could get lucky. Not sure what might be in the way on that passenger side on an X off the top of my head. Maybe fuel tank in the rear is in the way? I'm sure there is a reason the Excursion mounts are where they are...
I was out at the yard yesterday getting F code springs and the brake fittings from the front wheels off my donor (I cut them off with a set of dikes), and I decided to take a closer look at the rear axles on the 08+ trucks he has out there. On closer inspection, ALL of the 08+ trucks he has out there have the shock mount brackets welded on to the rear axle: driver's side facing rear and passenger side facing forward. That poses a problem for us Excursion owners. Something to think about as you search for a donor. The upper shock mounts on those trucks are held on by 4 little rivets...about 3/8" size or a little smaller. I'd have to check my frame (forgot to do that today) for the holes...might be a long shot, but we could get lucky. Not sure what might be in the way on that passenger side on an X off the top of my head. Maybe fuel tank in the rear is in the way? I'm sure there is a reason the Excursion mounts are where they are...
I agree welding some new ones on is an option, but I am trying to make this thread for the DIY driveway/home garage type of guy who wants to do all his own work...because he is on a BUDGET and may not have a welder handy...I have blown said budget out of the water over here at my house...
Trying to keep this to nuts and bolts with as little fabrication as possible, so that is why I said watch out for those welded on shock mounts...well, the passenger side one at least. We can still use the driver's side one...
I pulled the driver's side inner axle today. It is still raining/super humid here, so cleanup and painting is on hold for better weather. I am glad I pulled it, as I found it needed cleanup beyond what I could see on the outside. The hub seal was good. The inner axle dust seal was bad. The inner axle oil seal is good, but there is some rust built up around it deep in there. Thinking hard about replacing the inner axle oil seals and cleaning it all up inside the right way before installing. I hate to cut corners...especially when all the parts are off the truck and so accessible.
Debris I could not see from the outside materialized after I pulled the axle shaft.
There is rust inside that tube by the inner oil seal. My OCD aircraft tech side is coming out and eating at my conscience....
Stub axle is quite different from the Dana 50
Here is that dust seal all Ford 4x4 owners complain about. It doesn't seal out any dust, that is for sure.
Plastic debris shield deep down in the axle. It slides on the tube, and is held on by about 6 friction cleats. Easy to remove.
The old knuckle seal. Seems this one was two parts? I can't find a part number on it anywhere.
This separated from it after I removed it.
Dust seal is super easy to get off with a screwdriver and a couple taps with a small hammer.
Gotta clean that landing up for the new seal.
After the brass wheel on the drill.
And that is as far as I got today. Pirublues stopped by for his free parts today, so I spent the rest of the afternoon talking to him before I had to head in to work. James is a great guy, and he is serving our country and sacrificing for all of us like many here have done in the past and present. What a great group of owners we have here.
While I was talking to him, FedEx dropped off the 7/16-14 x 1.5" flange bolts and locking flange nuts for the coil bucket install. Pics and part numbers below. Fastenal got them to me in 2 days. I couldn't find them in stock anywhere locally in Austin. They had 1/2" and 3/8" flange bolts, but no 7/16".
The light rust inside the housing doesn't look to bad but I agree, clean it up and for sure install new inner axle seals.
More concerning to me is the rust on the inner axle shaft, that creates stress risers and if you were to wheel it hard that is most likely where it would break.
When we make custom alloy axles we go as micro polishing them, but then again we get up 35* of twist out of 1.71" 40 spline 300M shafts
That inner seal is Timken or National 710492. I now have 2 coming from RockAuto, as they again had the best price on the parts. $22.79/ea
All the rust on the axle will be cleaned up. I know the weak spot will still be there, but I won't be doing any serious wheeling with the X. Just snow, mud and sand when encountered in daily life.
I removed the spring perches to clean under them, knock off the rust and paint under them.
Pretty cruddy under there...
Then I started on the passenger side tear down and clean up.
Passenger side dust seal hanging in the wind...
To remove the axle, remove the hub, lube up the vacuum chamber with grease or silicone spray (So the seal will slide out easier) and get a pry bar in behind the dust seal like this:
Works even better with a pry bar on each side, but it can be done with one bar and some finesse.
The new view without the axle installed.
Not too bad. I've seen worse on this long side...
This guy gets destroyed while prying. Make sure you have new seals on hand for re-install.
Ready for cleanup.
The seal comes off easy with a small hammer and a few taps.
Spring perch cleaned up. Tomorrow I'll tackle the steering knuckle and start painting.
I am going to use bedliner on the axle tube, housing and the steering knuckles. 3 coats. Spring perches will get low gloss black.
Then I will open her up, drain the old oil, install new inner oil seals (they are enroute), and then it all goes back together. When I pull the carrier/ring gear, it will go straight into the freezer in a plastic bag. This will ease re-install dramatically. The cover will get painted. I bought the gasket for it, so I won't be using RTV. RockAuto has it in stock, and even has a few different options.
Mike, you're doing an excellent job on the pictures and details. I think you have a lot more patience then many of us to carefully detail and paint each part.
I thought I read somewhere on the forum that there was an upgraded inner axle dust seal that was more like a metal bearing for the dana 60. Gonna do some searching....
EDIT: Apparently this is the part number Motorcraft BRS-170 or AC3Z-1S175-A and it's only for the Dana 60. I came across this info when I overhauled my front axle. I wish they made one for the Dana 50 too.
