'07 axles under the '01 Excursion - Conversion Thread
If I am reading it correctly the missing springs are on the 2006 donor truck.
Plenty of reasons people would want those including to install them on a Excursion but it could also be as simple as the donor truck was in a wreck and the springs were bent so the PO took them off thinking they could be fixed.
Here are some other part numbers for freshening up the front axle hubs and axle shafts. Prices listed are at DrivetrainAmerica. I couldn't find them for a better price than what those guys have them at. Even better prices than RockAuto on these items, and RockAuto is my go-to-honey-hole for new parts.
2023068 Spicer Dana Super 60 Ford Front Outer Axle Shaft Seal With Slinger 2005+
(big vacuum seal inside the hub)
$20.26/ea
54983 Spicer Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Yellow O-ring Vacuum Hub 2005+
(must be replaced after R&Ring your hub)
$1.50/ea
50492 Spicer Dana 60 Outer Axle Dust Seal
(the seal on the inside of the u-joint that is always dangling because the design sucks)
$6.15/ea
Yeah, thats right. Dana SUPER 60!!!
The Dana super 60 is a wider axle with 10 lug hubs, 1550 ujoints and a bigger 10" ring gear. They mainly came equipped on the f450 and f550 trucks.
Some parts are compatible with a standard Dana 60 but but overall they are different setups
Fwiw, a Dana Super 60 can be converted to a 8 lug hub but it will still end up be 2" wider
Super 60 Wms to wms is 84"
Standard 60 is 72"
Super 60 converted with 8 lug hubs is 74"
Don't really like the tires running closer to the shoulder on narrow roads, but man does it turn sharp now, 8-9 ft tighter circle.
Super 60 does have a 10" ring gear for more contact area with the pinion, but the used 9 3/4" standard 60 gears I had dropped right in.
Never broke a 60 front so I should be ok with the smaller ring gear.
I should be able to bend the lines around to the other side after re-flaring them, as there is plenty of line to reach.
Detailed photos tomorrow on this issue.
https://www.mastercool.com/product-c...flaring-tools/
I didn't search to hard but it sounds like a 7145 kit would do what you need
Mastercool 71450 Metric Double & Bubble Flaring Tool Set at ToolPan.com
You can likely find better pricing as I just a quick look to show you the tool.
Edit.....the 71450 kit doesn't have an M12 die included but I am sure they can supply you one
I did get the lines from a '00 V10 X for the run from the ABS to the MC to tinker with on this issue. They are the same threads as mine, and same line diameter. I should be able to mock up the whole thing and bend the lines. I do need to pick up a little tubing cutter tomorrow. I think a hacksaw would make a mess of things.
https://store.snapon.com/Cutters-Tub...--P652961.aspx
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Use a 37* AN flare tool. Nicoop brake Ex line is easy to work with and doesn't rust.
( automotive flares are 45* degrees )
JEGS Flare Tools | JEGS
.
Tucked between battery and headlamp.
The lines are the same diameter, and are routed the same with exception of the termination points at the ABS pump. Looks like same 9/16-18 And 7/16-24 fittings at the MC, too.
So, the easiest way around this is to grab these with your donor MC:
The ABS pump on the 05+ trucks I've seen is right next to the MC, so these lines are 1/10th the length of mine going to the same components.
It is important to note a couple of things on your newer MC. Port sizes and bubble or double flare inside the ports...here is why:
07 MC on left, and 08 on right. Notice the port sizes are REVERSED.
07 uses BUBBLE flare. Notice the shape of the interior of the port...
08 uses DOUBLE flare. Notice shape of interior of port...
Everything I'm reading indicates BUBBLE flares are one time use, and should not be reused. Something to think about...
Here is my solution to my specific situation:
Here is my test subject off the '00 V10. I am going to use the double flare '08 MC on the right.
Cut the SAE fittings off...
With this. $9 at Lowes in plumbing.
Like this...
Both cut off. Now go to your short lines from the donor...
I was worried they wouldn't fit, but they fit fine on my older lines.
Both of them fit...great!
Shot of my MC and lines on opposite side. I will simply cut off the flares, ditch the SAE fittings, bend the lines to the other side, slide on the metric fittings, and put another double flare on before hooking up to the new MC.
Plenty of line under the MC to bend it around to the other side.
So, on install weekend, that is how I will handle the conversion to the newer MC.
Here are the wheel well connections for the '07:
Both double flare. Going to have to check threads to see if they are SAE or metric. Hoping my lines match up...
New tie rod ends.
New drag link. All purchased at RockAuto. Shipping was lightening fast as always with them.
Carefully measure the parts before disassembly AND count the threads. I measured in millimeters for more accuracy. Glad I have digital calipers...In this pic, I am getting the adjuster sleeve off the old parts to put on the new parts. A new sleeve is only about $12 @ RockAuto. This one is in great shape. No rust. I'm reusing it.
Then I took the tie rod apart. Measure and count threads at both ends. I sprayed with penetrating oil before hand, and followed that up with a bunch of silicone spray. They came apart very easy.
I'll assemble the new tie rod ends and drag link tomorrow. It has been raining here a lot the last 5 days, so I still need to finish the axle cleanup.
He did most of the work...
Passenger side.
Underneath and looking up. Holes are slightly offset as has been mentioned by others.
Gap in the rear.
Gap from front to back...those are flange head 1/2-13 x 1.5" bolts with flanged lock nuts. Grade 8
Drivers side. Already dirty...
Looking up from below again...offset.
Front to back clearance. This is more than 1/4 inch in some spots, I think. Especially in the rear. Gonna measure tomorrow. Ran out of time today.
1.75" bolts on this side. Still plenty of room around fuel pump on my '01 7.3L.
Plenty of room here, too, in the front. 1.5" bolt will be perfect.
Will be tinkering with the drill tomorrow, and will be measuring the gaps. Undecided whether I will weld in a spacer plate or just use washers in the gap. Really big washers.
May save you some fab work, I keep my 04 master and ABS and tweaked the lines to get them to route around the back of the crossmember.











