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Had my new super duty snap ring pliers show up today... These mean business
Manufacturer and model#...made in Germany. Das es gut!
You will find the tips on these pliers are ever so slightly too big to fit in the snap ring holes...
...I used a small file to reduce the diameter of the tip ever so slightly.
Once that giant snap ring is defeated, you can remove the ABS sensor and toss it. It won't work with your older electronics, so you will be using your old sensor in that hole. 5mm Allen screw...
Hub off...There was some rust that formed around the yellow o-ring. You will have to clean that off with scotch pad or a wire brush before re-installing with a new o-ring. I have already started cleaning here at the bottom.
Another angle of the rust on the lip where the o-ring seals. You can also see the groove where the snap ring lives. These newer style hubs are bigger than ours and much different in a simpler way. All the washers are missing, and...
There are no needle bearings, Sean!!! Last time I listen to you...
The o-rings are NOT designed to be re-used. Buy two new ones. They are dirt cheap. Part number later...
Part number for the awesome, newer track bar bracket.
Part number for the newer steering stabilizer bracket.
Part number for 21mm front swaybar. 5C34-5494-CC
Additional numbers on the 21mm swaybar in case someone needs them.
Steering stabilizer part # over next 3 pics...5C34...
[I]Once that giant snap ring is defeated, you can remove the ABS sensor and toss it. It won't work with your older electronics, so you will be using your old sensor in that hole. 5mm Allen screw...
That may explain the issue I've been having with my ABS light, when we installed the 08 axle we didn't swap in the 04 sensors.
Getting close...2 more items knocked off the list: Caliper mounting brackets cleaned and painted.
Radius arm brackets properly painted and protected...
So next I will be painting the coil buckets and treating the little bit of rust at the very top of each one. Even on my Texas donor, there is some rust where the isolator cup is welded to the rest of the bucket. I'll get pics tomorrow of the rust issue, but it is something to look for BEFORE you invest time cutting them out of your donor. If they are too far gone, don't bother.
After buckets, I'll be painting the front axle and greasing hubs through the ABS sensor. No needle bearings on these newer Dana 60 hubs. Then the brakes and wheels will be going back on.
Need to purchase all new tie rods (x3) and drag link after brakes are on.
While waiting for funds for tires/wheels and steering parts, I will get the radius arm brackets installed and holes drilled for coil buckets.
The spring cups had rusted pretty bad under the rubber pad on the 08 front I used, right side was real bad, left side had several pin holes.
New right side bracket from Ford was $80.
Left side was $175. Go figure.
I'm gonna try to get my hands on a set of the 13+ calipers, pads and rotors if I can. I'm not seeing a reason one could not buy the newer stuff and bolt it onto a '05-12 axle, unless Ford changed the mounting points for the caliper brackets...the axles are the same from '05-'16 with the only difference being the rear pinion starting in '08, and in '11 the rear differential gained the ability to be electronically locked, but that might not have changed anything out on the wheel ends. If the mounting points are the same (caliper brackets and calipers), it just might work if you get all 3 components.
Almost certain it will work. There was another thread in which I asked Todd from TCE about it and he hinted that it should work. TCE Performance Products
I want to do a 13 axle swap for the brakes but since that conversation I have expanded my search to include 05+ and add the 13 brake package,
When you get a chance can you get a pic of the 01 track bar bracket next to the 07 track bar bracket ?
I'd like a comparison of the two since on the leaf spring model the forces are considerable less since the leafs do the majority of laterally locating the axle. On the linked front ends it is really panhard bar and is the only thing that keeps the axle from moving laterally.
Good prices on the parts, apparently my Ford dealer marks up his prices.
Edit: went back and checked my sales receipts, right side was $57 instead of $80, left side was $175.
Guess I got ripped off again.
Not the first time, probably won't be the last.
- Expect to pay $1200-1500 for rust free axles in Texas IF YOU DO THE REMOVAL YOURSELF. If you are buying them ready to load and carry away, expect to pay another $500-800 in labor/time/blood/sweat for the seller to remove the coil buckets and radius arm brackets. If the axles are rusty, then you need to adjust the price accordingly, because your prep/cleanup/paint times will be doubled...at least. Not to mention the replacement of rusty parts on your dime and time.
Just saw this ad in the sacramento Craigslist if anybody is looking.
( I am not affiliated with seller ) but I have seen ads from this guy before, pretty sure he is a hobby recycling yard and has occasionally had an Excursion being parted out.
"i have a complete front suspension and axle setup to convert your rough leaf springs to coil system or your 2wd to 4 wd. fits 99 and newer ford f-250 f-350. has a dana 60 high pinion front axle with 35 spine axles. rear sterling axle, steering box, coil buckets, radius arms and brackets. i have different size coils for lifts, and everything you need. most holes are in frames and just bolts in place. $1800 for front setup and $2100 with rear axle."
The spring cups had rusted pretty bad under the rubber pad on the 08 front I used, right side was real bad, left side had several pin holes.
New right side bracket from Ford was $80.
Left side was $175. Go figure.
Exact same thing with mine as far as the right being much worse than the left. This has to be due to the condensation from the A/C lines dripping down on the coil bucket. Passenger side
Driver side
I still need to get a small wire brush in that gap to clean some more rust out before I paint these for install.
Cleaned up the welds. Paint was compromised on the welds on both sides. Make sure you repaint the welds before putting back on your truck. Extra thick on the passenger side since the A/C condensation drips on it...
This is what happens when you don't get the drill bit centered on the rivet. I might have to drill it out and put a bigger bolt here.
Here is what you get when your holes are centered correctly on the rivets.
When you get a chance can you get a pic of the 01 track bar bracket next to the 07 track bar bracket ?
I'd like a comparison of the two since on the leaf spring model the forces are considerable less since the leafs do the majority of laterally locating the axle. On the linked front ends it is really panhard bar and is the only thing that keeps the axle from moving laterally.
( I still like the supper beefy one from PMF )
Not a problem. I will get you a pic when I get there.
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