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Exact same thing with mine as far as the right being much worse than the left. This has to be due to the condensation from the A/C lines dripping down on the coil bucket. Passenger side
Driver side
I still need to get a small wire brush in that gap to clean some more rust out before I paint these for install.
Cleaned up the welds. Paint was compromised on the welds on both sides. Make sure you repaint the welds before putting back on your truck. Extra thick on the passenger side since the A/C condensation drips on it...
This is what happens when you don't get the drill bit centered on the rivet. I might have to drill it out and put a bigger bolt here.
Here is what you get when your holes are centered correctly on the rivets.
On mine moisture had got between the rubber pad and the barrel of the cup, when we knocked the worst scale off the right side cup nearly broke off, the left side had several pin holes in the sides of the cup after we had it clean.
Recommend some type of sealer or long lasting grease be used where the rubber pad contacts the cup.
We were changing the front frame section due to the different mounting holes for the steering box (apparently different on the larger 450-550 chassis from the 250-350), but the plus side was not having to remove the spring brackets. Because of the rust that didn't work out.
A grade 8 flange bolt clamps around the outer part of the flange which will be outside the messed up area, so you should be fine.
Please do not use regular bolts and flat washers on any part of that build, all of the factory bolts you removed where flange head, they used them for a reason.
Hey Nicmike! Sure do appreciate this thread. So much in fact that I just brought home a donor truck to take care of the conversion on my own EX. Question for you, any idea if the rear leaf springs off of my 02 will mount the axle of the 06? I'll try and snap a picture in the daylight to show you why I ask...
Please do not use regular bolts and flat washers on any part of that build, all of the factory bolts you removed where flange head, they used them for a reason.
Manufactures use them simply because they save time in the assembly process.
A traditional hex bolt and flat washer of the same grade is equally as strong as a flanged bolt.
Manufactures use them simply because they save time in the assembly process.
A traditional hex bolt and flat washer of the same grade is equally as strong as a flanged bolt.
So not true!
Flat washer will exert more pressure under the head of the bolt than along to outer edge.
Flange head exerts equal pressure over the entire area of the flange, that gives more equal clamping force over a larger area
I again found that all that brown was mostly dirt/grease buildup and not rust.
It did take me 2.5 hrs to clean up 2/3 of the axle today.
Still have this 1/3 to go tomorrow.
I went through two wire wheels today. Had to buy more for the work tomorrow. Stick with brass on the wheels in my opinion. I don't like the steel ones. They are too aggressive. I also used lots of brake clean and rags to wipe it down as I went so I don't have as much prep to do before painting.
I still need to paint it after I clean it up. Bought the paint today for that, and I am going to spray bed liner along the front of the axle over the top of the paint. The front of that axle caught hell during its life. There is almost no paint left on the front. It is all chipped off.
If you do buy some axles, and you find you need a new bearing in the hub that rides on the axle shaft (like the needle bearings do in the older ones), this is a part number for that smaller inner bearing: SKF 60092RSJ. $39 at Rock Auto. It is also called a "driveshaft center support bearing" in other applications that use it.
Here are some other part numbers for freshening up the front axle hubs and axle shafts. Prices listed are at DrivetrainAmerica. I couldn't find them for a better price than what those guys have them at. Even better prices than RockAuto on these items, and RockAuto is my go-to-honey-hole for new parts.
2023068 Spicer Dana Super 60 Ford Front Outer Axle Shaft Seal With Slinger 2005+
(big vacuum seal inside the hub)
$20.26/ea
54983 Spicer Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Yellow O-ring Vacuum Hub 2005+
(must be replaced after R&Ring your hub)
$1.50/ea
53877 Spicer Dana 60 Inner Axle Dust Seal
(the seal on the inside of the u-joint that is always dangling because the design sucks)
$18.00/ea
Yeah, thats right. Dana SUPER 60!!!
Last edited by Nicmike; Dec 22, 2017 at 01:47 PM.
Reason: Wrong part number!!
WOW!....just WOW! I hope that was just to move it around after it was taken out of commission.
Yes, you are good. Your leaf springs will mount to that axle on those spring perches. That all looks stock...albeit a lot rustier than what I am used to seeing down here.
WOW!....just WOW! I hope that was just to move it around after it was taken out of commission.
Yes, you are good. Your leaf springs will mount to that axle on those spring perches. That all looks stock...albeit a lot rustier than what I am used to seeing down here.
HAHA I also got a kick out of it. Really, I thought it was quite ingenious. The Seller was parting out the truck and the rear leafs sold before I got to it. The hose clamp was only to keep the axle with the truck.
The rust is a bit of a bummer but living in the north I have grown used to it. I think I did pretty good overall $800 for a roller and I still have a few parts I can sell off.
