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I have been working the last 3 days on a honey-do list. Decided I better keep her happy with all the parts I'm buying.
Got to the track bar ball joint removal today. Pretty simple if you have the right tools. You'll need one of these or something of similar size. Patient in the background...
Test fit before cutting the threads off the ball joint. Perfect fit.
This makes quick work of the threads.
Once the threads are off, your C clamp will fit. Unless you have a super-giant one.
I used a 24" breaker bar since I couldn't get my impact on there. About 10 quarter turns of the bar, and the ball joint popped right out.
Ugliness...
More ugliness...
Much better after the brass wire wheel. Getting the new joint soon.
Thought I'd post up some side-by-side photos of the gearboxes. 99-04 vs. 05-10:
'05-10 on bottom. Biggest visible difference is the sector shaft size (where pitman arm connects).
Beefier on top as well.
With the bigger sector shaft (larger diameter), you have more leverage from the steering wheel. This equals an easier-to-turn wheel for you the driver/owner. Another of the major benefits of this swap...
Front brakes have arrived, as well as the new lower ball joint for the track bar. Will have some photo documentation this weekend of the progress towards install.
Approaching $500 on parts and consumables (cleaners, gear oil, paint, tools...), and I know I need to order dust boots for all the steering joint connections at minimum...hoping none of the tie rods need replaced. Also hoping there won't be much more outside those boots, tires and wheels.
I am pacing myself for the next few weeks, since I don't have my wheels and tires yet. These axles can't go on the truck till I have those, so there really is no hurry till I figure that part of the equation out.
Today, I got the track bar ball joint mounted up. Old one was 2.062" in diameter. The new Moog "problem solver" is 2.071" in diameter. Needless to say, this was going to be a problem. Several internet reviews of the part denoted this discrepancy. I decided to give it a go anyway. I tossed the Moog in the freezer last night, and hoped it would shrink enough for a smooth install. When I took it out of the freezer today, it was 2.068" in diameter...and very cold. I was going to return it if it didn't shrink down to 2.065", but I decided to proceed.
My redneck install tools. I used the same socket I had used to remove the old one...I just switched its position to the bottom. 3 heavy duty washers off Jim's truck over the top of the joint to prevent damage to the ball housing.
She's in there after a bit of a struggle. Due to the oversize issue, it was VERY difficult to keep it straight. It kept wanting to tilt on me in the bore. I used some silicone spray, and that really helped to ease it in there. VERY tight fit, indeed. Don't forget the C clip on the bottom. Not that you would ever need it on this install...
Removed the radius arms and checked the bushings. They look good, and I will be painting these black after sanding. Unless someone has an idea for a different color...
Got it up on jack stands for tear down inspection.
Looking really ugly at first glance.
These rotors were new. No grooves whatsoever. Will be keeping these on the shelf after cleaning them up.
Both calipers in great shape. Pistons retracted easily and slide pins were free and clear.
Both hubs turn free and clear. Both unit bearings feel new. They are very tight.
Both of the outer axle dust seals are hanging. The seals last about a year before tearing and going back to the same condition as the ones that were replaced. Very poor design on those seals.
I really think this is as far as I will be tearing them down. Pulling the inner axles has led to leaking inner seals for me in the past, so I don't pull axles unless I have to now. There is not appearing to be a "have to" on these. I will drain the oil and replace it, and check the other side of things at that time. If I find something there (everything operates as it should, so not anticipating that), then I can pull them if needed.
Looking to clean and paint at this stage, and then move to brake install. I bought new slide pins for the front since the rears were frozen on one side, but turns out the fronts look great. Don't order any parts for your axle swap until you LOOK at the old parts. Especially if you are on a budget. Resist the urge for shiny new stuff...very hard....must resist.
Sean, you are making more work for me. Only because you are right, though. Not like I don't have the time while waiting for paint to dry on various parts...
I'll take your advice, and I'll post some pics for those that have never had theirs off.
I'd like to join you with that relaxing job Mike, maybe a brew to sip.
Come on over!
Got her stripped down some more today...it's almost naked, guys!
Stripped down in my driveway.
I was able to get all the steering components removed in short order. Very easy with axles off the truck...heck it is all pretty easy when the axle isn't on the truck anymore!!! Clean-up and assessment is what takes all the time. Well, that and wait times for paint to dry.
I was going to get the Energy Suspension boots to replace the old worn out dust boots, but I don't think they will fit. I checked all their products, and I can't find one that has the same specs as the tie rod joints on this Dana 60 axle...not even close. Here is a diagram of the different joints, and the measurements for the boots in those joints:
Circles in this outstanding diagram are for the boot locations.
The largest one I can find on Energy's list of boots is .65 on the small end and 1.625 on the large end of the boot. As you can see, this is not even close to our measurements. I am concerned I would buy the boots, and they would not be able to be stretched that far to fit our larger tie rod ends. I also found one tie rod joint that is quite loose. The others were pretty tight. So at this point, I think I will be buying new steering components to replace the old ones. I was hoping to salvage what was there, but I don't think it is going to work out, AND BESIDES THAT I want grease fittings!!!! Ford didn't put any on the stock tie rods. Here are some pics of the joints you are dealing with (with no darn grease fittings I might add):
Drivers side outer. Boot was worn in half.
Passenger side lower (right side of pic) and center boot (left side of pic). Not even sure how you would replace that center boot...I had to cut this one out to get it off.
That one was the only boot that survived...out of five.
Passenger side upper off drag link.
Drag link connection to the pitman arm.
So, once I had the steering arms off, I decided to tackle the hubs to grease the needle bearings as Sean suggested. These hubs are quite a bit bigger and more robust than the Dana 50 hubs.
To remove the 4x4 hub, remove these 3 torx screws. Blue loctite is in there.
Then gently pull the hub out...make sure it isn't engaged before you try to remove it.
Pure awesome right there...
With the hub out, you can peek inside the unit bearing assembly and see there is a C clip in there waiting for you....wayyyyyyy back in there.
These have worked for me on every job I have needed them for on my X until now. They are just a bit too short.
So, now I gotta locate some longer pliers to get that C clip out. That is a seriously big C clip, and it needs a very robust tool to release tension and pull it out. Work on the hubs is stalled till I locate something. If I had been able to get it out this afternoon (before having to pack up for work), I would have removed the 4 nuts off the backside of the hub:
...and I would have yanked that hub off there to clean it up. That will have to wait till Monday I guess.
****I have ordered the Knipex 4611A4 snap ring pliers. Awaiting their arrival to proceed with hubs.****
Under all that caked on red dirt and rust was the factory paint. Still there and hanging on. I used 80 grit on a sander for the large flat areas...change paper often for quicker results...and wire wheels for the nooks and crannies. Notice the welded on nut for the drivers side arm. It fits tight up against the top of the pumpkin, and you would have a difficult time with it if they didn't weld it on.
Halfway done...
Done. That is the paint I used. 4 coats, with the last being pretty heavy. Two cans to do the job. Arm on the right is wet...one on left is completely dry. Flat black.
Started on the calipers today as well. One piston out...seal exposed and boot removed.
Second piston out...
Pretty darn simple...
Second caliper tear down...removing boot.
Had a piston play difficult with me...small oil filter wrench aided with its removal.
Torn down...thoroughly cleaned...and prepped for paint.
First side. Three coats. Ran out of time...Will let this side cure over night and paint the other side tomorrow. Gear box getting painted tomorrow as well.
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