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Totally comfortable with how it is. It has been babied by my wife since we had it. Not gonna be doing any off-roading to speak of with it. Just the red dirt roads around the farm up in Arkansas.
Difference in rotors between '00-'05 Excursion and '07 Super Duty:
2007 Front Rotor: Outside Diameter: 13.66 in
Nominal Thickness: 38 mm
Discard Thickness: 36.4 mm
Bolt Circle Diameter: 6.69 in Total Swept Area (sq. in.): 306.4
2001 Front Rotor: Outside Diameter: 13.03 in
Nominal Thickness: 38.1 mm
Discard Thickness: 36 mm
Bolt Circle Diameter: 6.69 in Total Swept Area (sq. in.): 264.48
2007 Rear Rotor: Outside Diameter: 13.39 in
Nominal Thickness: 34 mm
Bolt Circle Diameter: 6.69 in
Discard Thickness: 32.4 mm Total Swept Area (sq. in.): 272.01
2001 Rear Rotor: Outside Diameter: 12.83 in
Nominal Thickness: 30.1 mm
Bolt Circle Diameter: 6.69 in
Discard Thickness: 28 mm Total Swept Area (sq. in.): 244.81
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Difference in Calipers between '00-'05 Excursion and '07 Super Duty:
2007 Front Caliper:
Brake Piston Count: 2
Piston Material: Phenolic
Inlet Port Size: 3/8 x 24
Bleeder Port Size: 3/8 x 24 Piston Size (OD): 2.356"
2001 Front Caliper:
Brake Piston Count: 2
Piston Material: Phenolic
Bleeder Port Size: 3/8 x 24 Piston Size (OD): 2.12"
2007 Rear Caliper:
Brake Piston Count: 2 Piston Size (OD): 1.89"
Piston Material: Phenolic
Inlet Port Size: 3/8 x 24
Bleeder Port Size: 3/8 x 24
2001 Rear Caliper:
Brake Piston Count: 2 Piston Size (OD): 1.75"
Piston Material: Phenolic
Bleeder Port Size: 3/8 x 24
Do you have the specs for the '13+ brake rotors and calipers as well?
What year Super Duty got the longer rear leaf springs? I recall seeing someone else on the forum installing the longer, updated rear leafs fairly easy on an Excursion/older Super Duty...is that what you're going to be doing with yours?
Algae growing on this one, too. Most of the reddish brown stuff is dirt...not rust.
Steering gear is good. Lots of cleanup and disassemly to do to check all systems/parts.
- I do know I need a new steering arm. The rubber boot up at the pitman arm is torn.
-The track bar looks and feels good on first examination. The ball joint at the bottom is solid and boot is good, so I need to check the bushing at the top end for wear.
- I found PowerStop brakes on sale @ Rockauto until the 29th for a very good price. Heavy duty tow kit for front for $197 after 15% sale. Rotors pads and hardware in the kit.
- rebuild kit for front calipers is under $20 (combined) for both rotors. Gonna try again, and will be much more careful extracting the pistons this time. Got the kits from RockAuto as well.
Tires and wheels still up in the air. I have some nice 17" rims that came with the axles. I might strip them and paint them black. I would still have to buy tires @ ~$600 for a set though. There are good deals on CL to be had for take-offs, sometimes you can get new tires with the rims for under $800-1000. Just have to keep an eye out.
Front axle will proceed much slower than the rear. More parts to look at, and potentially more money to get it to 100%. I'll get hubs/bearings checked over next few days at a minimum.
- rebuild kit for front calipers is under $20 (combined) for both rotors. Gonna try again, and will be much more careful extracting the pistons this time. Got the kits from RockAuto as well.
To get those pistons out like butter, take the calipers off, put a piece of plywood in them where the rotor would go and apply air into the brake line fitting. They will pop right out, easy peasy.
- I do know I need a new steering arm. The rubber boot up at the pitman arm is torn.
If the radial and axial play in the tie rod end is within spec and you just need a new boot I like the polyurethane ones from energy suspension.
Number one killer of tie rod ends is torn boots and grime getting inside.
To get those pistons out like butter, take the calipers off, put a piece of plywood in them where the rotor would go and apply air into the brake line fitting. They will pop right out, easy peasy.
I did that on the rear, but too much air pressure. Piston chipped after hitting the wood and bouncing back. Just gotta watch air pressure this time.
If the radial and axial play in the tie rod end is within spec and you just need a new boot I like the polyurethane ones from energy suspension.
Number one killer of tie rod ends is torn boots and grime getting inside.
-The track bar looks and feels good on first examination. The ball joint at the bottom is solid and boot is good, so I need to check the bushing at the top end for wear.
.
Even brand new the stock track bar on these era F250 do not "look good" because they are not well designed. A tiny bit of play in the ball joint ( you will be hard pressed to feel the play by hand ) will induce death wobble and the rubber upper bushing Is just dumb.
My brand new 2006 f350 developed death wobble in 20k miles and from my research that is not uncommon.
Luckily in my position in the off road industry I have access to many great companies and know good engineers so I spend a fair amount of time and effort researching this subject. The general consensus is Ford screwed the pooch on the track bar design. And the Track Bar is the most common source of the dreaded death wobble.
On my current linked Excursion I made my own track bar using beefy 1.25" heims that are mounted in brackets that double capture the bolt.
The only company I know of that makes a double captured track bar setup is Baja Customs. Trac-inator
Carli Designs makes a bar that has a heim on one end and the lower end uses iroved geometry to reduce wear on the ball joint. Ford Adjustable Trackbar
PMF makes a beefy track bar that uses rebuidable joints so at least you can keep the cost down when they wear out. They also make a beefy upper mount that helps cure the problem of the bolt on mount loosening up. 2005-15 Ford F-250/350 HD Solid Mount Adjustable Trackbar
At the very least, even if you think your track bar is good I would put a new lower ball joint on it and a new polyurethane bushing from energy suspension on it, at least that way you have a fresh start.
The Baja Customs is my favorite ( and proven ) design for a upgraded track bar however this one looks promising because it uses a standard heim joint on each end.
The issue I see is that by raising the bar above the stock mount you are changing the arc so you would need to correct the pitman arm angle to avoid inducing bumpsteer into the system.
May be worth calling these guys and discussing their design.
I would love one of those upgraded track bars, but budget won't allow it with all the other parts I'm having to replace. I'm also NEVER going to lift this thing beyond the stock F250 setup going on it, and at least two of those upgrades requires a lift.
While waiting for more funds, I'll be painting the steering gear and a few other things. I'll post progress on that in the meantime.
$10 and it fit over the pitman arm perfectly.
That boot is done...
Passenger side tie rod needs a boot...
Driver's side, too...
Upper track bar bolt and tools.
Driver's side sway bar bushing looks new
Passenger side sway bar bushing also good.
Upper sway bar bushings look ok. Part number shown. (5484)
Upper track bar bushing Pirate is talking about. This one looks brand new.
On the bright side, I got grease zerks in my stub axle u-joints.
I got good 17" rims, they just need to be black. I really want a set of 18" rims. Budget will determine this choice.
Removed the track bar today. Used a 1 1/8 pickle fork to free it from the taper on the ball joint. Found the ball joint is the original from the factory...and it was shot (like Pirate suggested it would be). Gonna get the heavy duty Moog problem solver ball joint from PMF with the grease zerk - $40.
This arrived while I was stripping the clear coat off the rims:
For those that have never broke in/set their own pads before...
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