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So are you betting on getting to a million? That is an impressive amount of mileage Ed.
kind of don't want to let it go anymore because I've been in it for so long. you got to realize that this is what I do for a living is drive so I'm in the truck all the time it seems like.
the truck has been real good to me I would hate to Let It Go.
as far as 1 million miles yes maybe I could see that happening. And I will be sure to post it on this thread if it happens.
I may be completely misremembering this, but I believe the higher RPM is better as it keeps oil splashed in the cylinders (the walls get washed by fuel at low RPM). The fuel will also not be completely burned off and start to seep into the oil, contaminating it. Running up from idle keeps things from building up, as stated.
I recently put the high idle on my truck. It's a two-step process. One switch kicks it up to around 900 RPM. The second switch activates a potentiometer that I can dial the RPM from 900 to 2,400.
Ok. That's what I was thinking. I know that we idled our 06 5.4 E350 A Lot for the first half of this winter and it bothered me that I did not have an idle advance on it.
In the winter it always gets a 15 minute plus warm up . but we spent a lot of time parked with it idling. I'm still trying to find a good mechanic shop locally that can install things like an idle advance ect. ECT. And not have problems down the line .
The F350 6.2 will primarily be a winter truck. So how the engine acts in real cold is foremost in my mind.
Not, cold starting, as I run lots of electricity to my vehicle heaters. Or will overnight them in a warm garage.
I may be completely misremembering this, but I believe the higher RPM is better as it keeps oil splashed in the cylinders (the walls get washed by fuel at low RPM). The fuel will also not be completely burned off and start to seep into the oil, contaminating it. Running up from idle keeps things from building up, as stated.
I recently put the high idle on my truck. It's a two-step process. One switch kicks it up to around 900 RPM. The second switch activates a potentiometer that I can dial the RPM from 900 to 2,400.
The 6.2 dosen't rely on splash to lube the cylinder walls they have a system to keep them lubed. Back in the days of carborators yes there was always problems with fuel getting past the rings and into the crankcase because during extreme cold carburetors don't atomize the fuel until the choke opened up and the manifold warmed up. With port fuel injection the fuel is metered and atomized so the chance of fuel delution on a properly operating motor would be rare. I grew up in northern MN and I have first hand experience with extreme cold and gas motors. The reason newer motors are lasting longer is because of fuel injection and computer controls for better fuel management at all temps and loads, no more dumping excess fuel into the motor.
I may be completely misremembering this, but I believe the higher RPM is better as it keeps oil splashed in the cylinders (the walls get washed by fuel at low RPM). The fuel will also not be completely burned off and start to seep into the oil, contaminating it. Running up from idle keeps things from building up, as stated.
I recently put the high idle on my truck. It's a two-step process. One switch kicks it up to around 900 RPM. The second switch activates a potentiometer that I can dial the RPM from 900 to 2,400.
The 6.2 dosen't rely on splash to lube the cylinder walls they have a system to keep them lubed. Back in the days of carborators yes there was always problems with fuel getting past the rings and into the crankcase because during extreme cold carburetors don't atomize the fuel until the choke opened up and the manifold warmed up. With port fuel injection the fuel is metered and atomized so the chance of fuel delution on a properly operating motor would be rare. I grew up in northern MN in the 60s and I have first hand experience with extreme cold and gas motors. The reason newer motors are lasting longer is because of fuel injection and computer controls for better fuel management at all temps and loads, no more dumping excess fuel into the motor.
135k is nothing if regular maintenance was performed. There is a guy on here. "Flatbed Ed" He has over 375k miles. These motors are very reliable. I have almost 24k without a single issue. Lots of guys with over 100k with no major problems. Depends if you maintain them. Change oil and other fluids when your supposed too and you'll be fine. Check on service records before buying your truck. Good luck!
I am currently in a 2004 Ford F3 56 L diesel. Even though the vehicle has only 66,000 miles I’m thinking of trading it in for a 2019 or 2020 lariat four-door F250. Sensi plow snow for a living I am concerned about the 6.2 L engine for durability and performance. The 2019 with 25,000 miles seemed very sluggish. Is it worth the extra money to get another diesel 6.7?
I am currently in a 2004 Ford F350 6.0 Litre diesel. Even though the vehicle has only 66,000 miles I’m thinking of trading it in for a 2019 or 2020 lariat four-door F250. I plow snow for a living & am concerned about the 6.2 L engine for durability and performance. The 2019 with 25,000 miles seemed very sluggish. Is it worth The extra money?
Last edited by Chuck Dugal; Feb 28, 2020 at 06:59 PM.
Reason: Misspelling
I am currently in a 2004 Ford F350 6.0 Litre diesel. Even though the vehicle has only 66,000 miles I’m thinking of trading it in for a 2019 or 2020 lariat four-door F250. I plow snow for a living & am concerned about the 6.2 L engine for durability and performance. The 2019 with 25,000 miles seemed very sluggish. Is it worth The extra money?
If you felt it was sluggish, and that seems to be an important factor to you, then I'd say it's NOT worth the extra money(your money).
I would also say that I would rather plow with gas in a heartbeat over a diesel. Faster warm-up, less likely to get stuck, less issues with emission systems, cheaper buy-in and maintenance costs.
I'd be all over a 6.2 with 4.30 gearing.
OK...the big question is: What weight of oil did you use?
The factory-recommended 5W-20 or the rebellious 5W-30?
On the original 1st motor I used Mobil 1 5w 30 extended oil.
On the Reman Ford Motor I have now I am using Ford 5w 20 blend oil. I now have 290,000 on the 2nd motor.
I would love to get Ed’s miles out of this. Mainly daily driver. Weekend warrior projects. Pontoon puller. And small time farming. Can count the number of heavy loads a year on both hands easily. So far 6.2 has been great. 35,000 trouble free miles.
Done:
Brakes - once
Spark plugs - once (just had them done)
Air filter - 3 or 4 times
Mobil 1 Full Synthetic every 5K miles with a Ford oil filter
Tires - once
Tires rotated every 10K miles
Turn signal bulbs - 4 or 5 times
