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But this isn't something I came up with. Adjusting the rocker arms with the engine running is actually a pretty common practice, and some argue it's more effective than adjusting them with the engine off. Most just don't do it because, without something to keep the oil from going everywhere, it's insanely messy!!
They do sell clips that you can hook to your rockers to block the oil so you can do it though:
I would be prone to go to 1/2 turn and see how things go. 1/2 to 3/4 turn is factory setting on most older hydraulic lifters.
I've set solid lifters with the engine running using a piece of garden hose to listen. It was an old 292 Y block, and the rocker tips were worn around the valve stem tip to the point a feeler gauge would give 2-3 times the amount of clearance called for.
Listening for the right amount of clatter per the exhaust and intake made for a great running, relatively quite 292.
Well, I passed the 1000 mile mark on the engine on Saturday.
My wife and I took it out on a pleasure cruise to Oregon and back (about 200 miles) to get out for the day, and to stretch the engine's legs for the first time. I've taken it out on the interstate since we use it to get from one end of the city to the other, but I haven't been out of town with it yet.
Even though the speed limit is 80, I did 75 the whole way, just to get a better grasp on the gas mileage since that's the speed I used to go.
Man, talk about luxurious! It felt like it was barely working.
Cruising AFR was around 15:1 with around 9 - 10hg engine vacuum.
And going up grades felt like an afterthought. I used to be excited when I could maintain speed at full throttle up the steeper grades, but now I didn't even have to. What a difference.
And smooth!
I gotta plan a road trip.
Side note: The chirping is back, and I haven't had a chance to mess with it again due to family being in town. But I do have a call into Comp, and they're going to get back with me, whether it's with something new to try, or just warrantying out the parts.
Oh, I actually meant to comment on that and forgot.
I've been averaging around 11.5 - 12 around town, which is already better than the engine I yanked out.
On my trip, I got around 14.5. Not as high as I would have hoped, but not too bad for 75mph. Plus, both ways, we got stuck in about 30 minutes of stop and go road construction.
I'll be curious how it does once a couple thousand miles are on the engine and it's all nice and settled.
Sorry if this is random but I'm New and this looked like the most relatable post. But im doing a 385 series 460 rebuild I took it to my local machine shop the guy quoted me $3900 with 9:1 compression does sound reasonable ?
Sorry if this is random but I'm New and this looked like the most relatable post. But im doing a 385 series 460 rebuild I took it to my local machine shop the guy quoted me $3900 with 9:1 compression does sound reasonable ?
My entire build was around $4500, so it isn't too unreasonable. However, I also had to go above and beyond on a few things due to working on an engine that doesn't have off the shelf performance parts.
A standard rebuild is usually around $2000 - $2500, so if you're looking to beef it up with performance stuff, it just goes up from there.
I'm going in Friday for a complete breakdown but I told him I want a performance engine from just the conversion over the phone he said it'll be premium internals no carb or external parts I think he said a .030 bore
If that's the case, that sounds like a decent price. As long as he does good work.
A lot of builders will just go straight for the 0.060 bore, simply because it adds more displacement, but only going 30 over shows good restraint. I did 30 over on mine, just in case anything happens in the future. It was enough to clean it up nicely, and allows me to bore it again and not have to search for a new block.
So, I was talking to my machinist this morning about the chirping noise from the rockers. He's completely at as much of a loss as I am.
However, he called a guy he knows who said they have had some issues with this and that the pressure from roller ball rockers with high lift setups can sometimes break down the oils, which makes them chirp. They've solved the issue by switching to synthetic.
I think roller rockers is a better long term fix. But as long as your break in miles are already put on the engine. The synthetic oil swap is a lot cheaper option.
Hmmm....after looking at previous pics in this thread, i wonder if a fixture in the machining process of either the socket, or ball isnt concentric with the other? Doesnt make sense to have shiny spots in certain areas, and dark in other spots. In any case....if the synthetic works, its a relatively cheap fix. If not, it wont hurt the engine. Additives like a stabilizer may due the trick with standard stuff. Or you could go big and go full 5 qts of synthetic and 1 qt stabilizer to cover all bases.
There are a number of synthetics on the market and I'm no expert, but do believe they're not all equal. I use Rotella in the blue jug in my 300s and many other engines and have had good luck with it, but then again I don't have what you'd call hi performance engines.
Good luck regardless and agree on what has been said; it's cheap to try it.
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