Engine Rebuild Part 2
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
Kind of seems like a waste of money to me. I'd just go full roller. You already told me the slots weren't the issue. The chirp is most likely coming from the pivot ball area. So why spend that much money on ones that still have the pivot ball?
Have you checked to see if they offer the BBC rockers in a 1.6 ratio? I know you can get the sbc rockers in 1.5, 1.6, 1.7. Maybe the BBC are the same way.
Have you checked to see if they offer the BBC rockers in a 1.6 ratio? I know you can get the sbc rockers in 1.5, 1.6, 1.7. Maybe the BBC are the same way.
Fordman, one of the links I posted was bbc rockers with 1.6 ratio.
I had no idea steel r.rockers were available until pmuller9 posted that link, saying he preferred steel for the strength. You'll make the right decision for you. Oh, and funny enough, regarding what your machinist said about the manufacturer stating what type of engine or engines a part fit: I don't think either Ford or GM would EVER say if their part fit the other manufacturer's engine. That would be blasphemy.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,293
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
I know Crower sells them but I just wasn't sure if Comp or anyone else still offered them. I'm going with the Crower stainless steel rockers on mine. But their prices are a little nuts. I think they are around $40.00 a rocker.
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Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
The main thought I had on the Comp ones are:
If you're proposing OEM Ford ones from a junk yard would work, then why not these? Anything from a junk yard is probably going to be have hundreds of thousands of miles on them and have wear and slop. Comp is most likely going to be a bit higher quality than the NOS stock replacement stuff I got off eBay.
There must be a reason they're lengthening that slot. Even if it isn't hitting, maybe it's still causing some issue?
Lastly because these are $150, out the door.
Rollers are going to be about $500. ($300 for the rockers, $50 for the stud replacements, probably all new push rods due to length differences, so another $75, a spacer for the valve cover from CNCDude, if he can get me one, which is another $50 - $75).
I'm not against rollers, I think they'd be great. Just weighing other options.
If you're proposing OEM Ford ones from a junk yard would work, then why not these? Anything from a junk yard is probably going to be have hundreds of thousands of miles on them and have wear and slop. Comp is most likely going to be a bit higher quality than the NOS stock replacement stuff I got off eBay.
There must be a reason they're lengthening that slot. Even if it isn't hitting, maybe it's still causing some issue?
Lastly because these are $150, out the door.
Rollers are going to be about $500. ($300 for the rockers, $50 for the stud replacements, probably all new push rods due to length differences, so another $75, a spacer for the valve cover from CNCDude, if he can get me one, which is another $50 - $75).
I'm not against rollers, I think they'd be great. Just weighing other options.
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Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
I agree with fordman. But I think that if I could get a set of oem rockers from the j/y inexpensively I'd try that first. One of the links you posted AB, I believe jalopyjournal, about the squeaking, the guy had roller tip rockers, so maybe that wouldn't be the way to go?
Oh, and funny enough, regarding what your machinist said about the manufacturer stating what type of engine or engines a part fit: I don't think either Ford or GM would EVER say if their part fit the other manufacturer's engine. That would be blasphemy.
Very true. But if Comp was making them, would they care what Ford or GM thought? They'd just label them differently.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,182
Likes: 380
From: Near Los Angeles
Would installing r.rockers mean getting new p.rods?
You're right. That's a huge amount of money to make the change. On ebay I noticed they had the comp rr's (bbc) with 3/8" stud. You might make a call to comp and see if they have/make a set with the magic 1.6 ratio, and 3/8" stud. http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-Cams-Ro...dU~5yf&vxp=mtr
That would be great.
PS: A couple of things occurred to me. Maybe it is the newness, tightness, that is causing the squeak. Maybe they just need to wear a bit. About the slop of j/y rockers: tightening them onto p.rods and v.stems doesn't really leave much room for slop.
You're right. That's a huge amount of money to make the change. On ebay I noticed they had the comp rr's (bbc) with 3/8" stud. You might make a call to comp and see if they have/make a set with the magic 1.6 ratio, and 3/8" stud. http://www.ebay.com/itm/COMP-Cams-Ro...dU~5yf&vxp=mtr
That would be great.
PS: A couple of things occurred to me. Maybe it is the newness, tightness, that is causing the squeak. Maybe they just need to wear a bit. About the slop of j/y rockers: tightening them onto p.rods and v.stems doesn't really leave much room for slop.
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Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
I'm assuming new push rods. The stamped ones are designed to fit a stock engine, so I imagine they're extremely close to the same size I have now. Rollers have the roller tip. Plus, being from a different engine (BBC) are probably slightly different. It might be enough to tip the rocker arm one way or another. Who knows, might be just right as is.
I thought about it being the newness and it needing to "wear in". But the odd fact that it keeps coming back even when I get it to go away makes that seem unlikely to me. I also saw some videos on youtube of people complaining about similar issues, and that with over 5000 miles on the engine, it still wasn't going away.
One thought I had. What about oil deflectors? One thing I noticed when I was running the engine with the valve cover off is how often the oil would shoot over the rocker, even at idle. Yeah, the rockers are full of oil, but maybe it's not enough?
Something like these?
I thought about it being the newness and it needing to "wear in". But the odd fact that it keeps coming back even when I get it to go away makes that seem unlikely to me. I also saw some videos on youtube of people complaining about similar issues, and that with over 5000 miles on the engine, it still wasn't going away.
One thought I had. What about oil deflectors? One thing I noticed when I was running the engine with the valve cover off is how often the oil would shoot over the rocker, even at idle. Yeah, the rockers are full of oil, but maybe it's not enough?
Something like these?
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 6,293
Likes: 47
From: South central, Minnesota
The main thought I had on the Comp ones are:
If you're proposing OEM Ford ones from a junk yard would work, then why not these? Anything from a junk yard is probably going to be have hundreds of thousands of miles on them and have wear and slop. Comp is most likely going to be a bit higher quality than the NOS stock replacement stuff I got off eBay.
There must be a reason they're lengthening that slot. Even if it isn't hitting, maybe it's still causing some issue?
Lastly because these are $150, out the door.
Rollers are going to be about $500. ($300 for the rockers, $50 for the stud replacements, probably all new push rods due to length differences, so another $75, a spacer for the valve cover from CNCDude, if he can get me one, which is another $50 - $75).
I'm not against rollers, I think they'd be great. Just weighing other options.
If you're proposing OEM Ford ones from a junk yard would work, then why not these? Anything from a junk yard is probably going to be have hundreds of thousands of miles on them and have wear and slop. Comp is most likely going to be a bit higher quality than the NOS stock replacement stuff I got off eBay.
There must be a reason they're lengthening that slot. Even if it isn't hitting, maybe it's still causing some issue?
Lastly because these are $150, out the door.
Rollers are going to be about $500. ($300 for the rockers, $50 for the stud replacements, probably all new push rods due to length differences, so another $75, a spacer for the valve cover from CNCDude, if he can get me one, which is another $50 - $75).
I'm not against rollers, I think they'd be great. Just weighing other options.
My point is if you spend $150 on those rockers and still have the same issue you basically wasted $150 that could have went towards the full roller rockers.
I'd try the JY rockers first. It's the cheapest option. If the noise goes away you know the problem was the rockers that were on the engine. Then if you want to pick up a set of the roller tip rockers go for it. I personally wouldn't spend the money on roller tip rockers. But it's your cash and your engine. So if you want them go for it.
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Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
My point is if you spend $150 on those rockers and still have the same issue you basically wasted $150 that could have went towards the full roller rockers.
I'd try the JY rockers first. It's the cheapest option. If the noise goes away you know the problem was the rockers that were on the engine. Then if you want to pick up a set of the roller tip rockers go for it. I personally wouldn't spend the money on roller tip rockers. But it's your cash and your engine. So if you want them go for it.
I'd try the JY rockers first. It's the cheapest option. If the noise goes away you know the problem was the rockers that were on the engine. Then if you want to pick up a set of the roller tip rockers go for it. I personally wouldn't spend the money on roller tip rockers. But it's your cash and your engine. So if you want them go for it.
The Comp ones aren't roller tip, just stamped steel. A few modifications here and there for higher performance setups though.
If I remember right, previously, the stud was a lot taller and would get in the way of the oil stream, making it splash down. On these, it only rises about 1/8" - 1/4" above the nut, so sometimes the oil goes right over. Just a thought.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 544
Likes: 6
From: Kalispell, MT
Looks like you're in luck. My spare block had a full set. Shoot me a PM when you can.
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Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 7,987
Likes: 104
From: Boise, Idaho
A small update. I now have almost 600 miles on the engine, so I did another compression test.
1 - 175
2 - 172
3 - 176
4 - 173
5 - 175
6 - 173
That is nice and tight!! I'm happy with it.
1 - 175
2 - 172
3 - 176
4 - 173
5 - 175
6 - 173
That is nice and tight!! I'm happy with it.
