That makes perfect sense, and yeah, now that I think about what you're saying, I can definitely see how that would be a really difficult thing to mess up, considering that the holes are already pre-existing, and aligned from the factory. It'd be hard to botch up.

As said, I'm just kinda floundering with ideas here. I have no idea, and I just can't think of anything that would be causing this, unless somehow they're just not getting the oil that they need. But every time I've run it with the cover off, there's plenty. They'll be squeaking with the rocker ball deep in a lake of oil.

 

what kind of oil are you running? have you considered any additives?

 

I originally ran it with 5w30 break-in oil for the first 500 miles. Pretty quality/expensive stuff.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/j...wv5xoC_wjw_wcB

My machinist suggested to keep going with the break-in oil while we're figuring out the rocker arm issue, but a thicker one just in case, so at 500 miles I did an oil change with more of the same, except 10w40 (which is in it right now). The thicker oil didn't make any difference.

What kind of additives are you thinking?

 

I'll preface this post by saying I've never had personal experience with rocker chirping. Unfortunately it doesn't sound like many other have either...which, I'm sure makes it all the more frustrating.
I have, however, had good results with lucas oil stabilizer additives. they also make a "break in" supplement to maintain ZDDP. hyper-lube also makes one that I've had good results.
A fella I know that lives here in Kalispell, who built engines and has raced circle track for 40+ years swears by STP oil treatment to quiet down noises as well. Claims its the best thing since sliced bread. I have yet to try it though.
It'll be interesting to hear about your findings once you scope out the noisy ones here soon. Take a look at them compared to a not-so-noisy one?
What does the hardware/fastener stack look like for the rockers? Just using a single nut to hold everything down per stud?
Obviously you've ensured they were all torqued down proper for install. Have you put a torque wrench to them now that they have squeaked again? See if maybe some have come loose?

 

situations like these also reinforce my reasoning for trying to put together a two piece valve cover with a removable top/lid...seems like it'd make inspecting and adjustments so much easier.
Have you tried adjusting torque values on the nuts? they may be too tight, instead of too loose. Do you recall which ones were chirping before you swapped to the new set? might the same ones be making the noise again? may help you narrow the scope of your search. if there's play in the nut torque if/when you check for looseness, I'd suggest using two nuts per stud. once you achieve the torque value you want with the first nut...hold it in place with a wrench, and run another nut down on top of it and snug it down and torque that one as well. That way it won't go anywhere. may have to grind down a wrench to make it fit...but it has worked for me in the past.

 

Yeah, it seems like it's leaving everyone scratching their heads, including my machinist. He has no idea, unfortunately.

I had thought about some kind of oil additives/etc. but I imagine the break-in oil I have now has a lot of that extra stuff in it. They're certainly worth a try though.

I'll definitely be comparing a noisy vs. not noisy one when I look at them here soon. Who knows, maybe this time there's only one and I just need to warranty it out? Keep doing that until I have a full set of non-squeaky ones? Who knows.

My setup is a single nut on a 3/8" stud. The nut is crimped so that it doesn't back off, much like the ones with a nylon insert. It takes some good effort to rotate them, and they can even be a little warm after removing them due to the friction. They're definitely not going to back off by themselves. Even then, there's not enough room on the end of the stud for another nut.





Due to being adjustable, they're not really torqued (like stock). Make sure the valve is 100% closed (cam lobe facing away from the lifter), then tighten the nut down until there's zero lash (can't move the rocker tip away from the valve stem / can't move the push rod up and down) and then give them another 1/4 to put some pre-load on the lifter. Not much to it.

I've thought about them being too tight, but I also tried adjusting them while the engine was running. Back them off until they clack, then tighten them until they stop, then another 1/4 turn. It didn't seem to make much difference. And yes, a valve cover with an accessible top is great.



Thanks for tossing ideas back and forth. Something's gotta be causing it, so it's just a matter of nailing down what.

 

AB, I am out of my "working zone", and I know you have said much oil is flowing with the engine running, but what if there is one or more rockers that are for some reason not getting oil to the "right" spot? How about letting the engine idle with your modified valve cover on and take an oiler or aerosol lubricant of some type and spray the rockers one by one to see if the noise varies?

 

Hrmm.... I like that idea. I'm going to try that!

Out of curiosity, does the 300 have a valve of some sort for the oil filter? If so, is it replaceable?

 

a "valve" for the oil filter? something in the block, you mean?

 

Yeah. I was passing this issue by my dad, and he mentioned some engines have a bypass valve in the block where the filter screws on, to keep oil flowing back out when the engine is off. I didn't think ours had it, but I never really looked (and if so, I know I didn't change it), so was curious.

 

I'll take a look into my shop manual when I get home. Didn't think the 300 had it either...but I've been wrong before.

 

Better quality oil filters [i.e. Motorcraft, Napa Gold, Purolator Pure 1] have an anti-siphon valve, to prevent the emptying of the filter after engine shutdown.

 

that makes sense. I do love motorcraft filters. Always try to match a MC filter to any vehicle I'm driving.

 

Update:

So, I ran it this morning with my open valve cover and was able to track down which rockers were chirping.
(From the front) #4, #9, #12
I was trying to think of where to try to oil them, but everything was just bathed. It was visibly splashing all over the stem tips, the ball was submerged, oil was flowing like a river down the sides of the push rod, etc. Adding more seemed a wasted effort.

So, I decided to try adjusting them while running. I loosened the first one until I could hear it clacking and then put the stethoscope on it again.

No chirp.

I then tightened it down just until it stopped clacking, and then another 1/8 to 1/4 turn for good measure. Still no chirp.

I then did the other two, and had the same success. Engine was once again whisper quiet.

Took it for a test drive, down the interstate and back, etc. Still no chirp.

So... again, I'll give it a few before I can rest easy, but it also may take a few "applications" before I get it right, but I'm glad I was able to make it go away!

 

I think we should take up a collection and buy AB a set if r.rockers. It is painful to read about you adjusting the valves like that. You have more courage than I!