Engine Rebuild Part 2
I hate to quote Sherlock Holmes, but: "When you've eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth."
I started thinking about the pushrod checking writeups I'd read and every one of them said to use a "dry erase marker" on the valve stem tips. I'd been using a regular permanent marker I had at home.
Permanent marker smudges and smears when it's wet and then doesn't come off when it's dry. (I had to use a dab of cleaner to remove it off the valve). So, I got a dry erase marker and repeated my tests.
This is with the regular 10.08" undersized push rod.
I tested it several times. Pretty dead center.
A few of the others were a little off one way or another, but most were very right down the middle. I think the marker simply may have been my issue.
Can also see the rocker resting to the right of center when it's closed.
And to the left of center when open.
I did lay a straight edge across the top of the valve stems and the exhausts did seem to sit a tad lower than the intakes, you may have been right about that!
My machinist also said that stamped rockers aren't exactly the most precise either. He's found 1.6 rockers to vary anywhere between 1.58 and 1.62, just due to tolerances. He said on one race build, they went through over ten full sets of rocker arms before they got a full set that gave each valve the exact same amount of lift.
I'm not making a race motor, and I don't really feel like doing that.
The 10.08" push rods are also all quite close enough, so I think I'm going to go with them. Otherwise, I'm probably looking at a different length pushrod for every valve, but I just don't have the budget for that.
It's good to double check your work. Looks like I'm going to need some custom pushrods. I'll be able to use the "stock" undersized pushrods of 10.080" for 7 of the valves. The majority of the rest liked a 10.000" rod. And one liked a 9.900" (although was "acceptable" with a 10.000")
Front of Engine
Cyl 1
Intake: 10.080"
Exhaust: 10.080"
Cyl 2
Intake: 10.080"
Exhaust: 10.080"
Cyl 3
Intake: 10.000"
Exhaust: 10.000"
Cyl 4
Intake: 10.080"
Exhaust: 10.000"
Cyl 5
Intake: 10.080"
Exhaust: 10.000"
Cyl 6
Intake: 10.080"
Exhaust: 9.900"
Back of Engine
Does anyone happen to know another engine that uses 10" pushrods that would fit?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...2-12/overview/
They look like they'd fit just fine and can be had in a 2 pack, like here:
Crane Cams 20622-2: PUSHROD HEAT TREAT PKG/2 | JEGS
However, their website and a few others say they are to be "used with aluminum rocker arms".
Does this mean only? Or does this mean that they can be used with aluminum rocker arms and are okay with steel ones?
Thanks.
But, they keep lots of different lengths in stock, and they're decently priced.
Push Rods - Stocking Push Rods
Their catalog says $6.16 a pushrod. Then another dollar for 210° clearance, which I think our push rods have stock, so $7.16ea.
Either way, I'll get two 9.900" rods (1 spare) and five 10.000" rods (1 spare) for about $50 plus shipping.
They're made by Wolverine Blue Racer, which is (was?) owned by Crane Cams. The name Crane Technologies Group is on the box, too.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Received my second Remflex gasket and it was the same thing as the first one. Box was too short, so they made a cap out of another box and shoved it on, which bent the gasket, damaging it. I've spoken directly to Amazon about it, and they said they'll address it before shipping another one.
So... guess we'll see!
In other news, my push rods showed up today. At least those are right! I'll dive in tomorrow and start putting it all together.
I opened up my lifters to install them tonight and after placing them in their bores, I noticed that some of them were sloppy and loose, while others were nice and snug.
Upon further inspection, I have 5 correct 0.875" lifters and 7 incorrect 0.842" lifters!!
The Chevy 292 uses the 0.842" so I'm guessing whoever put the rebuild kit together pick and mixed them.
How frustrating...
I'm just darn glad I noticed. If I hadn't noticed and fired up an engine with lifters that were a little loose in the bores, the cam would have probably been trashed within five minutes.
You aren't having much luck with parts are you?
Just keep at it and you'll get it done.See if you would have just ordered 3 sets of lifters you'd be all set to go!

Oh well, I'm just glad that caught it. And when it's all said and done, it'll all be a distant memory.
I called my machinist this morning and he said he'll get another set on the way immediately and they should be there tomorrow. I'll bring the other box back and we'll go through them and get 12 correct ones.
And K, you especially know how gun-shy I already am about lifters and cams....
I too got a lesson: always always always have a crank polished after being ground down. I was new to engine work and had no idea. But I got a quick $1,200 lesson.
I'm glad you caught the mismatch. We're all waiting to hear the beasty engine roar.









