Phone problem...sorry

 

Yes it has to be there, somewhere near 500 psi at idle all the way to 2800 psi (ICP) stock at WOT, so that whatever the PCM commands/decides is needed for optimal burn, at a given RPM, the oil pressure is already available for those brief 3.0 milliseconds or less when the IDM sends the voltage. The intensifier piston then converts the approximately 60 psi of fuel that is in the rail into approximately 20,000 psi of optimal atomization.

However, unless it's a big nasty leak, I guess the pressure on the fuel side may not rise that much. It depends on the volume of oil leaking past the o-rings.

Yes, exactly...or multiple injectors with o-ring problems. I did not have a fuel pressure gauge at the time that my o-rings were crapping the bed so I can't say either way. Yes, it would depend on the volume...I had a lot...a quart every 400 to 600 miles depending on how heavy I was towing and whether I was in the mountains or not and I had a bit more smoke than you.

To get this done:

New ORings,
New Glow Plugs (might as well)
Compression Test (since I'm there)
Glow Plug Adapter, 500 PSI gauge,

Yes to all.

Can I send my injectors out just to be tested - maybe to Alliant?

Ask the rest of these guys. I use Tim at P.I.S.

What do you guys use the evacuate fuel from the cyll when doing this job?

I simply remove the rearmost injector on each side first followed by the remaining in whatever order you choose, and then, once the injectors are back in, I "hand turn" the crank for several complete revolutions and then turn the engine over with the starter while "all of the glow plugs are still out" Cover the rear two cylinders with a heavy rag before you do this and make sure the first complete revolution is very slow. If you turn it fast it will blow the rags off and oil will be everywhere.

I only have a shop vac, but will buy a mighty vac if it makes my life easier on this job.

Riffraff has great instructions online...I don't believe they mention a mighty or shop vac unless it has changed.

I have the 13mm "special socket" for the valve covers. Any other special tools?

Not that I can think of....

 

Unless you have a regulated return, then back through the fuel lines:

 

You got more patience than me!

You've been chasing this issue for quite some time now. How many miles did you say the Ex has on it now?

If it's getting close to 200K than if it were me:

1: Pull the injectors to replace the O-rings. Two options to consider - either get them rebuilt (Tim at PIS or Jim at Rosewood Diesel) or replace them with a set of stage I single shots which are much better for towing IMO.

2. Drop the tank and do the in-tank mods, this needs to be done anyhow. Order a new pick up shoe, the excursions for some reason tend to drop the screens out more than the super duty's.

3. rebuild the turbo with the $100 kit from Riffraff

 

I don't see any hint of smoke in the videos you posted, but that fuel filter looks nasty......

 

I should point a couple of things out.

I hung my wrench up for about 8 months because of my frustration level with parts under the valve covers. The catalyst was the drive home from Reno: My IPR at idle was climbing over 10% and reaching for 11% at idle, and I heard a familiar knock building. Normal IPR on Stinky swings between 8% and 9% at idle. I know one might think "the change is only a couple of percent", but going from 8% IPR to 10% IPR is a 25% change from normal. While at the hotel (stopover in Bend, OR), I popped the top and found #2 injector to have 75 in/lbs of torque. Setting the torque to 125 in/lbs brought my IPR back down to the 8-9% at idle target - and the haunting knock was gone.

When my ICP sensor failed, it showed a crazy-low IPR throughout the running cycle - I think I remember 6%-7% at idle. The ICP sensor was reading normal, but the IPR made no sense and Stinky was gutless - no smoke and no go. This hinted that the ICP sensor could be reporting a higher pressure than actual. I pulled the connector to the ICP sensor, and that allowed me to finish my drive to work. While at work, I clean the connector and applied dielectric grease, then reconnected. The ICP sensor worked normal until I was home, then I parked Stinky and ordered a new ICP sensor.

We know you have oil in your fuel return - the black filter "clearly" demonstrates this. I vote make the truck stop blackening filters before anything else. You never know - a leaky injector O-ring just might hide a bad ICP sensor - because each gives opposite IPR clues.

 

I didn't realize how bad my issue was until I was towing 8000 lbs on secondary roads in Vermont.


Around 140K


I'm hoping that with 140K Miles that I should be good to go with what I have. Do these guys bench test injectors to see if they are good and don't need to be rebuilt?



That's on the list.

I double checked for play the other day. The intake side wheel feels good - no play, spins real easy.


That's the game plan. Hopefully next weekend.

 

Since we suspect bad o-rings. Should I compression test AFTER doing the new O-rings?

Also it should be done warm right, so, how warm is warm 120 degrees? 180 degrees?

If I do it cold will I get a legit baseline and good relative numbers?

For example if they are all close cold then they would all be close hot too, but possibly at a different value?

Does hot always result in a "better" number than cold? So If they are done cold and are good to go, hot only gets better. If they are marginal or poor cold, then a warm up and retry hot is in order?

 

yes, following this very closely. Thanks for all the information. I need to bite the bullet and get AE.

 

Yes, they will bench/flow test the injectors. You are actually better off getting your set remanned than buying a set of remanned according to Jim at Rosewood.

 

^X2^

Because when you buy a set of reman's sight unseen, you are rolling the dice and hoping that they have only been remanned once. You could actually be getting one or more that have been remanned several times. It makes them more difficult to match performance wise.

 

Thanks for the clarification! I was trying to find that thread about injectors that both Tim (PIS) and Jim (rosewood) chimed in on and gave us some insight on the process.

 

No problem sir! I need perpetual assistance...... Thank you for helping me and the rest of us in the past.

 

The 160/100 injector link in my signature... it's there.

 

Grassy *** 😎😎😎