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Looking at the pics on my phone, but They look good to me. Actually they look very clean.
Like posted above, you get some oil build up on and around the boots from the crank case vent. It's normal and the nature of the beast.
As far as the CAC tubes go the drivers side gets hot from the compressed air and the passenger side should be about 10-20 degrees hotter than outside air temps. So you should be able to hold your hand on the passenger side tube.
I wonder if a partially stuck EBPV can be the cause of your symptoms. But I'm not sure.
i'll throw some #'s, because it looks like me and tj are hitting the same #'s with a plugged redline.
Installed new dodge oil plug into IAH spot. got rid of jerryrig setup to feed manual gauge. Now taking MAP from T.Pro
"looped" the green/red lines at sensor to eliminate them.
tightened all cac clamps..
Am now able to see "spikes' in boost numbers where as before, was able to count up, with the gauge, when producing psi...12max. Now 15 woohoo (redline removed, lol)
will compare EBP, MAP, FORD SPECIFIC BOOST, to yours TJ.
have new ebp sensor/tube installed last year. Still have new bellows on shelf. Filters' clean
Clean and shiney boots, like tire gloss. The oil mist on them does look a little too much. Usually it's just seepage at the ends, not all over, and not so much on surfaces nearby. Might be worth the effort to remove and carefully inspect those boots. They do fail sometimes. Guys put kids thru college by selling better boots because the OEM is kinda wimpy.
tjmike have you replaced the intake plenums, I mean like reseal them?
What are the plenums sealed with? Is it some white stuff? I ask because my plenums have oil around the top lip on the drivers side and I can see a bit of white stuff squeezing out. So I think mine are leaking at the plenums causing my boost leaks.
Just thought I'd throw that out there so you can check yours out too
tjmike have you replaced the intake plenums, I mean like reseal them?
What are the plenums sealed with? Is it some white stuff? I ask because my plenums have oil around the top lip on the drivers side and I can see a bit of white stuff squeezing out. So I think mine are leaking at the plenums causing my boost leaks.
Just thought I'd throw that out there so you can check yours out too
It's pretty common to see the sealant squeezing out since all they used to seal the intake plenums was some RTV sealant. The best way to tell if you have a boost leak here is to do the boost leak test with some pressurized air.
Rich and I were "gossiping" about this yesterday. If you are absolutely positive there are no leaks anywhere, the EBPV isn't closing, and the wastegate is functioning correctly - it's time to look at that turbo. We've focused long and hard on leaks in attempt to save you money, but that Buck$Zooka just may need to be dusted off and loaded.
Yes, I strongly suspect the intake. An exhaust leak would make the EBP/MAP much closer to each other.
with respect to the redline plugged, would ^^^ statement hold true with numbers of 33psi epb, 30psi map/intake psi, and 15# boost(even though boost from map sensor starts at -.08)
with respect to the redline plugged, would ^^^ statement hold true with numbers of 33psi epb, 30psi map/intake psi, and 15# boost(even though boost from map sensor starts at -.08)
I see numbers that high and that close (at the same time) in two conditions:
My 38R turbo that can max out all sensors, with good flow in/out.
Exhaust leak (for sure) or clogged intake filter (theory - not many people let this happen and have the money for a scan tool).
I think the truck may be more gutless after it's been driven for a while. Also, I know someone asked about manifold temps. At the time I was seeing manifold temps about 10 degrees above intake temps - I think this was with the truck warmed up, WOT but not a huge towing load.
After driving for 5 or 6 hours, towing 8,000 lbs, I ***THINK*** I see manifold air temps in the 160 to 180 degree range. The reason I'm saying I **THINK** is that these data logs are from DashCommand and I have not yet verified that the PID is providing the same values that Torque would for manifold air temp.
Do those temps sound reasonable?
If no does this point to a candidate for may low boost, bouncy EBY and high EGT issues?
I had to back off the throttle to 35 MPH on a 6-7% grade in some cases to keep the passenger side EGTs under 1250....
I'll have to find just a cruising log. Here's one where it's working hard:
Here's cruising, it may be up a smaller hill....:
I think passenger sensor is biased 20 degrees hotter than the driver side one to start. I have another log file from a much less hilly road and the EGT diff varies from about 10 to 45 degrees (see above).
Nah, nah, nah.... If your sensors are accurately portraying what's going on in there, that is precisely what a bad hole looks like. You'll see anything from dead-even to about 75 degrees F differential, depending on the driving conditions. This calls for a laser thermometer that can read up to 600 - 700 degrees F. Aiming at each outlet on the manifold, it's hard to spot a bad hole during idle, but you'll see about 20-40 degrees difference.
