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Here's the only strange thing that I noticed. On cyll7 the glow plug adapter had a brownish fluid on it after the test. I did not notice anything on the glow plug.
It's Almost like an oil and water mix. My coolant is red, so I don't think it's coolant.
1) Remove 8mm bolt
2) Remove oil spout
3) Push the collar towards the valley so that it clears the bolt on the valley side
4) Holding the collar so its pushed towards the valley, pry up on the collar at the point closest to the valley.
Here is a write up I did on pulling the injectors and replacing the cups. Its not quite finished but will help you through it. I need to add it here, but you have to drain the oil out of the heads so not to hydro lock the motor. Take out the 2 allen head bolts from inside the valve cover near the top.
1) Do I need some kind of short pry bar to get the injectors out?
2) No need to pull the oil rail plugs right - just be sure to clear the cylinders?
3) Vacuum cyll through GP hole.
4) VCs OFF, GPs all out, lay cardboard or something over the open GPs and valve areas, turn over motor by hand- clockwise on the crank pulley nut, one bit at a time- BIG ratchet and grunts
5) all 8 GPs out - crank with 42 pin out to blow out anything missed by hand crank
6) Install GPs
Change oil and filter. It will likely be contaminated with fuel. Go ahead and fill HPOP about 3/4 of the way with fresh oil through the fill/inspection plug (#30 Torq, IIRC)
7) Will be hard to start - give it a few tries. Be sure to give the starter a rest
Be prepared for LOTS OF SMOKE (any oil in the cylinders makes its way through the exhaust)
If you have the spot to do it, park on a slight uphill, spray valley with Simple Green, then flush off with hose. Oil will run off the back of the motor onto the ground. Might want to use a catch pan or whatever.
8) give it 100 miles or so to get all air out of the system
Here is a write up I did on pulling the injectors and replacing the cups. Its not quite finished but will help you through it. I need to add it here, but you have to drain the oil out of the heads so not to hydro lock the motor. Take out the 2 allen head bolts from inside the valve cover near the top.
Clean those up as best as you can. It also makes it easier to coat the new O-rings in oil to get them on but not necessary. Dunk the injector into oil before putting it back into the bore. Don't loose the copper washer on the end.
Dunk or coat as long as it has a good covering of oil.
You can either remove the oil valley head plugs which requires more work and is messy or you could remove those allen bolts ( there are 2 of them per head). This will allow the oil to drain down to the pan and not into the cylinder heads. If oil got into the cylinder heads and you go to put it back together and fire the engine, you will hydro lock the motor. If the cylinders are full of oil you can either suck it out or turn the motor over by hand several times to clear it out.
Those O-rings are shot. I don't think that will impact boost and gets (that is usually a leaky up-pipe or loose boots) Those O-rings will impact the way the motor runs/sounds/vibrations.
Keep them coming.
