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A boost leak can show itself at low pressure, but you have to really look for it. I had about 5 PSI and the Simple Green bubbles out the intake plenum seal looked minor - but I can only speculate what it would have looked like if I had 20 or 30 PSI boost going on. I know for sure that the subtle bubbles were gone after replacing the plenums, and my boost/EBP/EGT numbers showed an obvious improvement.
Do you recall if there were signs of oil there too - or would you expect to see some signs of oil after 400 miles of towing?
I think I took these before tightening to make sure everything looked good.
Nice! I am a big fan of pics. I refer back to them all the time, and they help me convey ideas or answer question- even when I'm not sure of what/where the part is, the soot I'm looking for, etc
Now that you've driven it a ways, look in the back with a flashlight (engine off and cool is easiest) for soot anywhere, especially at any joints.
A buddy's borrowed boost leak detector (PVC cap with air hose connection and gauge) and air compressor dialed down to 30psi helped me find a leak in the passenger side boot to the manifold intake plenum, and then in the plenum itself
I'm waiting for a set of billet manifold intake plenums from Beans to arrive.
No specific problems, but towing up a long steep hill, 50-60mph was about it and it seemed like it should have more so I started looking....and logging...and posting, LOL.
Here's the first part, before I did the leak test (intake side). Compare the graphs to your own.
Do you recall if you saw oil as a tell that that there's a leak?
Ha, that's my leak detector.
I'll try to get some good photos of the back of the turbo in order to see if anything's going on back there.
I didn't see an "active" leak, but just replaced my valve cover gaskets and UVCH, so I have some oil residue on boots and stuff. Valley is pretty clean now, did that after the UVCH's
You can see that in my pics of the boot. It has an orange stripe where the clamp was
That was your leak detector? Well then...thanks for the suggestion! LOL.
Yeah, look for some soot. I may have more leaks, didn't really check the uppipes yet- planning on using the tailpipe method
Also, how responsive is the boost? Does it build boost pressure quickly or does it lag a bit then catch?
Here's a chart. First to second gear. Not full throttle but hard acceleration. I also have Intake and Manifold temps in the chart. I'm not positive what conditions we want to check them under. X Axis is minutes:seconds.tenths
Man... your EBP is all over the place in every chart and data set I see. Something is leaking - no way around it.
I'm pretty sure the bouncing EBP, building up then dropping, then continuing to build back up (as opposed to just noisy up and down) is diagnostic for exhaust leaks.
I believe this is Rich's opinion, too, though he may not yet be ready to stick a pin in that conclusion. I'm convinced, but he has a tad more experience with this than I do, LOL.
Did you look at my "Sluggish" thread? Concentrate on the EBP pattern and compare it to yours. Then see what happened when I found and corrected an exhaust leak. See the difference?
I need another strategy to find it. No soot, no psssst sounds.
I do have those small bubbles on the manifold, but no soot, I'm still not convinced its an issue - I would even argue that the gap might close once everything is heated up and expands....
On thing I still don't understand is how a small hard to detect pinhole in the exhaust side can cause huge problems when at the same time the wastegate is open with a hole 100x larger.
What about this for a test:
Cover each joint with fiberglass and metal tape or wire, then look for dirty fiberglass (soot on exhaust side, oil on intake sides)?
On thing I still don't understand is how a small hard to detect pinhole in the exhaust side can cause huge problems when at the same time the wastegate is open with a hole 100x larger.
If you wastegate is open when you need the boost, THAT is a problem
If I understand how these work, the wastegate will start to open at about 5 PSI and then be fully open well before we hit max boost. This helps the turbo spool up faster while preventing overboost at higher RPMs.
If I understand how these work, the wastegate will start to open at about 5 PSI and then be fully open well before we hit max boost. This helps the turbo spool up faster while preventing overboost at higher RPMs.
It is the opening start and rate that can be an issue, too. Hence the "plug the red line" advice to rule out premature opening, etc. The amount the wastegate opens should be very small and "metered" (okay, "known" LOL). Anything above that is stealing your power.
I had a boost sensor go bad and had NO performance or boost. Just happened to occur when rebuilding my turbo. Talk about a letdown
Replaced it and back to normal.
Keep in mind, your turbo should be able to build about DOUBLE the boost you're seeing. Just because you are seeing decent boost doesn't mean you don't have leaks that are causing problems.
For example, if your turbo has to spin faster, enough to make 23psi, but you are only getting 14psi, that's a pretty noticeable problem. Among other things, it messes up your power/efficiency curves
Nope, you mean a steady stream, or look at a specific time (OD->3 downshift for example)?
Yes this is what I recall and why I thought it was strange when I saw higher EGT with higher RPMs.
When you accelerate - do you see a small puff or does it look like an old steam powered locomotive climing through the hills.........
yep, It (EGT's) should be lower......still wondering if there is a chip or tune installed. can you monitor FIPW (fuel injector pulse width)?
Originally Posted by tjmike
It seems to pop up quickly and the plateau. I'll find an example later.
Is it a smooth steady boost climb or does she pop up to 14-15 in a second?
Originally Posted by tjmike
Here's a chart. First to second gear. Not full throttle but hard acceleration. I also have Intake and Manifold temps in the chart. I'm not positive what conditions we want to check them under. X Axis is minutes:seconds.tenths
MAT and IAT temps look good. MAT (@ 100 degrees if I read your graph correctly) is only 10 degrees warmer than IAT. So I wouldn't suspect the intake leak to be one of the intercooler boots, I would be tempted to pull the orange spider boots off and visually inspect for a tear.
Originally Posted by Tugly
Yes, I strongly suspect the intake. An exhaust leak would make the EBP/MAP much closer to each other.
X2
- plus data log FIPW, ICP, ICP duty cycle, rpm's, MAP, speed, EBP, & oil temp from 55-80 mph in OD (about 20-30 seconds worth of data). Then e-mail the data to one of us to plug it into ExPaCamper's PID 3D software.
Can you fill in your signature with your truck's info and any non-stock info? It does make it easier to keep track- especially when several similar threads are going at the same time
Also- I put my tuner on yesterday and am starting to push my Excursion a bit. Some things are starting to show up. We'll be analyzing it to death and try to document as much as possible as we go.
Might be helpful to you. Ask any Q's you like about it.
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