Good job Ultra, now get rid of those points... Yeah, I know its not stock, but no nevermind for most. I bought the CD ignition, from NAPA, and think its a Ptronix... but its been on for 4 years or more now, and I can't really say for sure.. It starts quick, runs great, no problems..

I did buy a 4 core all aluminum radiator, off evil bay, and hauled it 1000 miles south, only to find the outlet pipe on the wrong side. This, after I specified it for a 300 IL 6.. not a V8... no matter, they just sent what they had, and told me it would fit fine.. Well, I went to Cabo, found a welder who specialized in aluminum, and for 500 pesos, ($35.00US), I was back in biz... now, with my 6 blade fan, I can hardly get the temp needle off 0... at lest for 15 min or so.. Lucky for me, I found a 4 bbl Holley, with MANUAL choke, on evilbay, for $26.00... so I can control the warm up. I do not anticipate overheating, no matter the air temp, and soft deep sand in 4x4 low range..

 

I have a Duraspark II distributor and spark module that came from an '83 Ford truck with a 300. The '83 300 distributor will drop right in the hole on the 240 where the stock points distributor sits now. I just have to have the wiring harness to hook it up.

The truck has been dormant for 5 months now and I'm ready to drive it again, because it's not getting any cooler here and soon it will be hot and miserable. Of all the changes I've made, air conditioning wasn't one of them, this go 'round.

I'd like to get some drive time in before the really hot weather gets here, before picking back up later with some more upgrades/changes on the truck.

 

How the heck did that happen? Looks like a lightning strike.

 

I don't know. That's what I don't understand. I had a coil go out years ago on a '66 Mustang fastback I had but, it started out intermittently not putting out any spark and then it just quit altogether but, it didn't do this!

At any rate, I'm just glad I found what was causing the no start condition and it was an easy fix, once found.

 

Looks to me like the crack developed after it got warm. Coils are like transformers, and sometimes vibration or some other physical effects, cause internal shorting, minor at first, but it increases with the arcing, and the result is heat build-up... The heat causes expansion of the oil, and its got to go somewhere. With steel sides and a bakelite, or some such hard mold-able plastic above, the plastic gives...

To be less technical, I call it 'Tricklicity', as it can be tricky, to say the least. Using my powers of observation, I see that smoke makes most tricklickel things work. If you let the smoke out, most quit working.. My advice.. "Keep the smoke in"... end of non technical discussion..

Baja

 

Possible the ignition switch was left in the RUN position for a while? If the points happen to be closed the coil will get toasty. Engine components should be clear, like this:

 

18 out of the 26 years I've been in the professional working world has been spent in the electrical/mechanical profession. --I know about "keeping the smoke in."

Anyone that's ever smelt a burned electrical component knows it has a very distinct smell to it. Oddly enough, this coil never gave off any smell of being burnt or that it had any sort of problems. When I pulled the truck into the shop back in October to begin the changes on it, it was running fine --or, at least it seemed to be (??).

I didn't turn the key to the "on" position again until this past Friday, because I'm aware that an engine with a points ignition can burn the points if the key is on and the engine isn't turning. I've had the key on at different times during the truck's down time but, the key was always turned to the "accessory" position, not "run."

Hopefully, it was just a freak thing and won't come back. If it does, I'll know what to look at and try to back track from there.

....mean while, back at the farm, I discovered today the Traction-Lok differential in my N-case is a peg legger (worn clutch discs). That's ok. I'm not bummed about it. The truck has been a peg leg all its life. A little while longer 'til I can rebuild the differential won't make much difference.

I only gave $75 bucks for the entire Daytona 9-inch N-case 3rd member. The N-case alone, without a Traction-Lok differential or gears, would be worth more than that. Despite the defect, I still see it as being a good day --it is fixable

 

Yeah, if I had had that coil, the problem would have immediately been obvious.

 

Far be if from me, to ever doubt your abilities Ultra. I have had my truck for 45 years, and have learned more on this site, from pro's young and old, than I ever learned by just keeping my old 4x4 working. During my restoration/upgrade, this site has been so valuable, that I am forever grateful for the sharing & helping you, Rich, Jeff, ND, and many others have given to me. Thanks amigos, and my sombrero is off to you all. Hope I have brought a little humor to the forum now and then. Of all our senses, Humor is way important..

Saludos amigos

Baja

 

On my behalf, Your Welcome Amigo.
2X. Humor is very important. MOST of us feel that way. I am glad you and I are part of the majority Baja.

 

Yeah! The green machine moved out of the shop under its own power!

Now, I have a huge mess to clean up in the shop.

 

awesome! Can't wait to see how everything settles in.

 

Good job!

 

Congrats!

May your power brakes apply and release and transmission shift through its gears!!

 

Thanks, thanks and thanks again.

It's nice to see a little glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel, when you're finally getting close to wrapping up with major projects and finally about to try them out.

I'm waiting on some rear sway bar bushings to get here before I can put the rear bar back on (for the last time).

Not sure if the alignment shop will be open while I'm off this Friday (Good Friday) but if they are, I hope I can get the truck up there to get it aligned. --if so, ol' Steve-o's gonna do a little drivin' this weekend.