If you don't presently have the hole in the back of the cab for a cargo light, here's a handy-dandy photo showing the needed hole dimensions.

http://www.fordification.com/images/...ht-install.jpg

The cargo light installed on the Bumps was actually borrowed from the '64/'65 T-Bird parts bin. It was originally a left side backup light on the T-Birds. In the original T-Bird installation, the backup light was installed in this orientation, in the following link (the orientation shown on the truck there is wrong. The taper of the light bezel should face upward on the truck).

http://www.fordification.com/images/...nterchange.jpg

Notice the orientation of the cargo light for the Bumpsides in this Ford illustrated diagram (taper of bezel is facing upward).

http://www.fordification.com/tech/im...cargolight.jpg

The T-Bird cargo light did not directly fit up to the contour on the back of the Bumpside cabs. This is why Ford used the thick rubber seal, between the cargo light bezel and the back of the cab, to take up the gap between the two.

 

Yrs ago, I was going to install a cargo light, but after putting on a cab over camp. I found no use for one as the camper stayed on 99.99% of the time.

It was also stocked up with can & dry goods just needed to add beer & steaks gun, and family oh and the little 90Lb. dog it weighted more then my kids at the time.

My brothers Camper special had the cargo light good for when out fishing or just tailgating at a park BBQ..
I'm now to old to need or having a use for a cargo.

Orich

 

My F150 has the brake light/cargo light combo and although it isn't mega bright it is very helpful and I'd like to put one in on my bump.

 

If the cargo bulb is incandescent, changing to an LED will make the output brighter.

The white/red switchback LED I installed in my cargo light is a 60 LED 1157 bulb.

The LED 1157 bulbs in my tail/signal lights are 20 LEDs each.

 

I also installed a pair of 1157 LED bulbs in my tail/brake lights. that works great.

But then, I noticed my right front blinker light not working. So ordered another pair of 1157 LED's. Well upon installing them, I notice both in cab blinker lights lite up and not blinking. So thought one may be in wrong that was causing this.

Nope no problem install ok. So, I seem to remember one time hearing about a diode inline to stop the feed back. Any Ideas of size and placement. ?

I'm thinking at both the dash blinker lights themselves power leads ?

Orich

 

Orich, would replacing the actual flasher work to resolve your issue. I was looking into replacing my running, brake, turn signal lights with LED and came across a reference to needing to swap out the flasher to something like:
Tridon EL12 Flasher
I would like to run LED headlights as well (trucklite), but can't spend the $166 per headlight. But that sure would light the load on the charging system, especially combined with all of the running lights changed.

 

Because LEDs have a low amperage draw (compared to incandescent), the bimetallic reed switch in the regular 2-way and 4-way flashers heat up and cool back off much faster when an LED is installed in the circuit (known as 'hyper flashing'), which makes the blinkers flash very rapidly.

To the flasher, it senses this low current draw as a bulb being burned out. The rapid flashing (under normal circumstances) tells you you have an incandescent bulb or bulbs that are out --only, if the bulbs in the circuit are actually LEDs and not incandescent, there's no problem.

There are external ballast resistors designed to be spliced into the circuit to put a load on the flashers for the LEDs, to regulate the on/off cycle of the lights at a normal blink rate. It seems much simpler and more logical to me to simply unplug and change out the conventional signal and warning flashers for ones that are LED compatible, rather than splice/wire in some bulky ballast load resistors.

 

Thanks for the reply, I have not done any searching yet for a correction for this LED problem. As yet My rear brake/running lite seem to just ok just a little faster blinking.

For now kind of busy putting together a extra Dodge NV4500 short tail shaft setup ford a ford NV4500 5sp tranny that, I'll soon flip.

I don't have any storage place any more other then the bed of my truck.
I was going to keep it but those want pay for a storage unit then don't need to.
I'm slowing trying to empty out my truck bed so may I can get the truck painted this yr.

I look into Blinker unit for an LED that will fit into my flasher socket.

Thanks for the info both you guys

Orich

 

My rear sway bar bushings came in yesterday evening and I attempted to get the rear sway bar installed but, too many distractions kept pulling me away to take care of other things.

I wrapped some kraft paper around the rear bar to keep the finish from getting banged up while I got the bar lifted into place.





This evening, I got back on the project and got the rear sway bar assembly fully installed.



I backed the truck out of the shop and headed outside the city limits onto a narrow paved, two-lane curvy, bumpy road. The truck handled really flat around the curves and I took some of the curves much faster than I would have previously, before the front and rear bars were put on.

I had to go over two railroad tracks during my venture and I don't normally charge over RR tracks but, I figured this was a good chance to really compress the suspension, to see if the suspension would clash with the endlinks or the endlink bolts. I flew over one of the tracks at 40 MPH. it was a pretty good jolt but, there were no clangs or bangs as a result.

I got back to my shop, crawled around on a creeper under the rear, looking for any witness marks from the leaf springs on the endlinks or on the endlink bolts but, there were none.

This was only one brief outing but, it looks like this may have been a successful component installation that's going to work without interference.

Welp, time to put the green machine to bed.

 

How do you like the 300ci I6? Im really considering building one to put in my bump

 

I don't have a 300. My truck has an inline 240 six. If I was going to keep a six cylinder, I would install a 300.

I will either be switching to a fuel injected 5.0L H.O. engine from a '90 Mustang GT that I have or, I'll fuel inject an early '70s 351W that I have.

Which ever way I go with the engine, the stock '69 C-4 3-spd. non-overdriven automatic will be replaced with a '98 Ford 4R70W 4-spd. overdrive automatic.

 

Oops, my mistake. I was under the impression that there was a 300 under the hood!

 

After reflecting a bit,(no pun intended), on my desires for a cargo light, installed in my cab, I've had 2nd thoughts, after realizing that the winch gantry, behind the cab, would block most of the cargo light anyway. So, perhaps a pair of tractor flood lights (which I've had for years), and a toggle switch, will light up the cargo space just fine, and add light when backing up... It should not be a problem to weld two protective pieces of Schedule 20 pipe, to the gantry, and install the lights inside... Might look like Micky Mouse ears, so will just tack them on first...

Still thinking... Perhaps, oval led's, from a truck stop, might work out cleaner, with just a cut out, in the uprights of the gantry. I might be on to something there....

baja

 

I've been trying for two weeks to get my truck to the alignment shop but mine and my wife's schedules just haven't been jiving.

She finally got off from work at a normal hour yesterday and I got the truck up to the alignment shop and dropped it off. They said it would be Thursday before they could get to it. They called me this afternoon and said it was ready (a day early). Yeah!

Unfortunately, it started pouring down rain on the way to the alignment shop, to pick the truck up, and I had to drive it home in the rain but I did get to use the 'new' intermittent wipers.

Now, I can FINALLY get some quality drive time in on it!

I'm going to visit my dad and my uncle this weekend to show them what I've gotten done on the truck. My uncle has a two-tone blue long bed '71 Ranger XLT that's straight as a pin.

This is the (red & white) truck my dad had bought from my uncle back in the early '70s. It's the first vehicle I learned to drive. (originally a '68 Ranger. My uncle had changed out all the '68 Ranger interior and exterior trim for '70 model Ranger trim, before my dad had bought the truck --these pictures from 1988).




And of course, my old hoopty '69 back from the rainy trip from the alignment shop.

 

That truck looks awesome. Love that rocker panel molding. I want to put that on my 71. Excellent job on all your upgrades. I enjoy reading about them.