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While I had the door panels off to install the new side mirrors, I decided it didn't make much sense to go to all this trouble just to put the old, dilapidated door panels and arm rests back on.
I ordered a new set from NPD and they arrived today.
Pimpin' tape job on the old drivers side arm rest. (I didn't do that, by the way).
Other items on the interior hit list of things to do: reupholster the bench seat, install new black carpet, install a headliner, dye the white sun visors black and replace the badly cracked dash pad.
Do you have any plans for your old metal door panel? I'm missing the driver side door panel on mine.
My truck is a '67, but I found the doors & mirrors in a JY in Eureka Ca. and do not remember what year the truck was... my arm rests have 3 screws, and the door latch release, is a cast piece, flat, and pulls inward, and is inside the arm rest... any clues? Mine are ratty too, so was thinking of having some made from hardwood, like my steering wheel..
My truck is a '67, but I found the doors & mirrors in a JY in Eureka Ca. and do not remember what year the truck was... my arm rests have 3 screws, and the door latch release, is a cast piece, flat, and pulls inward, and is inside the arm rest... any clues? Mine are ratty too, so was thinking of having some made from hardwood, like my steering wheel..
Russ you must have Iron elbows I fine good are rest in the vans are pretty good shape up to like 76-77 bronco's. I also add the door pull straps.
Also water proof lower small boat speakers.
Orich
Russ you must have Iron elbows I fine good are rest in the vans are pretty good shape up to like 76-77 bronco's. I also add the door pull straps.
Also water proof lower small boat speakers.
Orich
Nice touch amigo... and perhaps I will use the arm rest's more, when my A/C is in. Right now, I drive with the window's down, wind wings fully open, to catch all the breeze I can. Its hot here, like 99 every day, and that in the shade.. Most unusual for this time of year... its like August already..
I hope that your alarm switch, also is a kill switch for the ignition. Mine, is a hidden toggle switch, which turns off the electric fuel pump, so a bandito may get half a block, before he uses all the fuel in the carb bowl... then the truck dies, and leaves him stranded.
I may order some of the padded arm rests, but for this week, we shall see how the Parota hard wood ones turn out..
Thanks Jeff for the supplier info.. that will work when I get North to pick them up.
Rich, I do like the diamond plate on the I/S of your doors... nice addition.. I am going to copy.. and maybe even fab some for my door sills/carpet edge..
Ultra, it looks like your arm rest is the top of the door, as mine is. When I get my A/C working, I am going to un-learn that habit, and pull my left wing in a bit.
Oh, I put some sound mat inside my driver's door, and it sure attenuated the tinny door sound. It added about 40 lbs to the door's weight, but its a truck, so who cares? Now, it closes with a hushed sound, and a solid thump, not like a tin bell. I will do a photo shoot on the passenger side door later. Maybe today..
Ultra, it looks like your arm rest is the top of the door, as mine is.
Baja
It was for the previous owner but not me. When I was a kid and my dad had his Bumpside Ranger, it was a no-no to rest your arm on the top of the doors and it was for that very reason --salt and oils from your arm would wear away the paint and then cause the metal to rust.
That 'programming' was just instilled in me at an early age. As an adult with my own truck, I don't even think about putting my arm on top of the door. --I just have to fix the damage caused by someone else that did.
I'm wondering, do they make thin, colored Stainless steel? If not, maybe we should invent it, and make door sill overlays. Lucky for me, my truck is painted with Imron, which is not illegal in most states, due to it being known to "Chicken Little" aka California Government, to cause cancer in rats. My guess is that it probably would have cost Dupont plenty to get an exemption, so they just took it overseas.
Anyway, sweat & salt will do that, along with salt air, humidity, and other environmental conditions. Ain't life a bit-h...?
No salty air here since I'm over 400 miles from the Gulf but, it is humid here. However, if humidity was the culprit, ALL of the door would be surface rusted. It's only localized in the area where an arm was resting on the painted portion of the doors and wore the paint off --something that wasn't initiated by an act of nature and was totally preventable.
--it'll eventually get fixed. Meanwhile, it just doesn't look good.
Good deductive detective work amigo. I am thinking that you are right about the wear on the window sill. Here in Baja, close to the Sea of Cortez, the local's say that even plastic rusts.
Yesterday, I worked on the passenger's side door, to put in the sound mat, and took a few photos.. Had lots of problems with removing the rearward, bolt/screw, from the arm rest. Seems that my 3/8", quarter drive socket, is too thick walled to fit onto the bolt's head... Have to put my sockets on a diet... but did manage to struggle long enough, to remove it... and took some photos in the process...
On a very cold day in January, 2012, I pulled this electronically shifted Ford 4R70W 4-spd. automatic overdrive transmission from a 1998 3.8L V6 Mustang.
For over 3 years, it's been sitting quietly, off to the side in my shop, patiently waiting for some attention. I decided yesterday that today was the day to blow the dust and cob webs off of it and at least get it ready to begin the teardown process on it.
I made this holding fixture to hold the transmission on an engine stand, for the teardown/rebuild process.
I had to get the engine hoist out since trying to pick the transmission up and stab it onto the engine stand, by myself, would have been rather difficult.
This is the stock torque converter. I don't plan to re-use it since I have a brand new 2500 stall converter sitting in a box.
I made some torque converter installation/removal handles out of some long 3/8"-24 bolts, a couple of regular 3/8"-24 nuts and two 3/8"-24 coupling nuts. Even though I don't plan to use this torque converter, I didn't want to risk the stock converter getting dammage by it possibly slipping out of my hands and hitting the floor.
Transmission I.D. tag located on right side, just behind the bell housing.
There are two primary versions of this transmission. One is designed to fit 'Windsor' style blocks: this includes 240/300, mid-'65-'68 289, all 302/5.0L, 351W/5.8L , 351C, 3.8L V6 and 4.2L V6 engines. The other 4R70W is designed for 4.6L/5.4L Modular Ford engine blocks. --the bell housings are integral and do not unbolt.
In the following photo, I have two arrows pointing to the bolt holes for the starter. If there are (2) starter bolt holes, the transmission is compatible with a 'Windsor' style block pattern.
If there are (3) starter bolt holes, the 4R is for a 4.6L/5.4L engine.
R. H. Door Armrest
L. H. Door Armrest
R. H. Door Armrest
