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Springs and 2 degree shims are in. I'll have to cut the u-bolts later. The Bilsteins are in and everything is torqued. The axle is on jack stands with the full weight on the springs.
I started cleaning the rust under the rear of the EX and quit. The metal is to thin in a lot of places to waste the time and money putting Rust Encapsulator on it. I thought it was in better shape. That really sucks ☹️.
I also found out 2 of the rotors were warped when they got turned. I don't have a clue which 2, so I'm ordering 4 new rotors. I didn't realize there are O2 sensors on both sides, so I need one for the right side yet.
Man that stinks!! The outers should be too terrible to get done given your skill, and cutting the inners and replacing them wouldn't be bad either. I hate to see this.
Man that stinks!! The outers should be too terrible to get done given your skill, and cutting the inners and replacing them wouldn't be bad either. I hate to see this.
I could replace the rockers, but to many of the body supports are rusted through to be worth it. I would have to build them from scratch. I'll be farther ahead to make this look decent on the outside and solid, then look for a rust free EX to fully restore. This one can be the snow plowing, winter beater, off roading vehicle. I'd still like to get 4:56 gears, a tru Trac and bigger tires. One of my daughters wants to go off roading when I get the EX done if they ever open the trails.
Turns out it's 2 1/2". Inside the rocker panel. I had to buy 2 1/2" square tubing and weld it together. I used weld through primer on the surfaces that went together. This will slide into the original rocker panel at the front. Hopefully they will act like a rock slider.
These are supports for the body under the rear of the EX. I doubt they can be bought. This is why I quit with the Rust Encapsulator. It's just to far gone. My money and time will be better spent on a different Ex with no rust. That makes this one a great learning experience and test bed. It'll look good and be solid when I'm done.
The rocker angles toward the outside at the rear. I cut the inside flush with the top so my tubing can go straight back to the inner wheel well. My new rocker extends just past the door bottoms.
This is where I cut the old inner rocker completely off. The tubing goes straight to the inner wheel well. It's butts up to the wheel well. I'll have to trim it to fill under the fender. The wheel side.
This patch is on the front. It's the last piece to finish the driver's side. This one was to thin to weld or actually support the body. Here's what I made.
The front where it joins the original rocker. I'll grind the welds flush and apply short hair fiberglass filler to the bottom to make it smooth. I think I'll spray it with bed liner. It extends a strong 3/4 inch below the doors.
What do you think of how I fixed the rocker? Obviously I wouldn't do this if it wasn't so rusty. But it's really strong and should last a long time.
I think it looks good and is good to see someone else having fun with rust. Those southern guys have it made. Im in the same boat. Got a bunch of body parts and panels to undertake a similar situation as you.
I think it looks good and is good to see someone else having fun with rust. Those southern guys have it made. Im in the same boat. Got a bunch of body parts and panels to undertake a similar situation as you.
Let me know if you need help. I have lots of pictures I haven't posted so I can put it all back together. LOL
I've been using 6 inch cut off wheels on my 4 1/2" grinder. They work great but are really close to my fingers. I made it narrower so I can get in places without the guard getting in the way. Turned out pretty good 😊
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
