If you are looking at wrecking yards, this is what the Velvac 2020 at one time used to look like about a decade ago...



As you have shown in your link, and have seen in my previous link, the 2020XG has changed in arm style and location since the earlier 2020 design.

And this is important, because the newer design positions the mirror head LOWER than the older design, since the mirror head was sitting ON TOP of the lateral arm on the older design, but the lateral arm supports the mirror closer to the MIDDLE in the NEWER design, which effectively lowers the mirror by a couple of critical inches, affording a rear view where it counts (where the little rice rockets rumble, and where curbs and ditches are) and a better front view to see who is standing at the curb waiting to enter the cross walk.

Today's Velvac 2020XG




And below are images of the mirrors in your link, so we have them here for comparison...



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So the first new Lares box had as much play as the old box🤔 So this happened because I don't want to wait 4 hours between coats for the rust Encapsulator. Good thing you can't see it. LOL

 

I'm running into a few snags as we try to finish this project. The first is the new steering box being sloppy. I was trying to avoid that by getting a new box instead of a reman. Anyhow, it's painted and ready to go on.

We had a heating problem in the front and I finally found it. I believe half of the heater core is plugged. The right side gets hot and hot air blows through it. As I move my hand left, the core gets cooler and on the left side cold air is coming out of it. I should have a new one Thursday.

The LF is 1 1/2" taller than the RF. The RF spring even looks flatter than the LF. The stickers both claim they are 22210 springs. We bought them last December so I don't know if they will ship us a new spring or not. And then which one is wrong, the flatter one on the RF?

We were going to run the tires that were on it, but one is really cracked around the sidewall. We've got a wedding to go to in a couple weeks. Other people are riding with us, so I ordered some 315/75/16 Falken ATW3s today. Our old beater pickup runs the 265s so I can use the other 3 on there. I really wanted to wait until I could put 4.56 gears in it. Does the Forscan thing let me adjust the speedometer? How does the Forscan thing work?

I got over spray from the Encapsulator on the fender flares. So they need to be painted now. Stupid mistake, but forward is the only direction I want to go. I'll pay the stupid tax and move on with life.

Aliso having problems with cruise control and turn signals. The cruise doesn't come on at all and the turn signals work when they feel like it. The abs light is on because of the rear speed sensor, maybe the cruise will work after I change it.

Back to buffing......

 

Spent the day buffing. I'll get some better pictures later once I get it outside again. Went over it 5 times including the wax.


The new door seals and hinges showed up today. I've got epoxy primer on the hinges already.. Tomorrow I plan to install the steering box and heater core. The alignment was done Monday.

 

Super job!! She's coming out real nice!!

The 22210 spring should yield 27" center of hub to fender. So, whichever one isn't that, might be something different. I'd make sure that they are both on the correct direction and a shackle isn't bound up or something. Seems silly, but it happens.

 

Thanks, I'll measure and see which one is off. I'm guessing the RF, it looks flat and saggy compared to the LF. Probably a good idea to loosen the eye bolts and hangers. I've made stupid mistakes before, so I'll check if the springs are in the same way. I appreciate the help.
Edit: RF is 27 1/4 , LF is 28 3/4 from center of hub to fender.

 

I fought the heater core and I won!

The actual changing of the heater core is easy, unplugging the quick connect fittings not so much. I cut the ends off and pulled them out where I could reach them. They come off really easy once you can grab them with both hands. You'll want new o-rings to put them back together.

The foam they send with the heater core is half as thick as what's on the original. I bought some at the hardware store. It fits nice and tight. I think air would blow around the core with the foam they sent.

 

Who is "they"?

Did you buy a Ford blue box heater core, a Motorcraft red box heater core, or an aftermarket heater core?

Any how about moving the photography back into the shop... I'm still lusting after that old lathe in the corner.

 

Bought it from the local Ford dealership. It was in a brown box. They would be Ford or Motorcraft. The picture was in the shop, just zoomed in. Yes, once I build or buy a shop, I'll be trying to acquire that lathe, an old drill press, and a hydraulic press from them. 😊 Wish me luck!

 

I am getting an MT2500 Snap On scanner. Any of you know if it will allow me to adjust for the 315/75/16 tires going on next week?

 

Sorry for forgetting... what engine and what rear axe ratio do you have?

 

Not really that hard. I did a video about changing the heater cores. And as Y2K mentioned, get the OE heater core for anyone doing this.

 

6.8L 3.73 gears, currently 265 tires but getting 315s next week.

 

This is the heater core I used.

Changing the core was easy. Getting the quick connects off was the hard part. Until I cut the tubes off and pulled them into the engine compartment where I could reach them.@TooManyToys. I wish I had seen your video. The coat hanger may have worked. Mine is different than yours though, the tubes aren't as accessible. The one closer to the fender has a 90 deg bend in the quick connect fitting. On the bright side, that electric box wasn't in the way of the heater core cover.

 

Got my MT2500 today 😊