Helping, but not solving, the pickup problem - which is something I've dealt with since the cabinet was new about 15 years ago.

So, would you use a gasket and an anaerobic like Super 300 Form-A-Gasket - like Chris suggested? It would seal around the screws as well. (I'm still struggling with the "why" for not using RTV since that's what Loctite recommends. Just seeking to understand.)

As for lock nuts, or any nuts, you would add them even though the adapter is tapped 1/4-20? And use a hardened flat washer? Why hardened? And why not just use the thread-locker? (Again, seeking to understand.)

 

I can't say what will help your blaster 'slugging' problem.
Would have thought a vibrator would keep media from bridging the siphon tube.

Hardened because the pan is obviously annealed for stamping and screw heads tend to dig in while turning.
Plus it spreads the load without the possibility of distorting, itself.

I might have used a class 1 tap on the flange before I resorted to a threadlocker.
I 'think' having two different products is going to have to mean there is a 'seam' somewhere where the threadlocker squeezes out or gets stripped off the fastener as it is threaded in.

Eh, maybe I'm just too **** or trying to envision problems cropping up where there should be none...
/bseg

 

Dang, I forgot to address your question re: locknuts.
(I'm NOT a fan of mobile where you lose the thread in the reply window!)

Just a general statement about anerobics.
Some people take the belt-and-suspenders approach a little too far.

 

Thanks, I'll consider those responses and get back after church. But, why would you go with a loose thread instead of a tight one? To get more locker in? I actually went the other way by not drilling out the adapter and getting a bit tighter threads. Wrong approach?

 

Maybe I have my tap classes backward?
I thought #3 was loose for galvanized.

A thread that tight is not going to come loose, and a reamed hole in the pan isn't going to let the joint fret.

 

Got the adapter in the pan today. Used The Right Stuff and Red Thread Locker, and I plan to explain why, later. (Get your pillows, boys.)

Here's a shot of the outside right after I got it bolted in. The gasket maker was still a little soft, so I waited a bit before cutting the excess off. Anyway, I like the way TRS swelled to seal everything, as shown with the excess that came out all the way around, both inside and out. So, I'm sure it is sealed.




And, here's the inside just after bolting it in.




Now, here's the outside after cleaning it up and media-blasting it. (It dawned on me that paint doesn't stick to RTV, so I had to get all the traces off.)




And, here's the inside:

 

That looks really good Gary

 

Thanks, Alen.

Ok, let me try to 'splain why I went the way I did with gasket maker. First, I've read quite a bit about gaskets, sealers, and gasket makers - enough to get very confused. Then I ran across this Gasket Maker Selector Chart from Loctite. And I realized that one distinction between applications was whether the parts, or mating surfaces, are machined. That seemed be telling me that an application where the surfaces are flat takes one kind of treatment and applications where the surfaces aren't flat takes another. In other words, if there is going to be very little space between the surfaces, and if that space will be uniform, then the job is easy. But, if there are tight spots and wide spots then you need a something that will conform.

An oil pan/adapter junction might be thought to be of the machined variety because, at least in my case, the adapter is machined. However, the pan has only a slight recess that provides very little rigidity, and if a paper gasket is used I would expect it to have a hard time filling the wide spots. So, I opted for The Right Stuff as it expands slightly and fills all the recesses. And, you can see from the pics that it did the job as it pushed out when I tightened the screws down. I'm confident that the whole space between the adapter and the pan is full of TRS, and that the screws are well and truly embedded in it since I circled them with it.

So, I believe the adapter/pan interface is sealed, and if the thread-locker works it should stay that way.

Jim - Fastenal says these are the classes of threaded joints:

• Classes 1A and 1B are considered an extremely loose tolerance thread fit. This class is
  suited for quick and easy assembly and disassembly. Outside of low-carbon threaded rod or
  machine screws, this thread fit is rarely specified.
• Classes 2A and 2B offer optimum thread fit that balances fastener performance,
  manufacturing, economy, and convenience. Nearly 90% of all commercial and industrial
  fasteners use this class of thread fit.
• Classes 3A and 3B are suited for close tolerance fasteners. These fasteners are intended for
  service where safety is a critical design consideration. This class of fit has restrictive
  tolerances and no allowance. Socket products generally have a 3A thread fit.

Note the "Socket products generally have a 3A thread fit." Does that mean SHCS's are generally a 3? I wasn't aware of that - assuming that's what it means.

 

You snuck that little task in with only 5 pages of discussion. This thread is off and running!

 

Are you going with an electric fan set up Gary or running the fan clutch like it had?

 

I obviously failed reading retention in thread school and will now go burn my copy of 'Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook'


The job looks good Gary!
Progress is always good.

 

Do you read lips?

Dunno. The plan had been to use the mechanical fan it came with. But, I have recently begun to rethink that. Part of the impetus has been a book I picked up entitled Building Hot Rods: 30 Years of Advice from Fatman Fabrication's Brent VanDervort. The reason I bought the book was because it has some advice on swapping bodies from one frame to another - don't - and that's one of the considerations for the '50. But, he also talks about fans, and has some good points in favor of electric. So, I see another decision looming, which will take advice.

I had to go look it up myself. The fact that you knew there are classes of threads is enough to think through which one to have in this situation. So, save the book for reference. (I would have gone to that book, or any number of others I have, but they were in the shop and I in the house.)

By the way, in the end I didn't use any washers at all. The button-head screws have the same size heads as the washers I have. And, there was TRS under the heads. So, I reasoned that there wouldn't be any galling. And, it would seal better without the washer.

 

I took several pics of the pan after painting today. But, these are the only ones that came close to showing the right color on my monitor, and even then they aren't quite right. It was painted according to DupliColor's instructions: 2 light coats and then one heavy coat of the primer, and then the same on the color - with 10 minutes between coats.

 

Well Gary, I think it turned out nice. Is the blue a little darker in person?

 

Excellent work Gary!
I can't wait to see the whole engine.