When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm not sure how dark it'll be in real life as we are dealing with what the camera saw, and then a computer displayed, of a cap that may or may not represent the color. I hope to test colors on Wednesday.
That's ok, I'm just going with it. That's the color that was on it, so that's the color it'll get. I'll shoot something, maybe even the block, and then compare to a part I powder coat.
I thought about going back with everything that dark just so it would be somewhat period correct. However, powder wasnt available in that color match anywhere that I looked. Since we have been PC'ing things at your shop I am sold on how durable the coating is. So I decided to get whatever I could get matched in one of the Ford colors which was that powder we have been using on my stuff. I was a little disappointed it couldnt be the factory color, but I am pleased the way everything is turning out.
I thought about how durable powder is, but I do want it to be period correct and match, so am going paint. But, as said, I can put clear powder over the paint on the valve covers to get the durability. That just leaves the pan and block for things that are painted and I think they'll be fine with paint.
And, that reminds me that I have to prep the pan. The dip stick plate was leaking so I need to pull it, seal it, etc.
Here's today's test. I took several pics under different lighting and white-balance settings on the camera. But, the basic learning is that DupliColor's Dark Ford Blue (DE 1606) is darker than Eastwood's Dark Ford Blue powder (10106), which is itself darker than Bruno2's Powder By The Pound's Dark Ford Blue (RAL 5017). So, it looks like I'll use paint rather than powder on the pan, block, and valve covers. That way I know it'll match.
The plan for the valve covers is to:
Media-blast the valve covers to give them "tooth" to which the paint can adhere
Wash them thoroughly with brake cleaner
Bake them for an hour at 400 to drive out any impurities in the pores (a big problem with aluminum)
Wash them again with brake cleaner
Heat them again to drive out any last impurities
Paint them and let the paint cure - maybe heat them in the oven?
Sand them to get the paint off the top surface and expose the lettering and pin striping
Wash them with water and detergent to get what impurities out of the pores I can
Heat them again to get any last impurities out. The DupliColor is said to be good to 500 degrees so maybe I can do 400 again
Powder coat them with a satin clear
Sounds like a lot of work, but my experience with aluminum says it is necessary. Thoughts? Upgrades?
The finishes on the powder coated washers are so much more nice looking then the paint. I know you will prep and the paint will look better than the example, but that powder is NICE!!
I am kicking around PC'ing another carb for Jr. The black one on the Bronco looks really good. I dont know if I would like the blue on it though, but maybe I would.
The darker color with that aluminum for the heads and intake with black accessories is really going to pop on Dad's truck. I think you are going to be happy with it Gary.
Please read on, as there's a question buried down below.....
Dad's oil pan leaked at the adapter where the dip stick tube [officially #6754, aka "Tube Assy. (Oil Level Indicator)] screws in. But, I can't find that piece in the catalog for any of the engines. In fact, down at the bottom of this post is the drawing in the master parts catalog for the 351M/400. Note where the dip stick is - the passenger's side front and into the block, not the pan. That's the drawing for the older M/400's, and apparently wasn't updated when they changed to installing the engines in the pickups, which have a rear-sump pan - meaning a dip stick in the front won't work.
So, since I don't know what I'm talking about (), I shall call the thing into which the dip stick tube attaches an "adapter". (My guess is that Ford bought the pan, inc the adapter, as a complete unit so there was no replacement part.) And, since the seal between the pan and the adapter had gone bad, today I drilled the rivets out which held it in. Sure enough, one of them was quite loose, and was probably the reason for the leak.
Then I pondered what to do about it and finally come to this approach. The adapter is drilled .193", which is a good size for a 1/4-20 tap. (Actually, the standard tap drill size is a #7, which is .201", but .193" works fine.) So, I tapped the adapter and reamed the holes in the pan out to .250" and will go back with 1/4-20 screws to hold it. But, which screw and how best to seal and secure it is the question.
I've included two shots showing two different fasteners, with split lock washers behind their heads. I lean to the square-drive ones as that says "leave me alone, I'm different" and maybe my offspring won't go twisting on them. But, square-drive fasteners seem to be a bit foreign on a vehicle, so I included a shot of hex-headed screws as well.
And, there's the question of leakage. Whatever screw I use will be liberally coated with Loctite, so they shouldn't back out or leak around the threads. But, that being the case, I could see just using a flat washer and some Permatex Super 300 Form-A-Gasket on the screw and washer. (I'll use the Form-A-Gasket on the gasket itself that goes between the adapter and the pan - although I'll have to make the gasket as, apparently they aren't available.)
Anyway, what are your thoughts on fasteners, sealing, and securing?
), I shall call the thing into which the dip stick tube attaches an "adapter". (My guess is that Ford bought the pan, inc the adapter, as a complete unit so there was no replacement part.) And, since the seal between the pan and the adapter had gone bad, today I drilled the rivets out which held it in. Sure enough, one of them was quite loose, and was probably the reason for the leak.
