Chris - thanks. But I can't say about the color as I don't know how it comes across on your monitor/device. It was right on the shop monitor but it shows too light on this iPad.

Jim - Thanks. Lots of things going on that are keeping me from the engine, but I'll get there.

On a side note, Tim Meyer called a couple of days ago to compare notes on an engine he just built and dyno'd vs mine. Turns out he uses DupliColor Ford Dark Blue on everything he builds.

 

I don't want to side-track this thread (as if I haven't before), but go take a look at my post re blast cabinets. Wow! What a huge price difference for what I'm pretty sure is the same cabinet.

 

I was telling Gary earlier about the new product I am seeing. RectorSeal T Plus 2 dominated the pipe fitting and plumbing trades for a lot of years. However, this Blue Monster product showed up a few years ago and seems to have taken over the market. I dont even see the T Plus 2 on the shelves anymore. I am planning on going with the Monster on my thread sealing applications for Jr.




http://cleanfit.com/downloads/produc...d-seal-lit.pdf

I bought a tube of ARP thread sealant for an unreasonable amount of money when I built the Bronco. When I used it the product looked identical to the T Plus 2. I called hem and of course they put up the smoke and mirrors about it not being RectorSeal. In my mind I couldnt help , but think that RectorSeal is in the sealing business and not the automotive fastener business. ARP claiming they had a better thread sealing product than the nations largest manufacturer is silly. I do believe in their fasteners dont get me wrong. The Bronco is full of them , Head, intake, rod , main and even carb bolts.

 

Here is the thread locking products I use Gary. The Dynatex is what is used in all of your transmission, rear end and transfer case builds. It seems to doing the job. That is like an $80 bottle of that stuff.

Here are both anaerobic products I have used.

And of course Chris' favorite a variety of silicone.

Also, there is a tube of ARP's thread lube for torquing their fasteners. It is like a graphite looking grease.

 

You have me beat. I have several, but not all, of those.

 

I like the Dynatex anaerobic better than the Permatex. That stuff is high dollar, but seems to work great on machine fit stuff. I will probably use it on the intake where it meets the heads as well as possibly the oil pump pick up. The silicone will be used on the front and rear of the intake where it sits on the block.

That Loctite 545 is interesting stuff. It was recommended to me by a boiler maker. Read up on that.
http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/545-EN.PDF

 

How many tubes of blue RTV do you need man? do you brush your teeth with that stuff or something?

 

I thought Chris was the one who used too much blue RTV on everything???

545 seems like a great product for threaded hydraulic liines.
I don't think I have any on my truck.

 

I bought that 545 stuff for my log splitter build.

My buddy James that worked at Inland for several years gave me the blue stuff. Every rebuild kit for PTO's, T cases, trannies and rear ends comes with a tube of that Ultra blue. They use a pneumatic caulk gun with another type of silicone to seal most stuff. So those tubes get thrown in a big box. I think that is about half of what I actually have.

It didnt get in the pic, but some of those tubes of blue come in a plastic bag with a little tube of blue loctite too. So I have a few of those as well. I used to bring that stuff out to the GTG's and give it away to anyone who wants some.

 

Only on head gaskets......

 

With all the Ultra colors (Blue, Black, Gray, Copper, etc) you'd think they'd have Ford Dark Blue. I almost decided to use the Old Ford Blue paint as it is a good match for the Blue RTV's color (yeah, Bruno's been here), and would hide where I use it so y'all wouldn't laugh. I sure don't want to be talked about like you do Chris.

 

Update time. Since I'm not getting the engine done (church, grandkids, travel, boat, etc), I've contacted Tim and am going to be sending the parts to him for assembly. Then, when it is time to dyno it, my wife and I'll go up and watch it.

However, there are some things I want to do before sending the pieces up to Tim, and that includes painting/powder coating the various parts. I have the pulleys and mounts done, but have the valve covers, intake manifold, and some other bits and pieces to do. Plus, Tim has announced that he's going to be making billet distributors and I want to get one of the housings and PC it clear before it is assembled into a dizzy and put on the engine.

You may remember that I'm going with the following color scheme:

• Old Ford Blue: Block, pan, valve cover sides and lettering
• Aluminum: Heads, intake manifold, air cleaner top, A/C compressor, water pump, & thermostat housing, alternator, distributor, and power steering pump bracket
• Black: Brackets, air cleaner base & snorkels, and pulleys

Given that, I started on the valve covers today. They spent probably 2 hours in the blast cabinet while I got all of the paint like this off:




I have them down to bare aluminum and they've been washed with brake cleaner, baked in the oven for 90 minutes at 400 degrees, washed again with brake cleaner, and then baked again at 400 for an hour. That process drives out all the impurities that hide in the pores of the aluminum, so they are ready for paint.

Tomorrow I'll tape them off and paint them with Dupli-Color's Engine Enamel Primer and then DE 1606 Ford Dark Blue, which are the cans on the left in this pic:



After that cures I'll sand the top down to have the natural aluminum look shown in the first pic and then powder coat them with a clear. I hope to get pics tomorrow of the covers painted blue, but I won't be able to sand them until they cure, so the next step will be a few days away.

 

Progress can be slow, but sweet!

 

Iirc you used a DA to sand them in the beginning.
I think it might look much nicer if you were to use a belt sander or even just finish with a sanding block so all the minute scratches run the length of the valve cover.

(this reminds me that I STILL can't figure out who has my air board)

 

David - Yes, progress can be slooooow. But, I'll get there.

Jim - Do you also clock the screws on your wall switches? Thanks for reminding me as I'd forgotten. I'll try a sanding block, first.