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The drawings are just generic and representative and aren't intended to show each and every possible detail and configuration. The 400s were also installed in sedans which had the front-mounted oil dipstick.
You might scroll through the Text section in that general oil pan area and see if you come across something looking interesting.
No, scratch that... I'm betting it's considered part of the oil pan....
Already scrolled through and didn't find anything that could be construed to be an adapter. And that is why I came to the same conclusion as you - they bought the whole pan/adapter assembly already put together.
Torx are pretty common on vehicles.
I think I'd use an oil resistant anerobic for the threads AND as a gasket.
Look at Henkel's application guide for your best option.
I Googled Henkels and got here: Product search - Henkel North America But, that just shows all the Loctite gasketing products. You seemed to be saying you can find the product by the application, and I've not found the application guide.
The Right Stuff: Make leak-proof gaskets and return equipment to service immediately! Permatex’ premier instant gasket maker was designed as a replacement for conventional gaskets. This elastomeric “formed-in-place"material is more reliable and longer lasting than pre-cut gaskets. It is blowout resistant and protects against leaks and seepage caused by vibration and thermal expansion. Formulated to meet or exceed performance standards for long-term sealability, durability and handling, this material is used on OEM production lines and specified in their service parts programs. Temperature range -75°F to 450°F (-59°C to 232°C) continuous, 500°F (260°C) intermittent; resists ATF, coolant, oil and other shop fluids. Sensor-safe. Fleet-tested. - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p....dFNOu4BW.dpuf
Ultra Black: OEM specified. For dealership warranty requirements, Ultra Black® ensures extended drivetrain warranty compliance. Fast-curing formula. Sensor-safe, low odor, noncorrosive. Meets performance specs of OE silicone gaskets. Retains high flexibility, oil resistant properties through use of a patented adhesion system. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration. - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p....gfcRAXT6.dpuf
Ultra Grey Rigid: OEM specified. Permatex® Ultra silicones were developed to meet today’s technology changes. Sensor-safe, low odor, noncorrosive. Outstanding oil resistance and joint movement tolerance. Eight times more flexible than cork/composite gaskets; three times more oil resistant than conventional silicones. Temperature range -65?F to 500?F (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p....BB3wQ9Bv.dpuf.
Thread Sealant:
243 - remove with hand tools
265 - remove with high torque
What am I missing? A thread sealer that also works as a gasket maker?
Here's what I find for those two, Matthew, with the underlining by me:
518: Top Pick Loctite® 518™ Gasket Eliminator® Flange Sealant forms a flexible, solvent-resistant seal that will not tear or decay. Seals to 300°F and fills gaps to 0.05" with primer. Recommended for use on rigid iron, steel and aluminum flanges. Easy disassembly and cleaning. Applications include gearbox, engine casings.
515: Top Pick Loctite® Gasket Maker 515™ Flange Sealant is a flexible, gasketing material for use on rigid machined flanges with less than 0.015" gap. Flexes with flanges that move in service. OEM approved – use where OEs specify 515 or “anaerobic” gasket (cures in absence of air). Eliminates preformed, pre-cut, paper, rubber and cork gaskets.
I don't see "thread locker/sealant" in there. And the "rigid" bit concerns me as the adapter is cast and machined, so is rigid. But the pan is going to flex and certainly isn't machined.
Your adapter is cast? mine is stamped steel. I've used 518 on several different applications. It worked for me as both a thread sealant and a gasket eliminator. No leaks! I've had better success with it than silicone products.
Yup, it is cast. And, that part # doesn't show in our catalog. Note that the catalog skips that #.
But, if yours is stamped that would alter the way to attach it. You can't tap it like I did, but you could put nuts on the back - and use a GOOD thread locker.
Yep, mine is just a thin piece of stamped steel that's riveted to the pan. If I ever have the engine out I had thought about drilling out the rivets and replacing them with bolts, thread locker, lock washers and locking nuts. Along with good thread and flange sealant. I think that would do it.
That's basically what I'm doing. I just have a more rigid part to work with.
Another approach for you is to braze it on. I didn't think I could get the casting hot enough to take w/o warping the pan, but I think you could with a sheet metal adapter.
It's a D5 number and you're looking in an E0 catalog, it doesn't surprise me at all it's not in there... maybe @NumberDummy has the time and inclination to look in an earlier catalog....
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