When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The fluid was very red and did not smell burnt. It also looks like it never leaked. The pump turns smooth. I think some good cleaning and a little powder coat and that thing will last a long time.
Can the pump be powdercoated? Would the heat hurt the seals?
A lot of the Lincolns with both the 460 and the one year only pig 400 used the Frigidaire A6 compressors. Gas mileage wasn't a priority, but the smoothness of the A6 over the York and Tecumseh twins was. When your competition (Cadillac) had a much smoother idle it became a sticking point. The A6 also handled the EPR (Evaporator Pressure Regulator) valve much better than the York or Tecumseh. Ford went to their own similar design with the FS6 and later FS10 compressors.
After what you said Bill and what I just read below, Gary may have me going back to the yard for the other parts since they are already on a 400. That compressor is pretty bad a--.
A lot of the Lincolns with both the 460 and the one year only pig 400 used the Frigidaire A6 compressors. Gas mileage wasn't a priority, but the smoothness of the A6 over the York and Tecumseh twins was. When your competition (Cadillac) had a much smoother idle it became a sticking point. The A6 also handled the EPR (Evaporator Pressure Regulator) valve much better than the York or Tecumseh. Ford went to their own similar design with the FS6 and later FS10 compressors.
I had a 77 Mercury Monarch (Granada) that had both the saginaw pump and frigidaire comp on it. Time I got the car, it had an early 351W (large spark plugs) stuffed into it, but it had a 302 factory. The PS/AC bracket was slotted to fit either engine.......
That same car had a 8.7" rear axle under it. Looked like an 8.8, rear cover and all, including those silly axle bearings that ride directly on the axleshaft.
Funny thing though, even with the upscale nameplate, it was by no means a "Luxury" car.......
I hung onto that car for a few years after I bought the 80 F150, just in case the 300 failed. The car rotted away long before that 300 gave out.......
Kyle, there is one minor error in that Hemmings article. Due to the internal oil pump, the A6 is not reversible, Corvairs had a dedicated reverse rotation A6. They are also found on a lot of busses as a driveshaft driven unit.
I have learned all kinds of interesting to me things today. Besides the a/c, I had no clue that such a thing as fan blade fluid existed. Saw a hydraulic driven radiator fan on a lexus and shaft driven accessories on a Toyota previa. The radiator and all the pulleys were up front and a shaft ran from them to the engine much further back.
We had one of those Previas. The little four-banger sat under the passenger and was inclined 70 degrees. You tilted the passengers seat and pulled a cover to service the engine.
As for the A/C compressor, thanks for the offer. But I'm going with a unit from Classic Auto Air that uses an FS10. They have a bracket that mounts it atop the Ford bracket. Anyway, thanks for the offer.
Fluid clutch fans, the "Grosser Mercedes", the 600 had a fluid clutch as did the later 450SEL 6.9. I think you will also find a lot of your large truck engines use them.
The 600's complex 150-bar (2,176 psi) hydraulic pressure system powered the automobile's windows, seats, sun-roof, boot lid, and automatically closing doors. Adjustable air suspension delivered excellent ride quality and sure handling over any road surface.
Great score Gary/Kyle! To answer your question from the other thread, the rebuild kit I used was Gates #350390. There are others, and most parts stores have a seal kit too (NAPA, etc...)
The rebuild is very simple with basic tools, all except the shaft bushing for which you pretty much need a shop press. My bushing was still good so I left the old one in. They usually are still good, and some rebuild kits don't even include a shaft bushing. Oh yeah, you also need a pulley puller to get the pulley off. But the rest of the process is very straightforward.
You can rent the puller from AutoZone/wherever but I bought the
kit. It was pretty cheap (<$40) and I like having my own tools. It worked great on the Saginaw, both to remove and re-install the pulley.
You certainly can powder coat the "ham can". The pump assembly pops out of the metal case and at that point there are no seals or anything else to damage. It's just a can.
Anyway, none of this is news to you Gary I know, but just thought I'd post it all in case it helps anyone else someday.