Wasn't aware of Nitroplate. Looks like they do hot things, like exhausts. Do they do other things also?

My plan is to go with headers and have them coated at Jet-Hot in Oklahoma City.

 

Yes I've heard of jet hot but seen some mixed reviews on them and saw pretty good reviews with nitro plate. Plus nitro plate is cheaper but only a 3 yr warranty.

Some reviews I saw on jet hot is that even though they have lifetime warranty...their workmanship has degraded and you would constantly be shipping the headers back. Some people had good work done by jet hot but I used nitro plate since I didnt have extra $100 to have them coated.

Costed me $288 to get my headers coated and shipped ($255 coat and $33 shipped).



Nitro plate will coat anything you have. Look at their pricing guide. They'll coat the intake manifold, etc

 

I'm only 120 miles from Jet Hot, so will probably give them a try. But, I will research Nitroplate. Thanks!

 

Gary, where is the how-to on modifying that alternator bracket? I have not been able to spot the step-by-step in your threads.

As I said, the 7/16 bolt is not engaging.

 

Critter - Just got home and found your notes and PM. There isn't a how-to but I have the pics and can throw something together quickly.

 

Please and thank you. I'm sure it will help others.

 

I got "the call" from Tim today saying that the engine parts are on their way. In fact, they may be in for my birthday on Sunday.

But, not everything is coming directly from Tim. The cam and guide plates are coming from Comp, and probably something else but I've forgotten what.

And, he offered me the 750 Street Demon that he bought and dyno'd at my request. It's the #1904 with the polymer body. So, I said "Sure, throw it in." Guess that decision's made. Looks like this:


Now I need to get a flywheel and damper for the machine shop to balance. Anyone have suggestions?

 

Didn't you already go through all kinds of contortions to get your flywheel to work with that ZF?

You aren't taking it to 10k, nor banging every shift at redline.
My truck had 300k HARD miles on its flywheel.
I changed it because of the larger clutch installed for my ZF swap.

Reading over on 460Ford.com Fluidamper has gone to ****.
Be VERY mindful of the depth you need to keep all those pulleys aligned.

 

The only thing I did to the flywheel itself was to move the ring gear 1/8" forward. That plus the 3/8" longer throw on the 351W automatic tranny starter equaled the 1/2" of the spacer. But, what I hadn't thought about was that the starter mounts to the tranny. So, since I put the flywheel where a 460's flywheel would be I should be using a 460's starter.

As for changing the flywheel, the one I have is for the smaller clutch of an M. I think this engine might need a bit more so I'll go with a 400 flywheel which takes the larger clutch.

 

I'm just saying it doesn't need to be SFI certified....
I forget, are you going mechanical or hydraulic?

 

Ok, I understand. Hydraulic.

 

I thought I remembered you doing the whole big Terrapin plate while your last bodyman had the cab on the rotisserie.

 

Yep. The cab's ready for the plate.

 

I'm having a lot of trouble finding a reasonably-priced 12" flywheel for the 400. Amazon has one for $35 but with shipping not happening for 2 to 5 weeks. I talked to them about it and they don't carry it in stock and rely on the vendor to ship it to them and then they ship it to me. And, when I tried to called Standard Flywheels, the vendor, no one answers and their voice mailbox is full. So that isn't comforting.

As it turns out, Tim has just announced that he is resurfacing and drilling 11" flywheels to take the 12" clutch of the 400. So, I just talked to Tim about the flywheel, clutch, etc. The bottom line is that he said I'll be fine with the 11" clutch I have. He said that while the engine will make gobs of torque the truck won't have that much traction so the weak link is the tires, not the clutch. And even if I pull a medium-sized boat that won't add all that much traction. Also, the clutch disk I have is for a 460 in an F250 so has good friction. Given that, unless I'm going to be towing a large goosenecked trailer with lots of weight the 11" clutch will be fine.

Also, Tim said the 351M flywheel, which is set up for an 11" clutch, is drilled for six bolts on a roughly even spacing. But the 400 flywheel, which is set up for a 12" clutch, is drilled for three groups of two bolts - but on a slightly smaller radius than the M's flywheel's holes. Here's a picture he posted of one he's resurfaced and drilled for the 12", with my red circles showing what I think are the 12" holes and the yellow ones being the 11" holes.





Anyway, he says that if later I decide I want a 12" clutch I can have it drilled for that and it won't change the balance.

Thoughts?

 

I think it's a great idea. I like versatility though. And Tim knows what he's doing.