Ok, Gary, how is he getting 434 ci with only a .030" overbore? He must be stroking it some.

On the cams, the bottom end gain is a whole lot more than the top end loss, I would definitely go with the 4° advance.

 

I hadn't noticed the "434". But it says "400" on the legend for all three cams. I think/hope the 434 is the designation for the run rather than the CI of the engine as the total should be 408 cubes.

But, I agree with the idea of advancing the cam. The engine doesn't need any help on the top end. Doesn't need it on the bottom end, either, but why not?

 

Unless you plan to wind the engine over 5K regularly, I'd say the low end gain is a no-brainer.

 

While I would like to say that I'll never wind it past 5K, I'm afraid the temptation will be more than I can stand. But, I do want the low end power instead of top end.

 

Is there even an adjustable timing set available for the M/400? If so will it work with the fuel pump eccentric or do you have to go electric?

 

Good question. Tim is supplying the timing set so I'd better check that it is adjustable.

 

I don't know if you recall the time we were checking to see if the Bronco cam needed to be advanced. I had bought an adjustable timing set for it just in case. However, it's a good thing we didn't need it because it wouldn't work with the fuel pump eccentric. I ended up selling it for what I had in it pretty quick thank goodness. I say some research is on order to make sure all your ducks are in a row.

 

Just got off the phone with Tim. The timing set I'm getting is adjustable. But, Comp may grind the 4 degrees into the cam so it'll install straight up. However, we haven't as yet settled on the cam spec's. He thinks he can print the details, like BMEP and BSFC, and email that to me, which will let me compare between the three runs, knowing that the 260HR is a baseline of sorts. Also, he is going to play with lobe separation, like going from 108 to 110 degrees, a bit to see what that does for power as well as BMEP & BSFC. Last, the "434" is just a designation and the CI is dialed in at 408.

Also, he has done the actual dyno runs of a 400 with a Street Demon 750 vs a Holley and says he has some posts on the 335 Forum about it. Plus, he's about to post the actual dyno #'s over there, so I'll go have a look.

 

I got the Gates "Cleveland-specific" thermostat, aka "bottom by-pass", in yesterday. I can't find the Robert-Shaw 195 as no one seems to be carrying them. But, here's a pic I posted a year ago as I was putting the 351M together that is now in Rusty. The RS is on the left w/the block-off cone showing, while a standard thermostat is on the right.




And, here's the Gates unit, #33129, which I got from Amazon for about $6:



If you aren't familiar with the 335 Series bypass system here's what I posted with the picture of that 'stat in my album:So, the question becomes what if you don't use that special thermostat on a 335 Series engine? That would mean that a portion of your coolant is bypassing the radiator and just going back through the engine. But, just how much is the question. I've done a cursory calculation and get that 12% of the flow would bypassing the radiator.

Here are a couple of pics of the opening that show my measurements. Maybe you can get a better guestimation?

 

The set Tim provides has a provision for standard timing, 4* advanced, and 4* retarded. This is accomplished on the crank gear, and not the cam gear, so there will be no effect on the fuel pump.

 

Thanks. But, don't miss my post re thermostats. Not sure what you are going to run, but....

 

I have a RS 180 in it now. I prefer to stay cool and take a little longer to warm up. I am also in a desert, so environment played a factor in the selection.

 

Good choice.

 

Ok guys, it is time to revive the discussion about color choices on the engine. So please give me your input on the questions at the bottom.

I modified the alternator/AIR pump bracket and it is mount. So, I think everything but the P/S pump & bracket is nailed down, and here's a quick update on that. I've called 8 different salvages around this area looking for a Saginaw pump, brackets, and hoses for an M/400. A couple are to get back with me on Monday, and I still have on-line searching to do, but it isn't looking good as the vehicles they were used in have mostly been crushed. So, I modified the standard M/400 A/C bracket to take the pivot bolt for the Windsor P/S pump mount. All it took was locating it and then drilling and tapping it 7/16-14. The metal there is 1/4" thick so it has fair purchase. And, there .150" clearance behind the bracket where I could weld a nut and then mill it down to that thickness if you think it needs to be .400" thick. But, it is in lateral stress positioning the pump rather than tension.

Here's a pic showing the new hole, which doesn't mean the bracket can't be used with another style pump.




And here are 3 views of the engine:










Here are the colors of things that I'm fairly sure of, although I could rethink them if someone had good suggestions:

• Old Ford Blue
  • Block
  • Pan
  • Valve cover sides and lettering
  • Dizzy cap and adapter - if I can find them in OFB
• Aluminum
  • Heads
  • Intake manifold
  • Air cleaner top
  • A/C compressor
  • Water pump
  • Thermostat housing
  • Alternator
  • Distributor
  • Power Steering pump bracket - the one to which the pump bolts
• Black
  • Pulleys

That really just leaves the brackets and the air cleaner base and snorkels. The conventional way would be to make them black, but that makes things even darker. So I could do the brackets in the "stamped steel" powder, and by brackets I mean those for the alternator, A/C compressor, and the P/S pump that bolts to the water pump.

As for the air cleaner base and snorkels, my brother suggested the stamped steel look for them as well to keep the amount of black low. After all, the fender liners, belts, hoses, radiator, radiator support, and the shroud will all be black.

So:

1. Do you agree with my thoughts above where I said I'm "fairly sure"?
2. What color for the brackets?
3. What color for the air cleaner base & snorkels?

 

Hot pink, with yellow & green fluorescent polka dots.