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Monte's 04 Build Thread

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Old Apr 16, 2015 | 06:55 AM
  #1366  
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That is pretty expensive. I would do gaskets and the little things that Travis is talking about. Maybe upgrade the head studs to ARP? Possible oil pump upgrades?

Just be careful so you don't get the motor in and then have to pull it back out in 10000 miles. That would just plain suck. Have you talked to some people to get opinions on a Cummins forum?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2015 | 09:55 AM
  #1367  
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Not yet i am registered on one but have not posted a thread topic yet, maybe it's time lol. Now that i will be getting into the swap in the coming months i need to get my plan together for it. I initially thought that i would just have the motor and trans rebuilt by cummins and allison (allison dealer is only 10 miles from me) and get warranty's on them vs me doing it for the first time and having no warranty lol.

If i don't i was going to basically do what you guys are saying do all the gaskets, water pump, oil pump , ARP studs etc. I wanna build it to hold 500hp and only shoot for 400 better safe than sorry.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2015 | 08:22 AM
  #1368  
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I am assuming you are going to straight to a triple turbo set up then.....


 
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Old Apr 17, 2015 | 02:38 PM
  #1369  
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Awe hells yeah! Lol still definitely doing twins but I may just leave the motor alone and freshen it up like I've been saying going on what the cummins guys have been saying.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 12:31 PM
  #1370  
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This is more of an FYI but I got my sending unit in Friday and then went away for a long weekend so I will be back at it tonight! Going to try and get most of the drivers side set up tonight and then pull it apart for paint hopefully by next week.

Also I am thinking about rehearing to 4.10s or 4.30s even though I'm going diesel because I think a combination of that and a few engine mods will get me where I want to be for way cheaper than just engine mods alone.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 01:26 PM
  #1371  
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Scratch that i am thinking 4.56's because 4.30' would put me back at an effective 3.08 and 4.56's would put me at an effective 4.08 so it will be like having 4.10's almost with 4.56 gearing. Also after doing some reading on the cummins forums people recommend them with 35's if you do occasional towing.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 09:28 AM
  #1372  
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Originally Posted by xmontex4
Scratch that i am thinking 4.56's because 4.30' would put me back at an effective 3.08 and 4.56's would put me at an effective 4.08 so it will be like having 4.10's almost with 4.56 gearing. Also after doing some reading on the cummins forums people recommend them with 35's if you do occasional towing.
I am not understanding your maths here.... could you elaborate?
 
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 09:55 AM
  #1373  
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Originally Posted by wizkid00104
I am not understanding your maths here.... could you elaborate?
I found the Maths recipe and its original tire size/new tire size x gears = effective ratio so I'm at 31/35x3.73= 3.08ish I think so if you do that with 4.30 gears it's a 3.80 ratio and 4.56 gears is about a 4.10 ratio I think feel free to check me I'm going from memory lol.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 10:16 AM
  #1374  
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In your previous post it had effective ratio of 3.08 instead of 3.80 and that really threw me off lol. Never mind...

How's progress?
 
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Old Apr 26, 2015 | 03:27 PM
  #1375  
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oh my bad haha, i didn't make any progress this weekend on the 250 because i had to watch the dog all weekend and it wasn't safe to have him in the garage with me and metal shavings getting all over the ground. My parents just go home so now i can go in the garage and work while the dog stays inside lol. Gonna try and get those rivets out tonight and start the drivers side hangers.

However i made some progress on my 150 this weekend because i can put it in the backyard and let the dog run around lol, i am waiting for the photos to upload to photobucket then i can post them Andrew saw on facebook already lol.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2015 | 02:04 PM
  #1376  
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Yes I did looks pretty good. That plastidip cover things up nice doesn't it.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2015 | 06:03 PM
  #1377  
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indeed man the whole truck is getting a temporary plastidip paint job lol

unfortunatley i wont be making any progress during this week fella's i am flying out on business tomorrow and returning friday morning only to go away with the family until saturday morning at Foxwoods to see Impractical Jokers live lol. if you dont watch that show watch it it's hilarious, however! i will be back at it on sunday all day again so i will have a good solid day of work on the truck.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2015 | 07:01 AM
  #1378  
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I say you bed line the entire F150! No metal work needed, just a **** ton of bondo!
 
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Old May 3, 2015 | 08:06 PM
  #1379  
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Lol i thought about it, i may just bondo the areas that need it get some cut out flares and bigger tires and call it a day lol.

Question for you guys, i am starting to get geared back up for ordering parts for the Cummins swap and i was wondering if its possible to pull the entire 5.4 engine and tranny out at once if it the tranny needs to be dropped. I was going to get two dollies and just rest it on them so i can roll them around. I want to get the engine out so i can start preping the engine bay by painting and wiring it nicely. It will also make it easier to paint all the spots i need to with POR while i rebuild the engine. I talked with my soon to be father in law and he said i he would give me a hand rebuilding the axles, Allison, and Cummins so i will do that with him one at a time. I want to start removing the 5.4l other than draining the radiator are there any other things i need to be aware of other than disconnecting all the wiring and fuel lines?

Oh also I may have been a little tipsy since work bought dinner and drinks while i was away and may have bought my Glow Shift guages, the Hutchmod parts and almost bought a winch but realized i should wait until i get my bumper lol. I also got my new headliner board in Friday so i should be covering and installing it this week/weekend.
 
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Old May 3, 2015 | 09:12 PM
  #1380  
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I have seen pictures on here with the front end removed. Don't see a reason the whole swap can't be removed together. Are you planning on selling it as a set?
 
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