Monte's 04 Build Thread
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
This is true...ok bedliner it is! i wanted to get some to try painting the F150 a little anyway! lol
BTW guys i am just trying to figure out how to remove my bushings easily lol or if i just want to take them to a shop to have then done super fast instead. I am going camping this weekend however i want to before i leave get the ex skid plate cut and painted, the leaf bushings pressed out and then the leafsprings hung after everything is torqued.
BTW guys i am just trying to figure out how to remove my bushings easily lol or if i just want to take them to a shop to have then done super fast instead. I am going camping this weekend however i want to before i leave get the ex skid plate cut and painted, the leaf bushings pressed out and then the leafsprings hung after everything is torqued.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
Yeah i will see what shops around have then available because i would get a press but there is no room for it right now in the garage to put it anywhere and then work with it.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
Gents i apologize for not updating but i went away for the weekend to Maine to go camping, i brought the "metal tent" aka the Expedition because our tent was broken and an SUV air mattress was cheaper than a new tent if i wanted it a day before we left lol.
anywho i installed all the parts on the frame finally! i got some new sawzall blades on our way home last night and i will be cutting the Ex tank tonight to get it ready for the final install. Once i cut it i will test ft it take some pictures of course then i got some duplicolor bed armor i am going to spray on the inside and if it stays really tough after it dried i will do the outside. I got it mainly to keep the tank from moving around, not that it will but the plate originally had some rubber pads that fell off after i removed the tank from the plate.
anywho i installed all the parts on the frame finally! i got some new sawzall blades on our way home last night and i will be cutting the Ex tank tonight to get it ready for the final install. Once i cut it i will test ft it take some pictures of course then i got some duplicolor bed armor i am going to spray on the inside and if it stays really tough after it dried i will do the outside. I got it mainly to keep the tank from moving around, not that it will but the plate originally had some rubber pads that fell off after i removed the tank from the plate.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
I got the Ex skid plate and 50% painted last night here are the pics! the corners were hardest to cut because i only had a sawzall so i did several relief cuts banged out the tabs with a hammer then cut them off one at a time. Also FYI i ordered some of the parts i am going to use to rebuild my rear end, I ordered a Detroit TrueTrac LS diff and an SVL 4.56 ring and pinion set.
Cuts pics:
Finished product:
Painted the inside: (FYI this was only 1 coat i did 4)
I will be painting the outside of it either today or tomorrow it depends if the rain lets up tonight long enough for it all to dry. I used black duplicolor bed armor and the stuff actually works really well.
Cuts pics:
Finished product:
Painted the inside: (FYI this was only 1 coat i did 4)
I will be painting the outside of it either today or tomorrow it depends if the rain lets up tonight long enough for it all to dry. I used black duplicolor bed armor and the stuff actually works really well.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
Thanks, I canceled the order because i realized that the gears were for a 10.25 axle and in order to use them i need to rebuild the whole thing with a 10.25 bearing kit. Is it worth rebuilding the axle with new bearings and what not? i only have 104k on the truck i figured they would be fine but at the same time while i am in there it might be worth the extra money to just do it all.
Also where did you get your gears? I was going to go with Yukon since they were the only ones i found as of right now in the actual 10.5" axle size.
Also where did you get your gears? I was going to go with Yukon since they were the only ones i found as of right now in the actual 10.5" axle size.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
Haha that's a long time! I can barley take the 35's with 3.73 gears i am hoping the 12v with 4.56's will be a a hell of a lot different.
I guess I will go with a master rebuild kit then and just get everything to rebuild the rear end while i am in there, can't hurt to have a rear end with 0 miles on i once it's put back together. Ill be doing the front end to but waiting until the back is complete first.
I guess I will go with a master rebuild kit then and just get everything to rebuild the rear end while i am in there, can't hurt to have a rear end with 0 miles on i once it's put back together. Ill be doing the front end to but waiting until the back is complete first.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 274
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From: Bakken
How were the 5.38 with 38's? I'm planning on going with 5.13's and a locker when I get 35's.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Tewksbury, MA
Garrick i would personally go with 4.30 or 4.56 gears with 35's and the 5.4l it will make it just like stock tires and your MPG's will remain mostly the same. I hated my truck on the highway i rode the slow lane could not pass for crap i usually ended up in 2nd gear to try and speed up from OD. If you are towing a lot though then 5.13's are probably a safe bet.
Only reason i am going with 4.56's and the cummins is to sacrafice some MPG's (will still be better thn a 5.4l and 35's on stock gears lol) and save myself some money on engine upgrades that would get me the same power with higher gears.
Only reason i am going with 4.56's and the cummins is to sacrafice some MPG's (will still be better thn a 5.4l and 35's on stock gears lol) and save myself some money on engine upgrades that would get me the same power with higher gears.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Tewksbury, MA
OK Gents i need some feedback please on my planned motor upgrades. I am trying to create a budget that way i can get on track to finish this thing by the end of the year so the body shop can take it and I'll hve it for spring. My transmission is handled i know what i need for it but as far as pushing 300-400hp and not running too high of EGTs or risking anything how does this set up sound for the motor?
Parts (Revised for 300hp 8/6/15):
- Killer Dowel Pin Bracket
- 3200 Gov Spring
- Denny T Fuel Pin
- HX35 Turbo
- 5x12 Injectors
Total Build Cost: $1177
Should i get head work done maybe? not sure with those twins if i need it people go back and forth about it all the time. I am building the tranny to hold 600hp so i am not worried about it. Only other thing i may do is if the EGT's are too high i may add a water/meth injection kit eventually because i decided it's probably not really needed anymore and i could use the bed space.
Also is it really worth rebuilding the motor it has only 220k on it and these things last forever... not sure what to do that saves me a grand if i skip it.
Parts (Revised for 300hp 8/6/15):
- Killer Dowel Pin Bracket
- 3200 Gov Spring
- Denny T Fuel Pin
- HX35 Turbo
- 5x12 Injectors
Total Build Cost: $1177
Should i get head work done maybe? not sure with those twins if i need it people go back and forth about it all the time. I am building the tranny to hold 600hp so i am not worried about it. Only other thing i may do is if the EGT's are too high i may add a water/meth injection kit eventually because i decided it's probably not really needed anymore and i could use the bed space.
Also is it really worth rebuilding the motor it has only 220k on it and these things last forever... not sure what to do that saves me a grand if i skip it.