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Thanks! I cranked it out yesturday it was 75* out finally and its only the second day above 50* lol, this week is supposed to be all in the 60-70's. Once i figure out a way to get the bottom of those spare tire carrier mounts off i will be in even better shape to finish the Ex tank install.
Question for you guys, tonight i was going to do that Harpoon mod on the Ex tank but is the Hutch mod the same as when done on other SD PSD tanks? Also i should have my New sending unit in the next day or so thanks to Andrew again for that find!
Also Here are some screen shots of the spacers i am going to make, right now its two 4" pieces held together by 4 bolts and the daystar cradle only uses a center bolt hence the reason for the smaller hole in the center only. This will likely change as i am realizing as i type this that if i use it the way i am intending then i can attach the cradle attach then together and then have no way to tighten it to the lower mounts lol.
EDIT: Scratch my previous statement i can still do it if i attach the lower airlift mount and the cradle then bolt the pieces together!
Yes the Hutch and Harpoon are the same for the truck vs excursion. The point of the mod is to add more room for fuel and to alleviate the foaming backup issue when filling, and to move the return line away from the pickup.
That unit I found already has the screens taken off so you are half way complete on the Hutch mod! Just need to extend the pickup down to the bottom of the tank and extend the return line out away from the pickup by a few feet or so.
Check you out! that should be easy enough, the kit i saw was on Guzzle's site and i knew i didn't need the whole filter set up with the airdog. So i wont need to do anything except enlarge the hole in the pick up foot then.
Tonight i am hoping to remove the rivets that are still in place from the old passenger hanger and then finish drilling out the passenger 08 hanger holes. might even get tot eh drivers side tonight! gotta remove all the wiring and brake/fuel lines first though over there.
I just saw that thanks for the reps. Glad to help where I can. That is one of the good things that came out of my swap is that I had to dive pretty deep into everything. Enough knowledge to be dangerous sometimes. lol
Ok guys here is a small update compared to yesterdays but i got all the bolts snugged up on my hangers and hung the axle under the springs on some jack stands. I did this so i can start to disassemble the brakes and paint the pieces while still keeping the axle under the truck for when i star the passenger side hanger install.
Starting to look all clean in the garage again now that parts are actually mounted lol. I am going to paint one frame rail at a time in order to be able to keep one side assembled during painting to reduce clutter.
Also i was going to try and unbolt my exhaust but the exhaust clamps were so rusted i had to just hack saw the tail pip off so now it stops just shy of the back of the cab. I Hun the exhaust briefly back on its hangers and it will contact my springs while stationary not even just under flex. So i will likely do stacks now since i cannot put the tailpipe under the rear door because of my amp steps and i cant go just behind the cab because the springs goes the length of the frame.
Ok guys been thinking about it an my cummins motor only has 220k and from my research that's just breaking it in really. I am thinking its not worth rebuilding because from the sound of it the motor ran great and was just used as a daily driver/work truck in its previous chassis.
I was looking it up and at 400hp these motors don't require much if anything to hold that power. So I was thinking about just freshening up the motor with all new gaskets and some exterior hardware if necessary. Is there anything else I should probably do? I was just going to leave the motor alone basically and paint it when I'm done with the gaskets and everything.
I agree with trav. Anything cheap and easy to replace while the motor is on the stand, go for it. Inspect as much as you can while the motor is out. If the block still has oil in it, send an oil sample out for evaluation. That will tell you if there is any metal in the oil that would indicate bearing wear of failure. 220k is low for a diesel, but if the engine was not well maintained it could be like 880k.
Remember you are trusting someone's word on it who was trying to make money. I'm not calling him a liar, but it's just something to keep in mind.
I forgot about getting the oil tested I will have to do that. That's one of the reasons I was going to rebuild it is basically you start fresh but I don't have the skill and everywhere I read it's like 5k to have a motor rebuilt it seems. That is usually parts and labor though and I would purchase my own parts.
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