Yep just waiting for the first day above 60* to paint it. Same as always silver POR with chassis black top coat. I will be ordering the new shock towers this weekend as well, the airbags got delayed and should be in early this week.

 

Made more progress today damn when you have the right tools the job gets so much easier and done quicker. I removed the rivets on the top of the frame rail holding the brace pieces in on the passenger side. I also busted out my new impact gun and got the shackles off of the springs so I can reuse them again. I am still having trouble with the drivers side spring however I loosened the shackle so I could rotate it forward and now I can drill out the hanger bolts and pry the bolt off from the back instead once it's off. I will likely do that tonight as now I have to watch the dog lol.

 

Nice work!

 

Thanks, today i will get the drivers side spring off finally when i get out of my late class tonight, goal is to have all the hangers, shock mounts, bump stops, and Xbrace pieces removed and the new hangers temporarily hung by this weekend. Over the weekend i will prep the frame for paint by removing the scaling rust and then just wait for the first above 60* day lol. While i ait i will drill any hols and modify the Ex tank skid plate to get it mounted as well as remove the fuel and brake lines to get ready for paint and the AirDog i will need to get before i start the bed project lol.

 

Yeah I hear ya - I'm working on a 94 Bronco... had to remove the radius arm brackets, I thought of ya as I was drilling the rivets out!

 

Nice progress

 

Its been 3 days... is the truck done yet?

 

It must be... probably out driving it.

 

Been ripping donuts for the past 24 hours lol...no work has been killing me worked 70 hours last week and i am already at like 30-35ish with school this week so thats like 50 with school lol. Had time to eat sleep work and repeat that's it. Have not gotten anything i planned to get done this week started yet however tonight and tomorrow night look promising.

Jeremy i still have thats fastener site you gave to me a while ago but i have a though time picking out bolts. Which ones would you recommend for the cross member after i remove the front hanger? fine thread i would assume is the best becasue the stress distributes across more threads in a larger area vs 3 or 4 in the same area. Also do you use a washer on the head and nut side? i need to get nuts as well... lol sorry brain is mush running on 2 hours sleep today...

Reason for the washed question is PMF gave me 12 washers for 6 bolts on my rear hangers lol so i figured one on each side (head and nut) correct?

I literally read this 6 times to correct all my spelling mistakes...I'm going to sleep under my desk...goodnight lol

 

You still spelled tough wrong

I always go overkill, but if I was doing it, I would use grade 8 bolts, course thread. The coating and better alloy of steel hold up well to the elements, especially when compared to a grade 5. GR8 course is much more common if you ever need replacements.

Fine thread gives you a greater surface area of contact and lower thread pitch which means you can increase your clamp load. See link below for actual numbers....

https://www.fastenal.com/content/fed...0Gr8%20Gr9.pdf

That being said, I only use fine thread in very specific applications where the clamp load is important. For instance, axle u-bolts are usually fine thread because you but a huge clamp load on them to hold the axle to the block and spring. This cross member is important, but I think you can achieve adequate clamp load with course thread.

I use course thread everywhere else underneath because these are the bolts that are subject to dirt, grime, and corrosion. The threads themselves should last longer than a fine thread, so that equates to less stripping in my mind.

I did my cross member and bracket as such...

GR8 bolt
GR8 flat washer
FRAME
CROSS MEMBER
GR8 flat washer
GR8 lock washer
GR8 nut



And don't forget to anti-seize!!! And remember, anti-seize is a lubricant and it lowers the tightening torque of the bolt to achieve the same clamp load.

With all that being said, using fine thread is up to you. If you want something even more strong, use F911 bolts. But I think grade 8 course will be sufficient

 

Thanks man! ...i cant believe i missed that word lol. Anyway that's a great help i will go course threads then and dont worry i bought a big thing of anti seize a few weeks ago lol. I prefer overkill as well IMO better safe than sorry, i was definitely going to use some Grade 8 bolts i will be bolt shopping at lunch today lol.

 

Oh great. Someone mentioned anti seize. Now it's everywhere.

 

Lol when looking for bolts i need them to be 3/8" in diameter because that's what the rivet holes are not 1/2" like i originally thought a 5/8" 11-2" is that 5/8" head 11 pitch and 2" length? sorry i am usually good at this my mind can only comprehend that it's hungry currently lol.

 

IS THAT WHAT THIS CRAP IS ON MY KEYBOARD......

 

True story right there I can put on one bolt and later on, I am trying to figure our why it is in my ear...