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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Rusty

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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 04:44 PM
  #631  
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Gary, you'll have to keep Rusty around after Dad's truck is done for something to haul the heavy damaging stuff!
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 06:35 PM
  #632  
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Originally Posted by bruno2
I was under the impression the cross was cut so that the support could be moved left to right or front to back in order to get the body panels to align correctly?
I'm not so sure about that. The bolt from the mount is too big to go in the slots. So I think it is a dished washer that provides flexibility to the core support. But, that's just a guess.

Originally Posted by FordFETruck
Gary, you'll have to keep Rusty around after Dad's truck is done for something to haul the heavy damaging stuff!
I would like to do that, although my wife doesn't think that's going to happen.


As for what I did today, the radiator, A/C condenser, and fan shroud are now in. Not nearly what I expected to get done, but I ran into some problems with the shroud. I'd forgotten that the tabs on it were in bad shape, so when I started to install it I realized that wasn't going to work. That put me into what-to-do mode and I finally came up with what I think is a good solution. I used a Dremel to cut out the tabs, leaving just the shoulders on either side. Then I cut a piece of 1" wide strap 2 1/2" long and bent it 90˚ in the middle. I drilled and taped it 1/4-20 on one leg and drilled it to take two #10 screws on the other. Then I bent the end of that leg to follow the contour of the shroud. I then put it in place and drilled through the shroud using the holes for the screws as guides. A few #10 screws, washers, and nuts later they were mounted on the shroud, and by adding the 1/4-20 bolts and washers the shroud was in place, and solid for a change. Tomorrow I'll powder coat them and move on to radiator hoses, tranny cooling lines, etc.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 08:06 PM
  #633  
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Is that a big band aid riveted to it?
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 08:08 PM
  #634  
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I think it is!
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 08:19 PM
  #635  
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4 or 5 trucks in pieces/parts and there's not one good shroud?

Wow, that is not good.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 08:37 PM
  #636  
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Do you want to back flush and vacuum/charge the AC this weekend?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 08:23 AM
  #637  
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Bruno - No, I'm focused on getting it running now. Next spring will be the time to do the A/C. But thanks anyway.

Yes, that is a band-aid, or a "sticking plaster" as the Brits would say. That's Dad's handiwork as it is off his truck. And, the one that was on Rusty is better so it goes on Dad's. Unless I can figure out how to fit the perfect 85 shroud, but they are different and I didn't want to take the time yesterday to figure out how to do that. So, I took several hours to make those straps?

Speaking of the straps, it occurred to me last night that it would have been better to have notched the front edge of the shroud and put the strap under the shroud rather than on top. It would mean that the upright portion would need to be a little longer, but it would hide the strap. And, the typical force on the shroud is down, like when I am working on the engine, so it would provide much better support for that old plastic.

How many of you have problems with the ears breaking off of the shrouds? Is this something that would benefit a lot of FTE'ers?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 10:16 AM
  #638  
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Gary , before I forget here is the part number for the AC O ring kit and it is good for both Murray and Factory Air brands:26721.

Also here is a link to a pic of the 16 ga CRC U channel I was telling about. I feel like this would be a good product to use for the additional "Z" strut . http://www.clarkdietrich.com/products/bridging-bracing/u-channel-crc

I think the application should be used with one piece laying flat against the bottom of the body and another piece stood up on end welded to the leg of the flat piece and that would give us the "Z" as well as be more stout than what Ford used. It will have to be bent, but that's what the material is made to do.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 10:23 AM
  #639  
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Originally Posted by bruno2
Gary , before I forget here is the part number for the AC O ring kit and it is good for both Murray and Factory Air brands:26721.

Also here is a link to a pic of the 16 ga CRC U channel I was telling about. I feel like this would be a good product to use for the additional "Z" strut . http://www.clarkdietrich.com/products/bridging-bracing/u-channel-crc

I think the application should be used with one piece laying flat against the bottom of the body and another piece stood up on end welded to the leg of the flat piece and that would give us the "Z" as well as be more stout than what Ford used. It will have to be bent, but that's what the material is made to do.
Thanks. May be some time before I need it, but I'll have the info.

As for the seat support conversation, let's take it over to Dad's Truck Build as that's where I'll go looking for it in the future. I'll post your link there awa any pictures we come up with. Tnx.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 05:31 PM
  #640  
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Jim, you have to remember he is into those weird engines that were only in these trucks until 1982. If he were using a more common engine it would be easier. The other issue is 1980-81 or 2 are different from the later radiator setup.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 05:39 PM
  #641  
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Originally Posted by 85lebaront2
Jim, you have to remember he is into those weird engines that were only in these trucks until 1982. If he were using a more common engine it would be easier. The other issue is 1980-81 or 2 are different from the later radiator setup.
Couldn't have said it better myself.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 07:05 PM
  #642  
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Studiously ignoring the jabs about my "wierd" engine choice, I will say that the info re the radiator setup is roughly correct. Somewhere between 82 and 85 the radiators, core supports, shrouds, and ..... tranny cooling lines changed. (I know I could figure out exactly when it changed via the catalog - if I really cared.) And, while I have a very good shroud put back it is from an 85 so I'll have to see if I can adapt it to the radiator for Dad's truck, although a quick look today says that shouldn't be too difficult.

So, how do I know the tranny cooling lines changed? Because I tried to hook the lines I installed on Rusty to the radiator that came on Dad's truck. No way, Jose. So, I had to pull the radiator, shroud, and condenser to get the lines out and put another set in. Apparently I put the set in from the 85 w/o realizing it. Luckily I'm getting good at getting those things on and off, so it didn't take too long.

Then I hooked up the radiator hoses (boy, am I glad I hadn't done that) and filled it up with coolant. Or, as much coolant as you can get in w/o actually filling the heater core, which sits above everything.

After that I installed the tranny cooler - the big one I had. In the picture you can see the two sizes, just for comparison - the one on the right is actually installed. Tomorrow I'll get 8' of 3/8" hose and some split loom to protect it and hook the cooler up. Does anyone know which line from a C6 is "out" vs "in"? Or, which connection on the radiator is out? I'd like to hook the cooler up ahead of the radiator so in the winter the tranny fluid will get warmed a bit before going back into the tranny.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 07:33 PM
  #643  
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Seemed to me like the front port on the C6 is the pressure port. IOW its pushing it into the cooler/radiator. I don't think it really matters on the which radiator port question because the lines are made to go in certain ones. I don't think you can get them backwards and if you did I cant see why it would matter.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2013 | 07:36 PM
  #644  
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The reason for asking on the radiator was so I didn't have to follow the line all the way from the tranny. If someone said "the port at the top of the radiator is always input" then I'd know.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 02:45 PM
  #645  
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The front port on the trans is the outlet, Gary; the rear port is cooled oil return.

On the radiator, the top port is hot-in; bottom is cooled-out (same as the coolant).
 
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