Good luck, Gary. It sounds like you need a lot of it.

 

I'm with Gary on this one. The rear intake seal can leak copious amounts of oil, from a rather small hole.
Doesn't make sense, as there's no pressurized oil at the base of the intake. Just splash oil, but that's enough to make a big mess, especially with a hole even bigger than the tiny little one Gary has.
That is the primary reason most people say to toss the rubber or cork "end pieces" from an intake gasket set, and use RTV instead.

 

Well , Kris started his Summer job last Friday. This Friday will be his first full weeks wages. I am having him put most of it in the bank so he can buy a "truck". It will be his first vehicle and wont be able to drive it until he gets his permit in September. I am sure when he sees his first 40 hr check the notion of buying a vehicle for a few months down the road will be the last thing on his mind. I would be willing to bet he could blow it all on soda pop and pinwheels if I would let him. It will be all he can do to maintain hs composure when the firework stands open in a couple weeks too.

OTOH his sister Meghan has a Bronco with a "presumed" blown headgasket and it has been dry docked for the last couple of weeks. However, I have been helping my neighbor James with his kitchen remodel and he feels as though he owes me some kind of debt for it. I figure we will change the headgasket together just like we would have even if I didnt help him in the kitchen. He doesnt jump into construction stuff like I do because he lacks confidence in that area. Sometimes I dont jump off into automotive mechanics like he does because I lack some confidence there. So at times it is almost as if we were destined to meet up with each other.


Also I believe it is set in stone now that we will be closing on our new house either Friday or Monday.

It will truly be sad to move away from my buddy,but, I think I will be popping by his place from time to time.

 

It is good to have company. I'm hoping the intake and associated seals will come off such that we'll know for sure. With the batteries charged I'll get a pic or two. But, that washed spot on the block is a dead giveaway that something has been running down there.

So, what kind of truck is Kris looking for???? And, is he working at the body shop? Where he'll get some help doing paint and body work? To cover surface rust and minor dings?

Yes, I'm sure James will want to help on the head gasket, but will there will be some head work done prior to that? Sounds like that will have to happen at the new place as the Bronco will be down when move time comes. Anyway, I'm sure it'll be sad moving away from James - you two are obviously good friends and, with your combined knowledge, can tackle many things together.

 

Kris is working with me at the time. It looks like work will be thinning out in a month or so. Hopefully the body shop will need a helper by then. That way he can learn to fix and repair miner dings and surface rust. He needs an older Ford truck for a starter vehicle. Possibly an auto with 4x4. The days of driving a stick are coming to a close it seems. I know several adults that dont even have a clue about deiving standaeds. I am sure will Kris will eventually learn the ropes of the standard tranny.

Once the head comes off we will have to inspect the flatness of the head surface in order to determine if it is spec or not. That will determine if it needs to go to the machine shop or not.

 

Gary,

Back in the day, we used to use Glytphal to seal small cracks and porosity in british bike castings.
Triumph, BSA, Norton all had castings that were more like a sponge.
Sometimes if you put too much into say a Norton Combat without switching to straight cut gears the castings would develop cracks around the bearing housings.
IF you caught it in time and used gears that didn't put sideways pressure on the cases you could just 'Paint it Red' on the inside and stop the leak.

 

Combat? I've been around a Commander, but not a Combat. Had a Beeser as well. And, come to think of it, the case had been heliarced by the output shaft. That makes sense now.

But, I don't think this is a casting problem. I think it is a lack of sealant problem. And maybe if I'd quite typing and start working I'd find out!? Anyway, thanks for the suggestion but I hope I won't need it.

 

So, what's wrong in the first picture. The first person to answer correctly gets "it" sent to them. (Actually, no. I'm keeping it to remind me.)

And, the next few pictures show what I found - a leak under the valley pan. The first of that three shows things before I pulled the manifold, and the silver tab is part of the valley pan. The second of those shows things after pulling the intake - and you can see where the oil was washing and where it just gunked up. And the wire hasn't been moved in that picture. The last of those shows an oil's-eye-view of the little channel under the pan and over the rear wall of the valley - which doesn't have any scratch, groove, or porosity.

Also, I forgot that I checked the harmonic balancer for runout today. Got the dial indicator set up on a magnetic base and adjusted just right and when I started turning the crank the balancer moved so far I ran out of travel on the indicator. THEN I looked at the outside ring - it is sitting on crooked, with maybe an 1/8" of runout easily visible. Pulled the indicator, base, etc and shook my head. Guess it's time for a new one.

Hmmm, I think it is now time to change over to Dad's Truck Build thread. I have some questions about powder coating so will post them there as they are about that truck rather than Rusty.

 

Gary, I have to say that I'm disappointed that you used that type of link. Even if it was rated at 20,000 lbs, I still don't trust them. Nothing beats a good old fashioned hook with a clasp.

 

I've picked up many, many heavy things with those links. And, as long as they are properly closed they work very well. In fact, they can be unscrewed with my fingers, so they obviously didn't bend at all. And, I guess I didn't stress the "closed properly" bit, which is what I didn't do this time. In fact, I didn't close it at all.

 

I am a rocket geek.

I have had a 1/8" 316 stainless quicklink tested to destruction at the Allegheny National labratory.
It tested at 3,369# before failure and was still able to be unscrewed.



HPR Strength of Materials - Rocket Hardware (Data)

 

So, my 5/16" plated quicklink, which has almost 8 times the area of a 1/8" link, was probably adequate for the little M-block - assuming the link was closed?

 

All I know is that the proof test was over 10X the SWL for all samples tested

Notice there's much more elongation in the stainless sample than the regular zinc plated steel one.
(also almost 50% more tensile strength at failure)

 

You guys don't really want to know what I did for 30 years. Suffice it to say I have broken my share of chains, cables, shackles etc. to establish safety factors. What we did find was BE DAMN SURE OF ORIGIN!! We had some counterfeit shackles that failed very low, we also found you do not mix parts between brands. I am very picky about my lifting gear as a result. I will spend the money for a good American made shackle or clevis rather than trust anything Chinese made.

 

Working for where I do, we cannot use anything:

#1 that has not been tested.
#2 that is not US made. Some of the Chinese and other shackles ocassionally make it into the shop, but are immediately cut up and thrown in the metal recycling bin.