Not sure I can answer the question, but here's what the catalog has for the 87 & on, one for gas and one for diesel engines:

 

Carbed engines had the tanks mounted along the inside of the fender. EFI engines were mounted right in front of the underhood power dist/fuse-relay block. 90 degrees from the carb setup.
Diesels used 2 separate tanks, one mounted to the inner fender, and the other to the side of the first. Yes, the diesel also had a larger coolant bottle. Probably a larger washer bottle too.

 

Thanks for the pic's Gary.
I only saw the one diesel bottle on the LMC page.

My carbureted engine seems to have the tanks pictured 'with MFI'
They are deeper and the coolant bottle has a step.

Now I can see how it all goes together.

 

My dad's old 87 F150 has what looks to be the w/o MFI bottle, even though his truck was a 302 w/MFI.

I just found a video I took where you can clearly see the coolant bottle.

 

But that wouldn't work with the toolbox!

 

I like your idea better. But good luck to me on finding a factory toolbox!

 

Sorry. Didn't mean to brag.

 

Took Rusty to T-town today. Dropped Janey at the mall and I tooled over to the machine shop and picked up a few things - which will be exhibited in Dad's Engine. Anyway, Rusty ran flawlessly on the 85 mile round trip. So, he's gonna get to go to Kansas tomorrow to see Toto.

Part of the plan to take Rusty tomorrow is because I'll be pulling the AFR meter off of him soon, so want to get some data runs logged. But, here's what I saw on today's log. This is a snippet cruising at 65 MPH, which he loves to do with the current jetting. And yes, I haven't fixed the RPM issue yet. Anyway, he's cruising between 14.7 and 15.5:1 at about 13" of vacuum. And the change you see at about 1:41:28 is me letting off the throttle slightly, which causes the mix to go a bit richer and the vacuum to rise - which is down on the graph. Then you can see that I eased back into it and maintained the previous speed, AFR, etc.




Also, when we climbed into Rusty each time today we were greated with a pungent oil odor. I lubed the lock mechanism in both doors with this, and if any of you've used it you know what that odor is like.




And, apparently it wicks or creeps a bit, but the locks work great.

 

I took Rusty up to see Dad. Filled up before going, which would be yesterday's trip to get the engine, and it took 10 gallons and was setting exactly on 1/4 tank. That gave 12.25 MPG for an 85 mile trip of 20% city and 80% highway. Filled up after today's trip and it took 14 gallons and was sitting on 1/8 tank. That gave a round-trip MPG of 12.75, which wasn't bad considering the wind - 25 MPH and seemingly head-on whichever way I turned. Boy, was it noisy!

Rusty ran well but I think there's a cooling problem. I say that because ever since I put him back together the gauge has been creeping up higher than I think it should, as it did again today. But I don't really know if it is truly warm as I don't yet have an aftermarket gauge on. So soon I'm going to put the gauges on that were destined for Dad's truck and may out them in the pocket to the right of the steering column. I checked that spot out today as I drove and it will work perfectly as it is quite visible due to the angle of the center of the wheel.

But, if I do have a heating problem I'm torn as to what to do. Rusty came with a fairly new aluminum radiator that I was going to put on Dads truck as I put Dad's heavy brass unit on Rusty. So I could put that back on Rusty and plan to put a new one on Dad's, or I could attempt to clean the brass unit with flushing and a cleaner. Thoughts?

 

Is the radiator really scaly inside?
You seem on top of maintenance, I can't imagine...

There's no good reason why a highway cruise should overheat Rusty.
I think a real gauge or shooting the filler neck with an infrared gun would tell the tale.
You have a proper 335 style thermostat in him, correct?

Really, you need to do some calibration on your gauge.
Where is 195 -where the thermostat opens?
212 boiling at STP.
225 about where you should begin to get concerned.
245 what I would call redline.

What pressure cap do you have on him?
You just played with the catch bottle, correct?
Is the system full?
Did you have the heads off and fail to re-torque? (do the headgaskets not call for a re-torque?)

Use the noncontact thermometer and calibrate it on a pot of boiling water.
Emissivity for a shiny metal surface, unless Rusty's water neck is PC.
Then use some cardboard to cut down airflow as you check the outlet temp, and make note, or hashmarks with grease pencil to show where you are.

At least that's what I would do.
Couldn't take more than a half hour.

 

See below in green.

 

Well hell, if the ICVR is whacked why are you scaring all of us like that????

Just replace the darn thing before you bother to do anything else.
35 year old spring and a set of points, what do you expect?

 

Sorry, didn't meant to scare you. But, the ICVR's only glitched once that I've caught. However, that is the first thing to replace. You are right.

 

Jim - You asked if the radiator is scaly. Does this answer the question? This is as it was when I pulled the cap this morning after it cooled from yesterday's 200+ mile drive at 65 MPH and 93 degrees into a 25 MPH head-wind.




And, if you look closely at the picture above you'll see that the coolant is literally flowing into the hose. So, I'd say all of the air is out of the system, although apparently not all of it was prior to the drive as the coolant recovery tank is down a bit. Here's a pic of that, and the combo of the two pictures is why I like the later model bottle with the connection at the bottom - there are no worries about the cooling system pulling in air as it cools unless you've let the bottle get completely empty.

 

Well, Rusty does have a cooling system problem. It may be that it isn't a "cooling" problem, but there certainly is a system problem:




The piece of tape is marking where there was a small spot of coolant the other day when I pulled Rusty out. Looks like I park in about the same place each time. And, here's a look down the front of the radiator on the passenger's side - where there are no connections to leak.




Apparently the radiator has a pin-hole on the front side and is spraying coolant forward. Guess it is time for the aluminum radiator he came with to be put back in. And, while I'm at it I'll put the aftermarket gauges in as well as an ICVR replacement - a real voltage regulator. But, that'll have to wait a bit as I'm gonna play with Dad's engine a bit first. However, Rusty needs to be ready to go by Thanksgiving to go get the Chebby.