Rusty
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I have the little collared expansion jaws for my slide hammer.
But I also have a whole bunch of 1/2-20 nuts with different bolts welded to them...
Like Bruno says, just tap it and fit up the slide hammer.
A couple of whacks and it's out.
But I also have a whole bunch of 1/2-20 nuts with different bolts welded to them...
Like Bruno says, just tap it and fit up the slide hammer.
A couple of whacks and it's out.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Thread Starter
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Steps 1 & 2 Are Done!
As you will see in the attached to-do list as well as pictures (w/o pic's it didn't happen?) I got Rusty apart and out of the shop today. I'll be starting on the next step, working Rusty's engine over, tomorrow. But first I have to clean the shop up, put tools away, etc.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Oil Leak Found?!
Got to looking at the back of the engine today and I think I've found the oil leak. In the first picture you see a view of the rear of the engine showing the back of the intake manifold and the back top of the block. For reference, the oil pressure sending unit is on the far right and the connection is on the aftermarket oil pressure gauge is the brass fitting. And, in the red circle is something suspicious.
In the second picture, taken from a bit lower and closer you'll see back past the bottom of the rubber valley gasket. And, in both pictures notice the clean area right below that - where hot oil has been washing the dirt off as it runs out.
Haven't started on the teardown yet as I'm still trying to get the pilot bearing out. Borrowed the puller from O'Reilly's and it brought the inner shell and broken bearings out, but the cast outer shell remains.
Still working on that.
Once that is done I can put the engine on the stand and start the teardown. Still thinking I'll pull the pan and do the rear main, but I could be talked out of that. Maybe the leak up top has been all of the leak? But, it won't cost much, and......
In the second picture, taken from a bit lower and closer you'll see back past the bottom of the rubber valley gasket. And, in both pictures notice the clean area right below that - where hot oil has been washing the dirt off as it runs out.
Haven't started on the teardown yet as I'm still trying to get the pilot bearing out. Borrowed the puller from O'Reilly's and it brought the inner shell and broken bearings out, but the cast outer shell remains.
Still working on that.Once that is done I can put the engine on the stand and start the teardown. Still thinking I'll pull the pan and do the rear main, but I could be talked out of that. Maybe the leak up top has been all of the leak? But, it won't cost much, and......
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
I'm not sure Gary. That's a small little break, and the oil would still have to make it up and over the valley wall on the back of the block. Even if it was a large leak, I'm not so sure it would be enough to get up over that recessed valley.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Isn't that the valley wall on the back of the block we are looking at? Doesn't the intake seal to the valley wall? That is the intake above.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Shaun - Here's a shot from further out. And I've drawn an arrow showing where the hole is. In fact, if you zoom in closely you'll see a 3" copper wire with 1" protruding. The other 2" is inside the engine - it just eased right on in there with no protest and no bending, which would have happened if it had hit anything since it is copper.
And, for an update, I got the pilot bearing out. Take my word for it, do not try any odd-ball methods of getting one of the needle-bearing pilots out. Use the official pilot bearing puller like I "borrowed" from O'Reilly's. The odd-ball methods broke the bearings and then the puller only got the inner shell. That left the cast outside shell that had to be ground and then broken out. The Dremel did it as I ground almost through with a very narrow pencil-like stone and then broke the shell with a chisel. Left a reminder or two on the crank, but not in critical locations so all is well.
The engine is on the stand and ready to pull apart tomorrow. Got some of the gaskets today and the rest will be in on Friday. Plus I got the Plastigage and will use it to check the mains and rods.
And, for an update, I got the pilot bearing out. Take my word for it, do not try any odd-ball methods of getting one of the needle-bearing pilots out. Use the official pilot bearing puller like I "borrowed" from O'Reilly's. The odd-ball methods broke the bearings and then the puller only got the inner shell. That left the cast outside shell that had to be ground and then broken out. The Dremel did it as I ground almost through with a very narrow pencil-like stone and then broke the shell with a chisel. Left a reminder or two on the crank, but not in critical locations so all is well.
The engine is on the stand and ready to pull apart tomorrow. Got some of the gaskets today and the rest will be in on Friday. Plus I got the Plastigage and will use it to check the mains and rods.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Norman, Ar
Shaun - Here's a shot from further out. And I've drawn an arrow showing where the hole is. In fact, if you zoom in closely you'll see a 3" copper wire with 1" protruding. The other 2" is inside the engine - it just eased right on in there with no protest and no bending, which would have happened if it had hit anything since it is copper.
And, for an update, I got the pilot bearing out. Take my word for it, do not try any odd-ball methods of getting one of the needle-bearing pilots out. Use the official pilot bearing puller like I "borrowed" from O'Reilly's. The odd-ball methods broke the bearings and then the puller only got the inner shell. That left the cast outside shell that had to be ground and then broken out. The Dremel did it as I ground almost through with a very narrow pencil-like stone and then broke the shell with a chisel. Left a reminder or two on the crank, but not in critical locations so all is well.
The engine is on the stand and ready to pull apart tomorrow. Got some of the gaskets today and the rest will be in on Friday. Plus I got the Plastigage and will use it to check the mains and rods.
And, for an update, I got the pilot bearing out. Take my word for it, do not try any odd-ball methods of getting one of the needle-bearing pilots out. Use the official pilot bearing puller like I "borrowed" from O'Reilly's. The odd-ball methods broke the bearings and then the puller only got the inner shell. That left the cast outside shell that had to be ground and then broken out. The Dremel did it as I ground almost through with a very narrow pencil-like stone and then broke the shell with a chisel. Left a reminder or two on the crank, but not in critical locations so all is well.
The engine is on the stand and ready to pull apart tomorrow. Got some of the gaskets today and the rest will be in on Friday. Plus I got the Plastigage and will use it to check the mains and rods.
I have heard some stories about alum intakes on engines.
Also, I had forgotten about pilot bearings vs. pilot bushings. It is not too late for me to be HUMBLE. Sorry, Trav
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
As for the bearing, it wasn't your fault at all. I knew that you thought it was a bushing, but I was too lazy to go get the puller. Shame on me!
All - I wish the camera batteries hadn't failed at the last minute. After I got the engine on the stand I realized I'd forgotten to close the quick-link, one of the screw-together chain links. It was holding the whole engine and is, well, let's just say I'm LUCKY it held. I'll get a shot and show you.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 698
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From: Norman, Ar
Trav - The gaskets will fix it, no prob. Not sure if I'm using gaskets and cement, with a bit of RTV thrown in, or all RTV. Will have to see how everything fits.
As for the bearing, it wasn't your fault at all. I knew that you thought it was a bushing, but I was too lazy to go get the puller. Shame on me!
All - I wish the camera batteries hadn't failed at the last minute. After I got the engine on the stand I realized I'd forgotten to close the quick-link, one of the screw-together chain links. It was holding the whole engine and is, well, let's just say I'm LUCKY it held. I'll get a shot and show you.
As for the bearing, it wasn't your fault at all. I knew that you thought it was a bushing, but I was too lazy to go get the puller. Shame on me!
All - I wish the camera batteries hadn't failed at the last minute. After I got the engine on the stand I realized I'd forgotten to close the quick-link, one of the screw-together chain links. It was holding the whole engine and is, well, let's just say I'm LUCKY it held. I'll get a shot and show you.
I didn't have a good night. AC in house went south.
Went to Wal-Mart and got new window unit. Installed and cool again.
But keeping on track, I did get new belts and hoses on 85.
Haven't messed with clock yet.
Have to go now and get my brother's Dodge 4X4.
He'll have to eat crow cause I'll be hauling it on my trailer with the 76.
Later Dude, Trav
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
Gary, if you look, the whole area under that supposed break in the gasket is a recessed section surrounded by four "walls". Any oil dripping from that spot would just pool up in that area, and I don't believe that leak would give you enough for the oil to puddle over and down the side of the block.
Reason I say this is because of your comment, "Maybe the leak up top has been all of the leak?".
I think along with that leak, your rear oil pan gasket, or your rear main seal are also gone as well.
Reason I say this is because of your comment, "Maybe the leak up top has been all of the leak?".
I think along with that leak, your rear oil pan gasket, or your rear main seal are also gone as well.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Gary, if you look, the whole area under that supposed break in the gasket is a recessed section surrounded by four "walls". Any oil dripping from that spot would just pool up in that area, and I don't believe that leak would give you enough for the oil to puddle over and down the side of the block.
Reason I say this is because of your comment, "Maybe the leak up top has been all of the leak?".
I think along with that leak, your rear oil pan gasket, or your rear main seal are also gone as well.
Reason I say this is because of your comment, "Maybe the leak up top has been all of the leak?".
I think along with that leak, your rear oil pan gasket, or your rear main seal are also gone as well.
I'm still going to replace all the gaskets, though. If that guy did that then what else did he do?
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I'm sure you'll come up with something to seal it.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
FWIW my thinking follows Shaun's, that looks like a break in the casting to me. It will leak at speed because the oil is smashing into the back of the casting as the truck is moving forward faster than the falling oil is.
I'm sure you'll come up with something to seal it.
I'm sure you'll come up with something to seal it.
But, I guess I'm either out in left field or doing a poor job of explaining 'cause it sure looks simple to me. However, we will await tomorrow's revelation!