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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 08:36 PM
  #781  
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I have a 1981, I want to keep the sliders and install power windows and locks. Someday....
 
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 08:38 PM
  #782  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Matthew - You don't know an 80 or 81 with slide locks when you see one.
You're right. Was thinking they were the electric locks but don't those have a different looking slide switch?
 
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Old Oct 14, 2014 | 08:48 PM
  #783  
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The locks have a rocker switch, if I remember correctly. I'll find out one of these days as I'm going with power locks and windows on Dad's, but converting it to pin-style rather than sliding locks. Part of that is because I have really good door panels for the pin-style locks, but Dad's door panels with the sliding locks are not in good shape. And, the passenger-side lock, the broken one in the above pic, is from Dad's, so I'd be short on those as well.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 03:54 PM
  #784  
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Two steps forward and one back is still progress - right?

I did get the passenger's door back together, meaning the window felt attached to the panel, the map pocket installed, the arm rest installed, and the panel and lock bezel installed:




But, when I was stapling the window felt to the driver's door panel I heard a pop and parts went flying.




So, out came the West System epoxy and cleaning supplies. I did it by the book, including the flame step, and here's what it looks like at the moment:




Not sure whether I'll get to it tomorrow as Dad fell and has a hairline crack in his hip. My brother is with him at the hospital and we'll probably go up tomorrow. But, Ill have to come up with another way to retain the felt than stapling.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 10:41 PM
  #785  
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Gary, do you happen to have a instrument cluster bezel with the fog lamp switch to the right of the wiper switch?

If so, could you tell me what the dimensions of the box around the switch is?

I am thinking of mounting two illuminated rocker switches in this area on the replacement bezel I get but I dont know if the rocker switches I am looking at are too big dimension wise to look size correct.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 10:51 PM
  #786  
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No, not only do I not have one I've never seen one other than in pictures. Another rare bezel.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 11:03 PM
  #787  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
No, not only do I not have one I've never seen one other than in pictures. Another rare bezel.
The '80 F150 Ranger at work that we are redoing, it has the bezel with the fog lamp but I dont have access to it to measure the height of the fog lamp cut out. I am starting to think I wont be able to fit two rocker switches in that area nicely when they measure 1" wide by 2" tall.

Did find a nice wood grain instrument cluster bezel without air for a good price, but not sure if I should go for it and cut the vents out and transfer my dealer vents from one bezel to another or if I should just seek out one with dash vents built in. Hate to cut up a bezel for mounting rocker switches on and it might be a rare one someone could use.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2014 | 11:23 PM
  #788  
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Sorry to hear Dad took a tumble Gary.


Have you considered a spray adhesive for the felt like 3M high strength?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 06:26 AM
  #789  
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Rusty - I share the concern about cutting bezels. Around here the majority of trucks had factory air so a non-air bezel is rare. But I'm sure that varies by the area in which you live since CO and AK probably don't have nearly as high percentage of air.

Bruno - Hadn't actually thought about how to secure it, but that sounds like a good idea. Thanks!

As for Dad, he is going to have surgery, and probably today. So we are headed up to Wichita in a bit.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 07:10 AM
  #790  
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Window felt attachment

Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Not sure whether I'll get to it tomorrow as Dad fell and has a hairline crack in his hip. My brother is with him at the hospital and we'll probably go up tomorrow. But, Ill have to come up with another way to retain the felt than stapling.

Gary, I attached the inner anti-rattle strip using aluminum rivets. It worked quite well, was easy and quick.


Just returned from business trip and am very sorry to hear about your father's misfortune. Prayers are being lifted up!
 
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 07:54 AM
  #791  
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Thanks, David. Prayers are appreciated. Dad doesn't understand anything - that he's hurt, that he's in the hospital, or that the people are trying to help him. The hip is broken so he needs to be immobilized, but since he doesn't understand he's hurt he is frustrated. Very. My brother rode in the ambulance with him and said Dad removed the straps on the gurney at least 25 times.

The doctor says there are two approaches to fixing it. A small incision and 3 screws sounds easy, but he then has to be in a wheel chair for 6 weeks. The other approach, replacement of the ball, is more invasive but they have hin up the next day for therapy. So we lean to the latter but the doctor recommends the former. Prayers for the right decision would really be appreciated.

As for the felt, pop rivets are a good idea! Thanks.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 12:34 PM
  #792  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Rusty - I share the concern about cutting bezels. Around here the majority of trucks had factory air so a non-air bezel is rare. But I'm sure that varies by the area in which you live since CO and AK probably don't have nearly as high percentage of air.

Bruno - Hadn't actually thought about how to secure it, but that sounds like a good idea. Thanks!

As for Dad, he is going to have surgery, and probably today. So we are headed up to Wichita in a bit.
Correct, my truck came from Dallas and it had no A/C from the factory but was installed by the dealer. I dont mind reusing my orignal A/C vents but the thing is if I get a wood grain bezel without air then I am weary of cutting it up. I dont want to cut my orignal black mesh weave bezel just to add a toggle switch for my auxiliary lighting. That way if I ever deside to go back I have the orignal.

But all the ones I find online even the black mesh ones they are wanting a pretty penny for them. Cheapest I found was $40 for a wood grain bezel without air. Other than that they were all pushing $100 which I think is insane for a used bezel. But they are pushing that because places like LMC are on back order for their reproduction bezels and have been for a while now.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 12:55 PM
  #793  
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Rusty S,


I believe I have a non-A/C dash which would be the standard black/gray weave if that is what you are looking for. I brought a number of parts to the recent OK GTG and perhaps Gary, Chris or someone else can remember it?


Anyway, let me know if that is what you are seeking and I will double check my items.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 09:22 PM
  #794  
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I know it's just an opinion, but the less invasive surgery is what I would want for my loved ones at that age.


I have witnessed a few people having strokes after total joint replacements.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2014 | 10:07 PM
  #795  
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David and Brandon - Thanks for the suggestions. I do appreciate it.

All - Just back from visiting Dad in the hospital. The surgery will be the least invasive as the doctor pretty well said it has to be that way. The reason is that he has to take the muscle and tendons away from the bone to do the ball replacement surgery and unless the patient follows orders and uses a walker until the muscle and tendons reattach to the ball it will dislocate easily. And Dad has no clue what is going on so won't understand that he has to use the walker. So, the doctor says he will have to use screws to secure the ball, which is the least-invasive surgery. And, while Dad is supposed to stay off of it for 6 weeks the doctor said with Dad's weight (120 lbs) and strong frame he's sure the screws will hold even if he is on it early. So, it should work.

However, they discovered a low grade fever and fear that it could turn into pneumonia if not resolved before the surgery. So they have him on antibiotics and expect to do the surgery early next week.
 
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