Rusty
If the proportioning valve is leaking you would surely see it.
If the rears were that far out of adjustment the springs would force the fluid back towards the reservoir.
To me brakes are more important than anything else on a vehicle.
I'd rather have a leaking fuel line than failed brakes.
Glad you caught it now!
Going to install some nice-to-haves now, like a bumper, grill, etc. Maybe even a glovebox.
About all that is left is to secure the instrument trim panel, install the glove box and trailer hitch, check the trailer wiring harness, wash the windows, and then take it for a longer spin. Maybe next week I can start moving Dad's truck home.
And, I also replaced the right tail light that I broke the other day. I thought No problemo, I have plenty. Well, as it turned out I have one and it was extremely dull. Hmmm, I wonder what Mothers Power Ball and their headlight polishing compound would do. The first pic is before, the 2nd pic is of the right square polished and the left not, and the last one is the whole thing polished. It is much better, but not perfect by any stretch. But, for Rusty it'll do.
Anyway, I got a glove box installed - "a" not "the" as I put a much better one in than the one that came on Rusty. Put the wiper switch in. Cleaned and installed the instrument bezel as well as the tubular trim piece that goes around the steering column. And, as the picture shows, I learned that the tilt wheel columns take a shorter trim piece than the others.
Still need to put the horn pad on and a piece of windshield trim, take the extra tool box off the back, and install the trailer hitch and check out the trailer wiring. Should be able to do that tomorrow as well as take it on a longer test drive. Then I may take it up to see Dad on Tuesday - 250 miles. If it passes that test then it is ready to go get Dad's truck, pulling a trailer.
While doing that I noticed that the ashtray was full, so pulled it out. And, I was surprised what it was full of.
And, how badly it was rusted. So I cleaned it out, primed it, and painted it. I used some high-build primer that I hoped would fill the rust pits, but it didn't work all that well. Anyway, it is far better.Then I moved on to the rear of the truck and checked out the trailer wiring - but someone had cut the plug off although the wiring itself was there. However, there was shaggy electrical tape on the connections to the truck's wiring so I pulled one piece of tape and found a nice soldered joint.
I replaced the tape and then protected the whole connection area with two more layers of tape. And then soldered on a connector and protected those joints with heat shrink tubing. Clipped the test light to it and everything worked - although the turn signals blinked quite rapidly, which I solved later with a HD electronic flasher unit from O'Reilly's.Next I installed the receiver hitch off of Dad's truck on Rusty. Wow, that thing is stout! It has 6 Grade 5 1/2" bolts attaching it to the frame, and drilling those holes was ..... fun.
Chips went everywhere, inc on me. But, it is on and ready to tow.After that I went for a spin - it sure runs good. But, I'm missing the aftermarket temp and volt gauges that I had on Dad's truck as the factory temp gauge is questionable. So, at some point I'm going to install those gauges as I'll go with electrical gauges for Dad's truck. Anyway, I still have some adjusting to do on the LR brake as it is the first to slide. And, I got the wrong speedo gear in as 45 shows as 50. Further, I realized that I don't have a kickdown link for the carb, although the gear lever lets me pull it down if I need to. So, all in all it is very close.
Also, it has been suggested that I Plastidip Rusty. Jon sent me a link to a guy doing that to an Audi - I guess the paint's no good on them: PlastiDip a WHOLE CAR - How-to by DipYourCar.com - YouTube Anyway, I'd not heard of that, but that might be pretty cool for a utility truck. Hit the rusted panels with POR-15 and cover that with Plastidip?

And then my son called from DE. Would you believe it, he's interested in Rusty when I'm through with him?! Thinks he'd like a lift kit and 35's on it to have a balance of off-roading and the ability to drive it on the street. However, I'm leery of that since that would seriously impact on-road handling, and Rusty's isn't the best already as he doesn't have sway bars and does have worn linkage. Further, I'm expecting that 35's would make the effective gearing so high we'd have to change the diff's from 3.50's to 4.10's. Anyway, that is an interesting development.
You've been as busy as a one legged man in a butt-kicking contest..
.Trav.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
But this is a borrowed trailer so I'm not in a position to do that. Will have to make do with a hand winch and a come-along. However, in this case it is just the rolling chassis, probably with the bed on it, and then the rotisserie with the cab on it, so it won't be bad. I hope.
Headed out now to round up the tools and tie-downs and "Hit the Road, Jack". But, as opposed to Jack, I hope to come back. Several times.
The trip is about 15 miles each way, with 10 of that being on the highway. I drove from 55 - 60 and the temp would creep up to the L of NORMAL by the end of that run. But, I don't think it was hot as it never pushed any coolant out at all, so I'm thinking the gauge is faulty. Or maybe the ICVR. However, it dawned on me today that I'm running straight antifreeze - no water. I thought I'd bought the pre-mixed stuff, but it isn't and there isn't a drop of water in it. Would that cause it to run warm on an 80˚ day? I can drain about half of it out and put water in, but I'm wondering if I should go with the aluminum radiator that I had in Dad's truck while doing that.
Also, it isn't idling well. It runs well at anything above idle, but it is progressively getting worse on the idle. After I make the run tomorrow I'll check to see what's going on.







