Rusty
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
I wonder if the compressor is any good? Lets back flush the thing and fill it up. Of course the O rings need to be replaced. I have 10 or 12 cans of 134A at the shop. Sams was selling a case for $54.99 so I bought one and I had a few already. The back flush can be done with rubbing alcohol instead of buying the pricey AC flush. Do the bullnose trucks have a liquid line or do they have an orifice tube? I think I have some of the glow in the dark oil too.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Orifice tube. Not sure when I'll be ready to do the A/C, but I will install it all. However, it won't be with new o-rings, so the joints will need to come back apart, although that's easy.
But, I have no clue if the compressor is any good as there wasn't enough charge in the system when I got it to run, much less cool. Anyway, I'd sure appreciate the help when the time comes.
But, I have no clue if the compressor is any good as there wasn't enough charge in the system when I got it to run, much less cool. Anyway, I'd sure appreciate the help when the time comes.
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
See if you can find a list of the O rings somewhere . Most of the time the parts store employees try to match them up with the old ones and that doesn't always work well. Advanced was trying to charge me like $60 for about $3 worth of O rings and a couple of them weren't the right ones. So maybe if we had some part numbers for the O ring sizes that would take all the guess work out if it.
Do you have a set pf gauges or a vacuum pump? If not I have gauges and I can borrow James' vacuum pump. The vacuum pump is very necessary IMO. With the pump we can pull the system down and let it sit for 30-40 minutes to see if it is holding the pressure and if not we know it's leaking before we throw the expensive refrigerant at it. Nothing like charging 3 or 4 cans in it to find out it's all leaking out.
Do you have a set pf gauges or a vacuum pump? If not I have gauges and I can borrow James' vacuum pump. The vacuum pump is very necessary IMO. With the pump we can pull the system down and let it sit for 30-40 minutes to see if it is holding the pressure and if not we know it's leaking before we throw the expensive refrigerant at it. Nothing like charging 3 or 4 cans in it to find out it's all leaking out.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
I have the gauges, but not a pump. However, I've used a HF compressed-air vacuum pump that worked nicely, so might just get one of those. And, it is absolutely necessary to pull a vacuum and leave it a while since that's what boils off the moisture.
As for the o-rings, I'll check on that when the time gets closer. Good idea.
As for the o-rings, I'll check on that when the time gets closer. Good idea.
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
James has this oil injector that goes on the pick up line of the gauges and it injects the oil into the system as it charges. That way the oil gets everywhere instead of sitting in the bottom of the compressor.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Didn't have much time today as I boxed up a couple of E'brocks, did this and that, and finally got to Rusty. Got the seat belts installed, the fuel lines, and the tranny cooler lines. Which reminded me, Dad's truck had an auxiliary tranny cooler and since the steel lines are cut for the cooler I guess I'll put it on Rusty.
Any way, didn't make much progress but some. Took a lot longer to get the tranny lines on as one of the hangers goes to an engine mount hole and that didn't want to line up. Had to put the tall jack under the engine and loosen the mount bolts to get everything lined up. But, it finally did so tomorrow I'll install a few accessories.
Any way, didn't make much progress but some. Took a lot longer to get the tranny lines on as one of the hangers goes to an engine mount hole and that didn't want to line up. Had to put the tall jack under the engine and loosen the mount bolts to get everything lined up. But, it finally did so tomorrow I'll install a few accessories.
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 698
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From: Norman, Ar
I have the gauges, but not a pump. However, I've used a HF compressed-air vacuum pump that worked nicely, so might just get one of those. And, it is absolutely necessary to pull a vacuum and leave it a while since that's what boils off the moisture.
As for the o-rings, I'll check on that when the time gets closer. Good idea.
As for the o-rings, I'll check on that when the time gets closer. Good idea.
I used a compressed-air vacuum pump on my 85..Worked great..
Pulled down vaccuum and left for 45min to hour...No loss...
New orfice, compressor,dryer, etc..
The O-rings and ALL parts from O'reilly's...Easy change from 12 to 134-A..
I think the O-rings were about 9 or 10 bucks...Came in kit and had all for the Complete system...No Problem..
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 698
Likes: 0
From: Norman, Ar
I had a bad compressor,condenser,evap unit leaking , etc..
Needless to say I am VERY HAPPY with the NEW system...
I just put in the info on their website, shopped till I dropped, printed it out and took my list in and said "Can you fix me up at a reasonable cost?"
After everyone got back up off the floor from laughing, they got my parts..
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
I hope my systems, both Rusty's and Dad's, aren't that bad. Dad's worked about 3 or 4 years ago, but we ran out of R12 substitute and the leaks killed it. Have no idea when the last time was that Rusty's worked.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Got a bit done:
- Vacuum lines hooked up, and a bad vacuum cap replaced that was probably causing problems
- Throttle hooked up
- After-market oil pressure gauge connected
- DS-II connections made
- Alternator and regulator installed - Rusty is getting the new alternator and regulator from Dad's since I'll put a 3G on it
- Battery ground cable hooked up, a new block/frame wire made & installed, and the block/cab ground installed. Can't imagine how the tail lights worked before.
- Regulator & alternator wiring harness changed out
- Solenoid remounted. Can't understand how it had been working as the screws were totally stripped out and it was just hanging there.
- Replaced the hood/cowl seal with garage door seal. (Soooo much easier to do with everything off the front of the truck.)
- Heater hoses installed
- The fuel pressure regulator mounted and connected
- The block & frame grounds, showing the new wire all properly soldered and with the attachment spots thoroughly cleaned and everything anti-seized.
- The old regulator/alternator harness. Note the crimped butt connectors, absolutely a no-no, and whatever kind of connections are in the taped joints. YUK!
- The remounted solenoid and regulator, with the replaced harness
- A shot showing the alternator, cowl seal, heater hoses, etc
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
You are moving right along Gary! Everything looks good too. Glad to see all the jimmy rigged stuff getting replaced . Rusty is getting some upgrades in the form of hand me downs from Dad's truck.