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Yes, I do have one of those - which Bruno got for me IIRC. But you don't want it under the dash. It should be under the hood and close to the battery and headlights to minimize the wiring you are going to have to run. You need a good source of power, and the battery-side solenoid stud is perfect for that. You need to connect to the headlight wiring to trigger the relays, and that wiring is easy to access at the headlight. And you need to wire to the headlights. So a spot on the fender or radiator support would be perfect.
Thats what I will probably do anyways. I do have a tandem stud junction block mounted on the driver side core support. One is ground and the other is hot. What I planned on doing is running a 12Ga wire to the ground cable mounted to the block and run another 12Ga red wire from the other stud terminal to the battery side of the solenoid. This is where my relays was going to receive their power and ground from was this junction block as it would make things neater looking. I was planning on mounting the relays on the driver side but it looks so aftermarket looking if I just used the mounting tabs that is on the relays them self.
My idea is to use the driver side headlight plug as the trigger for the headlight relays. Then the passenger side headlight plug will be used for triggering the other two relays which will send battery voltage to my roll bar lights when I get to that point in my build.
I don't mind the aftermarket look on Rusty. He's pieced together anyway, so that kinda adds to his image - eclectic.
Got a bit more done on him today. Found the vacuum problem going to the AFR meter and fixed it - it was at the hardest spot to get to, as Murphy said it would be. Installed the right tail light lens I got from David to replace the one that was just barely hanging on with no inside screws. And got the driver's door panel cleaned and painted. Here's what the door panel looks like after four coats of SEM Palomino:
LOL! You don't know how appropriate that comment is - Mom was a member of the Brick Collectors Association and had collected brick from all parts of the US as well as several foreign countries. One of my favorite remembrances is from when she came home after visiting us in the UK. She had a suitcase dedicated to the brick she'd collected over there and I'd weighed it very carefully to ensure it was slightly less than the 50 lb max weight for luggage. So when she checked in at Gatwick the lady attendant saw how small the suitcase was and grabbed it to swing it over to the conveyer belt - and it didn't move. She had a guy move it and he didn't get it there with the first attempt. She looked at Mom and said "What do you have in there, bricks?" Mom smiled and said "Yes" and the lady thought she was kidding.
So, why is that comment appropriate? Because my brother recently moved all of Mom's brick. Thousands of them. And he said he had to just move one brick at a time. But he got it done and now has a nice wall in his new cabin made of Mom's brick - all of which have names on them. So it is quite a conversation piece.
To answer Jim's question, posted elsewhere, about how the West System 655K G/Flex Epoxy Adhesive is working, I'd say "very well". It did the job on the top reinforcement, so I used it today to reinforce a crack in one of the map pockets. I cut a piece of scrap ABS plastic into a 4" x 4" piece, scuffed it and the inside of the pocket with 80 grit, slathered the piece with the epoxy, and clamped it with waxed paper under the clamps:
Then I set that aside, to be picked up tomorrow, and started on the passenger's door panel. I did extensive cleaning on it, using every process and chemical that SEM says to use, and it still has chalky-looking spots:
And, after 4 coats of SEM Palomino:
Tomorrow I'll tackle the map pockets, elbow pads, and lock bezels. And then I may write up what I learned as I emailed with SEM, watched their video several times, and think I've got it, got it, don't got it.....
I couldn't figure out what I was looking at for a few seconds. The angle the pic was taken from had me struggling to figure out what exactly I was seeing there, Then it dawned on me they were clamps.
I took the picture and I've had to stop and look at it to figure it out. Poor pic or angle, or something. But, then I decided to include it to see if y'all could figure it out.
Got all the door panel parts done today. Here's what the map pocket looked like after painting it:
Then I turned to the locks:
That left the chrome trim. I cleaned and polished it and then started to install it. But, several of the sheetmetal nuts that go down on the pot metal studs didn't want to take up as the studs have been used several times. So I ran an 8-32 die over them and started the installation over again. But, a couple of those were still mangled and the nuts wouldn't take up. So I ran a 6-32 die over all of them and that worked - all the nuts "took". Here's the back side, with the green circles showing the studs:
And, the front side:
That left the arm rests:
So, tomorrow I hope to put all of the parts together and get the doors back together.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.