I like both of what ya got so far. Maybe start a help me with custom plates name thread or something.

Wow!! that's not even a very good name for the thread to name the plates thread name thing.

Sorry I S--t canned the GF today and kids are gone for the night and I am Home Alone. And maybe just a bit one two many Bourbons.

I really am planning a trip to town tomorrow and will get pic's of the other green thing for you. Ya I know ya heard that before.

 

You s**t canned the gf? Like broke up? And you can never have too many bourbans :P I can start a quick thread i spose. And don't worry if you can't get pics of the other bronco. No biggie.

 

Alright, nother update, i got my intake and carb now so i can start working on that. here they are.
Edelbrock performer 400 intake aluminum.


Carter AFB 4bbl carb.


Parts i got with it

I plan to get the intake "hot tanked" at my local Napa auto parts, and i was told to get a spacer for it as well. Then i have to look into rebuilding the carb possibly, I might just clean it a bit and run it and if i feel it isn't up to snuff then i can pull it off and re-build it.

 

after hot tanking have the manifold checked for warpage..you might have to have the ends milled for a straight..also you can gasket match the ports and clean up the runners a bit for better flow......the carter carb had a lot of problems back in it's day..edlebrock brought the company and has fixed the problems...i would check with them on a rebuild...better safe than sorry...
i use the same manifold..the gasket is a fel-pro 1240 i think..i use a non metal spacer to avoid the heat reaching the carb...hope this helps...

 

You would be amazed what elbow grease and fine grit sand paper does with those manifolds. been working on mine for a while to smooth it a bit then i painted it.

 

Try a product at most any parts store called Aluminum Brightener. From Napa it is Mac's part number 1458. I first started using it on the front wheels of my Logging Truck. Than on all Aluminum wheels. Than on all aluminum. Even the Bikes. Spray on and rinse. Looks better than new. I had just done the wheels on the Bronk in the pic.

 

Ya today, i dropped off the intake, i am going to pick it up tomorrow. Then i got some prices on a spacer for it. But decided i didn't need it and just ordered a gasket and the studs/bolts. I forgot to price up the intake gasket, so tomorrow when i go to pick up the stuff i can get a price. I talked to them about a rebuild kit, it ran around $40+ and for edelbrock it was $55. I don't quite have the funds to afford that. So for now i will try just cleaning the carb with what i have, and put it on the motor. If it leaks and doesn't work then i will swap back to the 2bbl.

ALSO i just heard news that the city next door to mine is putting in an Autozone. This is good cause it is closer than Napa and O'riellys.

 

Thanks for the tip, if the intake doesn't look too good when i get it i will look around for this stuff.

 

I have taken several carbs apart and cleaned them without a kit. Holly's with the cork gasket for the float bowl don't do this well cuz the gasket shrinks and never fits again. But on most if ya are super careful and use like a razor blade to slowly slide under the gasket on one side to get it apart without tearing it to bad has worked for me. Than clean it, Take out the jets ya can With the right screw driver and blow them out the opposite way they would get plugged. Ya don't have to soak them unless they are real bad. Than with a little RTV gasket goop. And I mean just enough to lightly coat the old gasket with a dab more where ya tore it will work for reassembly. Than new base gasket and you are prolly gonna be just fine. As for the spacer under the carb you want to delete? Do Not Do This. Get one somewhere. It don't need to be new. I like ones with the large vacuum port for the power brakes or PCV. And I have had the best running ones with the hot water in and outlets on them to work the best. That may primarily be an FE thing though. But can be done on any. Up here in the frozen north woods it is almost a necessity.

 

you could have it powered coated...cost more than out weighs the constant cleaning

 

I was told by the Napa guy the spacer wasn't needed. I do have a small piece of metal that came with it, but he said those are also pointless. They were made to sort of spread out the heat and that most chevy users used them but they don't really do anything.

 

I wouldn't mind powder coating it but i don't really have the money for that. Since i have left over paint from my track bar, i think it will work. Just as long as i take my time and do it up nice. I have found when i paint i get impatient and rush through the rest. Then it comes out bad. I just have to place my tape on the holes good, and paint even coats.

 

Well I think whoever told ya that is no mechanic. I had T-Shirts made to advertize my chain of three shops I had. They said " You Can Pay Me Now, Or You Can Pay me Later". If ya don't use one now I do think you will before long to get it tuned and to save some gas. Yes it will run without it. But it will run right with it.

 

I see. Well i might swing by O'reillys then and see if it is cheaper. They wanted $21 at Napa for a spacer.

 

Try the Junk yard. Most any 4V should have one. Don't have to be Ford