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Old May 20, 2012 | 10:22 AM
  #346  
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The problem is not sludge; it is coke. Coke is formed when a complex hydrocarbon (like engine oil) is destructively distilled (i.e., "burned" in a low-oxygen environment). The exhaust crossover in the intake manifold heats the manifold enough to coke the oil that gets splashed on the bottom of the manifold.

Coke is a dry, crystalline carbon compound that is very abrasive. When small chunks inevitably fall off the underside of the intake manifold, they enter the oil supply. If they are not effectively filtered out, they will produce severe wear on the bearings and other components that require forced lubrication.

The separate intake/head gaskets in the FelPro #1240 intake gasket set block off the exhaust crossover passages in the middle of the heads. If you use those gaskets, the intake manifold will not have hot exhaust gas flowing through its crossover passage, and you will not have an oil coking problem.

BTW, blocking the exhaust crossover with the FelPro #1240 gaskets is a legitimate high-performance modification (IMO), but I've seen several vehicles that had cold weather driveability problems caused by blocking the exhaust crossover.

Eric (Torque1st) seems to have found a solution to cold weather driveability problems with a blocked exhaust crossover by setting up his air cleaner heat stove to regulate the incoming air temp.


i found this while doing a search in the 335 engine forum for vally pan thought you should read it cause i saw on another thread you wern't going to use a vally pan with your edelbrock intake. i know you live up north so you might want to keep the exhaust crossover. in the end its your call but i belive you can never have to much information.
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 12:24 AM
  #347  
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Originally Posted by Encho
This is good, I read from a wise man which stated once: "he who doesn't use jack-stands is destined to become a jack-stand himself". Now you'll work safer.
Though this is true, i will never fully feel safe under my truck unless it is on all 4 wheels. Even on a lift, i have seen how those can fail and it isn't pretty. But sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.

Originally Posted by udsuth78
The problem is not sludge; it is coke. Coke is formed when a complex hydrocarbon (like engine oil) is destructively distilled (i.e., "burned" in a low-oxygen environment). The exhaust crossover in the intake manifold heats the manifold enough to coke the oil that gets splashed on the bottom of the manifold.

Coke is a dry, crystalline carbon compound that is very abrasive. When small chunks inevitably fall off the underside of the intake manifold, they enter the oil supply. If they are not effectively filtered out, they will produce severe wear on the bearings and other components that require forced lubrication.

The separate intake/head gaskets in the FelPro #1240 intake gasket set block off the exhaust crossover passages in the middle of the heads. If you use those gaskets, the intake manifold will not have hot exhaust gas flowing through its crossover passage, and you will not have an oil coking problem.

BTW, blocking the exhaust crossover with the FelPro #1240 gaskets is a legitimate high-performance modification (IMO), but I've seen several vehicles that had cold weather driveability problems caused by blocking the exhaust crossover.

Eric (Torque1st) seems to have found a solution to cold weather driveability problems with a blocked exhaust crossover by setting up his air cleaner heat stove to regulate the incoming air temp.


i found this while doing a search in the 335 engine forum for vally pan thought you should read it cause i saw on another thread you wern't going to use a vally pan with your edelbrock intake. i know you live up north so you might want to keep the exhaust crossover. in the end its your call but i belive you can never have to much information.
Thanks for information bud, i never even heard of the coking problem. I think i would still go with not using a valley pan (don't hate me ) and for the winter starts, i am already expecting it. I know these things can be a bit of a butthead when they are cold but you have to kind of deal with it i suppose. The only issues i could see with a cold start is annoying my neighbors with my exhaust by holding the gas a bit to keep it going. My neighbor across from me runs a stroked 302 in his drag racing mustang and has nothing but headers so when he starts it it is super loud. He only starts it if he is fixing it or putting it on a trailer but still, if that doesn't bug the neighbors enough to call police then my bronco shouldn't be an issue.

But again thanks for the info, it is something to store away and pass down the line to other youngins.
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 12:41 AM
  #348  
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There is a whole lot of info on this site my young friend. I am nearly 60 an been turning wrenches my whole working life professionally. And seldom a day goes by that I don't learn something new. File it away, Bookmark it or what ever. The info here is like girls, It's all good, just some is better than others.
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 12:56 AM
  #349  
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Haha thats a good one, i will keep that in mind
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 06:42 PM
  #350  
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So here is TGM's new cape...

The blue tarp was just too small and kept caving in, this one is probably about 2 feet bigger all around and fits okish. Being that it is this big there is a lot of slack everywhere, the bungee cords are no longer pulled tight.At first i thought it was fool proof and thought it worked like a charm. Then after putting gas in my moms van i come home to find out the top middle had caught a lot of water and sunk down pulling that front muddle edge down. That almost dumped a bunch of water into the truck. So i devised a plan. I had one of those industrial chip clips that you can clamp to slices of metal together with to weld them, and i clamped the top edge onto the lip of the roof. It seems to be working out pretty well. If it doesn't rain tomorrow and if i can enlist the help of my neighbor i am just going to put the hard top back on till i devise a better plan. A tarp isn't working. Besides that, i went to Harbor Freight to get said tarp (and a pack of 24 AA batteries for $3!!!) and as i left i had to make a U-turn to get back onto the highway. I almost got hit by some Dumba$$ not paying their own attention. Then when i got to the intersection there was an ambulance that was coming from the left side to make a left turn at said intersection. After blairing his horn and letting the sirens go there was still cars flying through the intersection and one almost creamed the ambulance. Oh but the fun doesn't stop there, after that as i was driving down a 6 lane road some kid who was probably driving his moms little car almost merged right into me... I am never driving my moms van in the rain again..
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 07:05 PM
  #351  
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If the tarp don't reach the ground than just fill up milk jugs and laundry soap bottles. Hoot them with a bungee cord and the other to the tarp. If ya do it right the water will run off. The clamps on the windshield frame was a good idea also.
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 08:43 PM
  #352  
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Grab an old steel Rim (a bent, useless one preferably), clean it very well, weld a pipe in the center (4ft maybe?), use it inside the truck as a center pole whenever you park the truck at home, no more tarp caving in full of water.
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 11:15 PM
  #353  
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Originally Posted by Encho
Grab an old steel Rim (a bent, useless one preferably), clean it very well, weld a pipe in the center (4ft maybe?), use it inside the truck as a center pole whenever you park the truck at home, no more tarp caving in full of water.
That would be nice if i had those items... I don't have a bent rim that isn't being used, i also don't have a welder nor do i have any knowledge of how to use one , and i don't have any pipes laying about... Although i get what you're talking about by pushing it up, i just would have to find an old broom stick or something and let it sit up against the sub box. I don't know, i am still planning to put the top back on if i can, i have to find all my bolts and the new clips and make sure they are all going to work. I just got the new top 5 long bolts that i had to re order due to the other one not being fully threaded. I didn't even think about it till about a week ago.
 
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Old May 21, 2012 | 11:34 PM
  #354  
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Lay an old 2X4 or some other plank from the windshield to the tail gate than use the water filled jugs and a bunch of bungees. It's easy, It's fast and cheap. Three things I live for. Well three of four, but I would have to go to the Club FTE to tell ya about the fourth.
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 12:04 AM
  #355  
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Not a bad idea... I think. But anyways, i might have to try it in the future. So are you talking about putting a board from the lip on the roof down at an angle to the tailgate? Then you lay the tarp over it and lay the milk jugs on it. There are a few issues with that... One i gotta find a board long enough, i might have something but i don't know if pallets are long enough.
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 12:21 AM
  #356  
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Originally Posted by arctic y block
...It's easy, It's fast and cheap. Three things I live for.
Lol I hope you don't apply this when you pick a girl .
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 01:22 AM
  #357  
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Haa!! Encho you funny. Dat's cool I like to laugh. Yes Dylan just hang the water jugs off the tarp from the tie down holes with short bungee's. That holds the tarp very tight. Some bungee's on the fender lip and springs and where ever. Try to fill every hole in the tarp with a jug or tied down to the truck. With the plank it will even hold a lot of snow. When ya want to run it just pull the tarp off the front if ya are going to back out than hit the road.

I had Napa order the premium timing set and gaskets today for The Bronk. I just hope that there is not a custom after market set that would be better. I posted my need in the engine forum but I guess they are all to busy or don't have time or something. Anything much after 1980 is to new school for me with all the smog stuff inside and out. And don't even try to help me understand fuel injection on a gas engine. Way over my head.
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 10:08 AM
  #358  
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Originally Posted by arctic y block
I had Napa order the premium timing set and gaskets today for The Bronk. I just hope that there is not a custom after market set that would be better. I posted my need in the engine forum but I guess they are all to busy or don't have time or something. Anything much after 1980 is to new school for me with all the smog stuff inside and out. And don't even try to help me understand fuel injection on a gas engine. Way over my head.
Not sure on your Bronco but is that a single or double roller chain? On the 2000 Explorer 5.0 I'm building for my 68 Mustang I was pleasanatly surprised to find the stock replacement is a double roller chain and its only like $27. Don't know if you could run that set-up on the Bronco or not.

I felt a little overwhelmed when I first got the motor and it had all this "shi-tuff" on it, but once I started wrenching and taking that all off Its a plain old 302. I hate anything I can't work on and these new cars are way over my head in some areas.

Dylan, after having my bikin top on the Zebra for so long I don't think I could ever go back to a regular hardtop, its so much more fun to have the wind blowing around as you blast Springsteen going down the road!
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 11:26 AM
  #359  
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The set I am getting is double roller. And something about a degreed cam gear he could not explain. I think I know what it is and can make it work. $27 bucks? Shipping on mine alone is over $30. I bought it seat fare on the jet so I could have it here by the weekend.

Today I will work on the back window and try and adjust the metering rods on the Edelbrock. Another thing I posted in the engine forum and never got any answer on.
 
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Old May 22, 2012 | 12:07 PM
  #360  
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The engine forums don't get much traffic. There are some great guys in there, jsut don't expect anything answered in a hurry.
 
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