Maybe ill do that. I just know my bronco is going to see a lot of mud and the wrap starts looking kind of rough. Either way... maybe ill see about getting another paint for them. Ill let you guys know. TGM needs headers too. If I find some stainless for a decent price then maybe ill send them to someone else.

 

I don't mine a bit of flaking paint I have a local ceramic shop that does headers and i could see what they charge. If not that i know someone who has a self-built baking oven for powder coating and would only charge me the price of the powder. Also in terms of cutting the fender would i have to even with 3 inches of bod lift? I saw a 78-79 bronco at my local junkyard that they were going to get running and put on their sales lot that had headers but it was a 460. Yes yes i wish i could have it too but at 3k i don't plan to look far into it. Plus this place is known for covering up ticks and knocks with sawdust or honeyoil. As for my intake situation i was poking around and there was no broncos close to my year, besides about 83. I did find a 76 f-series that looked like it had a 4bbl, i just don't know if it would be compatible. Here are the pictures i got, i don't know if you guys could tell or not. I also planned on asking my neighbor cause the JY wants to charge me $75-100 for an intake.




It looks pretty beat up but i'm sure after a good cleaning and some green paint i could make it awesome.

 

That's an FE motor. Its probably either a 360 or 390. Look at how the edges of the intake go under the valve covers then look at your's. That's probably the easiest way to tell.

Sorry man...

 

Thanks Justin, i'm not beat up about it. It's a JY part so i don't think it had a lot of life left. I did find it odd that i didn't see bolts on the edges, Had i gone and spent the money and time to pull it only to find out it isn't right, then i would be a bit more angry.

 

I am going to the JY this coming weekend. I'll look for you. I have a friend there that usually gives me a pretty good hook up. I'm looking for 3/4 ton front outers and a 10.25 rear. If I find anything decent, I'll let you know.

 

Cool beans man, thanks. I have a friend who works at this JY but he doesn't even get a discount and the guys that run the registers will charge as much as they can for stuff. I figured with the conditions of the part if it looked in bad shape i could get a better price.

 

That kind of sucks man.. I'm in west Texas where everyone is a good ole boy and people make all kinds of deals under the table. I don't even pay full price at the parts stores. I usually get the employee discount just because they wanna help out a little. I guess we got it pretty good here...

edit: I got a camper shell with sliding windows for my '80 at the jy .It cost me a 30 pack of bud light

 

I wish they would do that here but they won't.. When shucks was shucks i used to get 10% off with a military discount but not anymore. I only get a certain percent off the total price of the item... It sucks but what can you do. From what i learned via visiting family, the people up here are a lot more road friendly and usually drive under the speed limit. Nobody has an opinion either so if they don't like something they say, whatever and move on.

 

I try to get as much as I can from my local advance. I'm in there so much that I usually always get an employee discount if not more depending on what all I buy. Being good friends with them doesn't hurt either. Unfortunately I don't really have many junkyards around here.

I did see a guy seeling an SP2P edelbrock intake for your truck in the classifieds but he wanted way too much for it IMHO so I didn't link it to you. Plus that intake is sometimes frowned upon.

 

Thanks for the heads up Brett, i am hoping if i find one it won't cost me an arm and a leg.

As an update, today i had made plans to go with a friend to pick a tailgate off an 88 in our local JY BUT i never heard back from the guy... Since today was sunny i decided to throw up the hood on TGM and poke around, i found out that most of my valve cover bolts were loose but not finger loose. So i tightened them down a bit, then topped off my PS fluid, i now have a leak somewhere in the hoses... And i pulled my window washer reservoir out and cleaned it up, found out i have no voltage coming from the wires to the little pump so that mystery is somewhat solved. Then i went and cleaned my windshield and RainX'ed it along with the back window. While i was poking around on the engine i played with the choke thermostat and moved it around, and when i opened the choke flap and looked in the carb, those circle looking things were wet. I hadn't driven it or hit the gas all day so i don't know why it's wet unless thats oil. I also noticed lately that the filter container for my custom inline filter (walmart special) was almost dry where as normally it would be full of fuel. One of those things i guess.

Another update thing, on April 7th, TGM becomes a man and is getting a hitch installed I set an appointment with U-haul to put a class 3 on. It will run me about $204 for the hitch and installation. Then it is off to walmart to look at a drop tounge with a ball and the wiring harness. The harness i will need your guyses help with, do i just cut the brake light wiring and tie in the wiring for the trailer lights? if i did that wouldn't it cause my brake lights to dim when i use them?

And finally, i have these pictures:


Does it look like anything would be in the way of fender exit headers? Or do you think regular longtubes would be a better choice? The second picture shows the bottom of my manifold, driverside. I figured if they fit on this side the passenger won't be a problem

 

Personally I would just go chassis exit headers to avoid any problems all together. No real advantage to fenderwell exit that I can think of.

At least you have a motor on your washer fluid tank! I've been surprised how many bolts were loose on my Mustang, if TGM is like my car then that should take care of most of the small leaks.

 

Now if i go with chassis exit, (longtubes?) would i still be able to do side exit behind my doors? That was one of my concerns with that style. I didn't want to go all the way back

Also, there is a lot of loose bolts on TGM but i am not sure on how well it will stop the leaks. As of now the only leaking is coming from the PS pump assembly, i haven't bothered to locate the leak yet. As for oil, it isn't leaking cause there isn't enough in the engine to leak... I know that sounds bad but it is probably 1-1 1/2 quarts low i think, next time i am at the store if i can remember i need to pick up more but it doesn't seem to hurt it.

 

I have chassis exit long tubes. I can snap a picture or two or maybe even send you a video of my exhaust if you would like. Mine exits right in front of the rear passenger tire.

 

I wouldn't mind that, mine exit on both sides behind the doors in front of the tires:

You can kind of see them. If i did chassis exit how would the piping work?

 

Well yous have to run the pipe under the frame to do that side exit but its nothing to worry about. Short of rock crawling I don't see you getting high centered and smashing it.