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If you do some of the mods in the article i posted (i would be amazed if i could get such performance out of my engine for that amount of $$$) you will be at around 12mpg or more, I'm pretty sure of that. The engine will be at it sweet spot way lower in the RPM range hence you won't be steping on it. I would specially consider a proper timing chain since the original ones have retarded timing for smog reasons and that's what really kill these engine's performance.
Though i would love to do all of that, i unfortunately can't... I don't really have the funds. Eventually i want to have the motor completely rebuilt and upgraded but that will be a while down the road.
If you do some of the mods in the article i posted (i would be amazed if i could get such performance out of my engine for that amount of $$$) you will be at around 12mpg or more, I'm pretty sure of that. The engine will be at it sweet spot way lower in the RPM range hence you won't be steping on it. I would specially consider a proper timing chain since the original ones have retarded timing for smog reasons and that's what really kill these engine's performance.
Encho, I really think that was to improve torque in low, low low RPM range in expense for higher RPM horsepower loss. If you punch the numbers you gain like 4-8 ft' lbs in the low RPM range theoretically for a loss of about 10-20hp in the 2500+ range for retarding the chain.. again, this was apparently to improve MPG slightly for truck-like situations.
Doesn't help a ton with a 70mph interstate speed running, what, 2500RPMs with no overdrive? but for city driving and old speed limits it was ideal.
I wish I had all my white papers on this stuff.. I know TGM isn't ready for a $10,000 dream rebuild, but still, there's a lot of really cool stuff about the 400s most people don't know
So i decided to finally clean up my tans fluid mess from the rebuild... That was the easy stuff. I also went to check out why neither my stock or aftermarket temp gauge are no longer working. Now the aftermarket has a wire type thing inside of a long spring insulator that runs to what i assume is the thermo housing. Then i have another doohicky where the top hose sits on the block...
This is the doohicky on the top, there is a plug like thing in the picture that looks like it could have come off there and i think it ties into the wiring harness. Could this be for the OEM temp gauge?
This is the aftermarket wire thing with the spring insulator thing to. It goes form there all the way to the gauge itself, i don't know if that is the stock placement for the gauge wire or is this is all bullwacky but i wouldn't mind some assistance.
Well guys the tally has been counted, looks like we were all off by quite a lot...
Red box total mpg. This pretty much makes me think that if i were to drive like i was trying to conserve fuel i might get about 5 1/2 or so. The way i got that was taking the top number subtracted by the middle number which got 34 then took 34 and divided it by the gallons from today to top it off, 7.740 and got that.
If you didn't top the tank the first time you filled up that measure won't be accurate, i explained it with an example on another thread you posted this info. That's some very lousy mileage, you should be seeing at least 9-10 MPG.
I thought I posted? whatever.. yeah man, I couldn't have got 5mpg in my truck with the 400 if I had tried. It's either crazy inaccurate, or you have something set wrong (accelerator pump man, accelerator pump!)
If you didn't top the tank the first time you filled up that measure won't be accurate, i explained it with an example on another thread you posted this info. That's some very lousy mileage, you should be seeing at least 9-10 MPG.
Yes you did post and i read it, i doubt though i could get 9-10 with my setup.
Originally Posted by ErrorS
I thought I posted? whatever.. yeah man, I couldn't have got 5mpg in my truck with the 400 if I had tried. It's either crazy inaccurate, or you have something set wrong (accelerator pump man, accelerator pump!)
You did as well post and i did as well read it. Once again though i dunno what or where the accelerator pump is.
Originally Posted by justin Wallace
Did you get the mileage from your odometer? If so, the 35" tires will be telling you that you didn't go as far. (less mileage)
By the way, I am going to subscribe to your thread. I'm in the process of doing my 78 rebuild. I am very interested to see your rig grow!
Thanks for the subbing i will do the same if you have a build thread. My thread moves slow and usually contains small things like cleaning or wiring or something. I haven't done too much big things yet save for the tranny rebuild and the track bar.
no, not complaining you didn't reply.. I had posted something and it disappeared!
The accelerator pump is on the front of your carb, there is a linkage on it. Every time you hit your throttle it squirts a bit of gas directly into the bores. The linkage can be adjusted to lean it or enrich it.
As far as i know it is stock. I think it might be the 2100 but i don't know how to verify. I also did figure out what the acc pump was but i haven't looked at adjusting it yet. Are they easy to rebuild? Would i need any special tools and is there anything i need to watch out for when doing this? Also do you think the accelerator pump would come with a rebuild kit?
Rebuild kits are super cheap. Heck even the Edelbrock rebuild kit is only like $30-$35. If you plan on a new 4 bbl intake like the Performer 400 (i had one) then I wouldn't bother rebuilding your current carb. Tho it would make for good practice if you buy a used 4 bbl...