The last time I bought the valley pan gasket it had to be bought separate, an it has the intake gasket as part of it, I just use some rtv on the ports as extra insurance. you dont use any other gaskets with it. It will be a little more clear when you get one.

 

Oooh ok i see what you mean... the gaskets are pretty much one whole pan. Interesting.

 

it is very easy to do..i will give you the gasket number you need..and try to post the torque specs later..off to my rehab..

 

By gasket number you mean a part number? That would work. Thanks

 

the gasket set # is the part number...ie..fel-pro 1240 here is what the front of the intake looks like with the silicone gasket material..( the right stuff ) lay a bead about 3/16 thick in a bead across the front of the block and the rear of the block where the intake sits..also put some on the edges and up the side of the gasket on the head..let me know if you need more information

 

Thanks again Outlaw, the info is nice. I posting on your build thread with a link to the part number. It doesn't seem to come with a valley pan. I also had asked if you have any pictures of the silicon you used, i am better at finding it if i know the colors and design of the tube rather than a name and part number.

 

Oh and as an update, i kind of got sidetracked today, i was looking at a catalog for Harbor Freight Tools and saw a set of 2 jack stands for $15.99 that i couldn't resist. We have 2 jack stand in my garage, one is big enough to set my broncos axle on without extending it and the other is small enough to set the bronco's axle on if i had it sitting on some wood and fully extended. So i bit the bullet and went up to the new store near by and picked a set of 2 up along with a box of 100 Nitrile gloves for a total of about $27. Then i went to CarToys down the street to see if they could get me the size of the dash speaker i have. Mine is blown out. They told me they couldn't get any of those due to them being oddly shaped and they wouldn't even look up the size. Then the guy told me i should just put door speakers in, 6-6.5 speakers should work and they are only $50-200 dollars.. Only. Then once i was done talking to him some other rep there started going on about a financing plan to get a loan and blah blah blah. I figured once i heard $50 for 2 speakers i was done. No way i plan to pay for it so i left, i figure i can do door speakers but i will have to find some cheaper ones. Walmart usually has cheap ones but i was thinking about finding someone on CL with a set of Cabinet speakers, good quality and good sound. I run 2 4" ones between the front and back seats now and they do pretty well.

Anywho i figured i would wait to run to Autozone till Outlaw here had found that part number. It would help more going in with the number for what i want vs searching 20 items for it.

 

i posted the numbers and more information..the part 1240 from auto zone is correct..

 

Yeah thanks, sorry about all the newbie questions, i just want all the right info before i start

 

the right stuff..it's a black tube with the name in white letters or red..i thru mine away..but auto zone carries it...
no question is wrong..i help when i can

just remember to have the head surface clean..after getting all the junk off it..clean it with a razor..then wipe it down with alcohol..let it dry..test fit the gasket and intake..this will show you the gap...remove the intake, put the bead of silicone..and install the intake and tighten the bolts..there is a sequence to do this..make sure you do it in sequence..look at the manuals for proper sequence..

 

I have always used some kind of a gasket on the front and back. Cork, rubber, something.I use RTV on one side and one side only and a dab in the corners. If ya ever have to take it back off and clean everything back up i was always glade I did. It takes a little more work to install the gasket I know. And all kits I have seen come with the valley and end gaskets.

 

So when i am cleaning the heads and stuff, how do i prevent crap from falling into the heads? I figured i could put rags in the ports unless there is an easier way.
Yeah, i don't have very good luck with cork gaskets, they break pretty quick on my stuff. we used one on the valve cover for my 200 I6 in my mustang and as soon as we started tightening the bolts, they popped and broke around the bolts so it still leaked a tiny bit of oil...

 

you can put paper towels in the intake ports.....won't hurt anything....don't use a wire brush....blow the heads clean..same with the intake runners..wipe it down with alcohol..let it dry...and then go for it..first time is always the hardest....
there are videos on you tube that show some of this..
the reason for the silicone on the block..a used manifold may have been machine..the silicone just gives a better seal..if there is a leak the front or back of the block is where it usually is....
you do OK

 

Alright. Well when i get there i will have to take my time and make sure it is done correctly. And conveniently i have a bottle of 50% rubbing alcohol. It should be easy peas.

 

This is good, I read from a wise man which stated once: "he who doesn't use jack-stands is destined to become a jack-stand himself". Now you'll work safer.