Maybe some day in the future i will get a 4bbl set up but i think i might go and rebuild this one, i just am not sure what to ask for at the parts store, this is what i have

I says MotorCraft on it but i don't know if is a 2100 it has this little stamped circle under the throttle linkage here

Does that really matter? Also in the top section where the top meets the body (i think thats what it is called) it looks like there would be a gasket there and there probably is but there also seems to be a sappy type material coming out of it... I don't know but if anyone has pictures or something of how this carb comes apart and how long it might take to rebuild it i would be very appreciative. I might not be working till after June 10th when i come back from north carolina so i have some time.

 

I didn't know you were rocking a 2 barrel. That might explain your fuel mileage issues. 4 barrels always get better mileage as long as you can keep your foot out of it.

You could get a 4 barrel setup pretty cheap if you shop around. I did it on my last truck for about $100. That doesn't include the Carb rebuild and gaskets though.

 

Ya i might have a deal from a fellow FTEer if i can get a price from him but i don't know about the intake yet. I planned on doing a 4bbl conversion eventually. Also as far as i know this is the stock 2bbl from 78. I am kind of in a debate though i have one person saying these 2100's are the best and really good carbs but another guy saying a 4bbl is better... What do??

 

I know you are on a budget and can't just rip it all apart for weeks at a time like I have. If I was in your position, I would do some shopping online or at a junkyard for a cheap 4 bbl intake. You can buy a 2bbl adaptor to use with your stock carb until you get the money for a good holley 650 or something similar. I can get a 4 bbl intake from the junkyard for $25 if I pull it myself. Next, do a thorough cleaning, maybe paint it, them another 30$ for a new valley pan/intake manifold, 6$ for some rtv then another 20$ for the 2 bbl adaptor. That's about $80 unless you can hold out and get it all at once. Lots of elbow grease but totally worth it for TGM.

 

That isn't a bad idea there, my only concern is finding the right intake from the local JY. They don't have much to choose from and i don't want to buy the wrong one. I also don't know much about them so i don't know if i need to look for anything in particular. Is there a way to check for cracks without taking it to someone? These junk yard parts have been sitting for quite some time so i don't know if i can trust them to be solid. But i can poke around and see what is there.

I think the next big spend might be getting a towing hitch put on, i am tired of situations where having a towing setup on TGM would help me in some way, i just have to see how much it will cost me at the local U-haul shop.

 

This might or might not help you but when you are looking under the hoods at the jy, just remember that on all the FE motors (360, 390), the intake manifold can not be removed without pulling off the valve covers. It may save you a little time when you are out popping hoods and stuff. Most of the trucks you look at will have either the M motor or an fe. There may be a few 460's in the mix. If that's the case, just buy the whole motor!!!

 

Wanna buy my edelbrock performer aluminum 4 port? It sat for a year, then sat in my garage.. will need cleaned up but I'm pretty sure it isn't broken in any way. $60 shipped and if you find out it's cracked or pitted too badly, I'll refund your money. I think it even has a 2bbl adapter on it right now.

that's of course if you can't find one cheaper at a junkyard.

and 2100s are great, GREAT carbs, especially for a 2barrel, but I'd still rather have an 4bbl personally. pretty sure all of us 400 guys go with Edelbrock over Holley for carbs, either a 650 or 700.

Keep in mind these aren't the biggest breathing motors in the world. Another 200CFM wont hurt anything, but you might not see the gains you would on something like a 351w or a 460. Both those motors need to breath because all of their power is in mid-low to mid range, all of the 400s power is low in the band.



in regards to rebuilding the 2100 (yours looks like the 2100, exactly like mine) I'll try to get you a site later but it's pretty dang easy. I'd say an hour to take apart and put together for someone experienced?
Took me 3 the first time I did it, I left off the needle valve, then had to pull it, figure out what I did wrong and put it all back together again.

Sappy stuff coming out might be gas getting through? I don't know.

 

here are two sites for rebuilding the carb:

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech..._2150_carb.pdf
Autolite 2100 Carburetor Rebuild

I'll tell ya, there's nothing better for learning how to tune a carb than to take one apart to see how it works.. the rebuild kit will only be about $20, but you're going to want some good cleaner.
They sell these big cans of cleaner that you dip your carb into and soak it, or other parts, it comes with a basket? They're pretty awesome for making cleaning parts easy.. that's about $20 too though. You can make do with a brush and a can of carb cleaner as well

Stay in a well ventilated place.. I made myself sick rebuilding mine in my bedroom

 

Thanks, i will have to see what the jy has for me at some point. As for the sappy stuff, i didn't know gas could go that... I'm not sure.

Thanks also for the websites, i will keep them bookmarked for when the time comes to rebuild it. I will also probably be rebuilding it in my garage where ventilation isn't an issue. Plus i have a nice stereo in there to jam out to while fumbling about. Of course i will have to wait a while before i can buy the stuff, i think after i get paid on friday i will check into getting a hitch put on then i can deal with the carb. Do you guys think either Napa or Oreilly parts stores has the 2bbl adapter plate? I haven't ever looked for one so they might.

Thanks again for the support and as usual i will prove pictures of what i am doing for the forums

 

I know the O'reilly's here and all the Autozones have the 2bbl adapters on hand. On my 390 in my f100, I used the 2bbl adaptor on my new intake until I could afford a new 650 cfm. It really seemed like the Edelbrock performer intake with the same old carb woke it up a bit. I got worse gas mileage though because like you, I enjoyed the roar. On a bad day I got about 7-8 mpg. When I got the new 650 carb, my mileage probably raised by 2-2.5 mpg. The highway on ramps were the funnest though. That is where it really showed the power difference when you upon up the secondaries.

I'm sure you probably already know this but the 4bbl gets better mileage because the primaries are smaller than the 2bbl primaries. I have a spare 4bbl carb but its an Edelbrock 1407 750 cfm. I don't think it will work very well with a 400 and would always need to be tweaked to make it run right.

 

I'm not sure about out parts stores but i'm sure they could order one if need be. However i don't have an Autozone

Also i did not know that about 4bbl, i had heard they get better mileage cause they act like a 2bbl till you get into it when all 4 open. I don't know much about them or any carb system at that, i just know basic care and tuning. I have to practice more with it to learn how to get the precision tuning down.

 

So i was looking around for some headers for a possible future buy. I found these which seem like they are good for my budget and look like their good quality, what do you guys think?
Summit Racing Headers Full-Length Painted 1 5/8" Primaries G9034 | eBay
Problem is i don't know if i will run into problems having them installed. I have the quad shock setup and as far as i can tell these are fender exit but won't these hit the rear shock mounts on the front quads? If i can buy these and the mufflers i want it will only run me around $150-175 to do the piping which is good news to me. If anyone as any knowledge or concerns they could tell me i would be very appreciative.

 

I just put my headers back on yesterday. If I wasn't on a budget then I would have thrown them in the trash. I have having headers that are less than a month old and they are already rusted. The paint was flaking off like crazy in my face every time I touched them. I will NEVER have another set of painted headers. I will save the money and get stainless or ceramic coated.

If you are all about function over appearance then those would work pretty well. I just hate having something brand new that's as rusty as mine got.

 

Buy some heat wrap and put on those puppies!

 

I have had luck sanding the painted headers down and using a few coats of good header paint by Duplicolor.

I was looking into Fenderwell exit headers when I had my 78. i believe you have to cut out the fendewell (duh) but I don't remember seeing any fitment issues with dual shocks as the extra shock is forward of the main.